I think you’re in the wrong section. Looks like you have TJ? SYE are not done on JKs. See if a mod can move this question


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NickPapa, I'm currently researching what lift kit I want to install on my 97 and I come across so many mixed answers to this question. Some manufactuers websites say Yes while other say No, I havent been able to get a straight answer either.

 

The straight answer is that on a SWB TJ like you have, 4" and taller is when you need a SYE kit to be installed into the transfer case and a CV driveshaft.

The only people who will say you don't need one are salespeople trying to sell you a 4" lift and they're afraid you won't buy the 4" lift if you are also told you need a SYE and CV driveshaft.

 

The straight answer is that on a SWB TJ like you have, 4" and taller is when you need a SYE kit to be installed into the transfer case and a CV driveshaft.

x2.

also, if you are looking to spend $3k on a lift, there are much better options than a tera flex long arm kit

 

recommended, yes
along with a driveshaft and rear lower control arms
this is why some people use a COMBO lift to get 4"

but depends on vibration what you are willing to do,
to correct your drive shaft angle
MML, trans drop,

IMHO I would not use a long arm kit, look at a hybrid mid arm kit or go short

im using a JB conversions super short kit and woods drive shaft but there are other options out there

 

So anything 4" and up should have a SYE. Copy that. Now I see you guys mention Teraflex and Currie, but I would imagine the answer still applies even to those looking to go with Rough Country,ProComp,Zone or Rubicon Express kits too correct? The other brand are a bit out of my budget.

 

Yes, you want a SYE and CV driveshaft for whatever 4" kit you install. Of those less expensive kits you mention, I'd focus in on the Zone. Is the recommended Currie really that much more expensive than the non-recommended Teraflex long-arm kit you said you were interested in?

If $$$ is that tight take a look at Zone's 4" kit that gets its 4" designation from the combination of a 3" suspension lift and 1" body lift. You can avoid the SYE kit though you would also need to install a 1" taller motor mount lift kit which will help reduce the drivetrain angles so the SYE isn't needed. You may also need to install a bit of a t-case drop in addition to the 1" taller motor mounts to eliminate the vibes caused by a 3" suspension lift.

 

If your budget is tight Ive done a hack and tap on my TJ and a buddies XJ. Both have come out great and havent had an issue. Some people talk bad about a h&t but done properly I think its better than many give it credit for.

 

Agreed. Hack & tap kits work very well and they're definitely less expensive to buy and easier to install than a SYE kit is.

 

And I don't know about you Jerry but I'm not the best at drinking a centered hole.I bought the sleeve that slips onto the output shaft and assures a centured hole.But you could just use the flange to guide you

 

And I don't know about you Jerry but I'm not the best at drilling a centered hole.I bought the sleeve that slips onto the output shaft and assures a centered hole.But you could just use the flange to guide you

The bolt hole doesn't need to be perfectly centered, it just has to be good enough so it can be threaded in through the yoke's mounting hole. That bolt only has to hold the yoke on. The H&T yoke is splined so it self-centers tightly and perfectly around the splined tcase output shaft so it will always spin perfectly true even if its mounting bolt isn't perfectly true. It's a pretty genius design that makes its installation hard to screw up.

 

....drinking a centered hole.....

Freudian slip?

 

Oh boy,lol,Im not even going to edit that,now thats funny.

 

Good info thanks all

 

I had a 4" lift installed at a local shop. They told me that if I get a 1" transfer case drop I won't need a SYE. Turned out that my jeep is fussy, and I was getting a bad vibration. When I had them take another look at it, they said that it's not usually needed, but in this case since they told me I didn't need one, and I actually do, they ate the cost of it 100%.
If I were doing it again, I'd just get one installed and not have to deal with any headaches.

 

I had a 4" lift installed at a local shop. They told me that if I get a 1" transfer case drop I won't need a SYE. Turned out that my jeep is fussy, and I was getting a bad vibration. When I had them take another look at it, they said that it's not usually needed, but in this case since they told me I didn't need one, and I actually do, they ate the cost of it 100.

ANY shop that tells someone a 1" tcase drop is usually enough to prevent vibrations from a 4" suspension lift just doesn't know what they're talking about. A 1" tcase drop by itself is not usually enough for even a 3" suspension lift. And what exactly are they providing for that extra $100??? $100 won't get you a SYE and CV installed.

Dishonest shops will seldom tell a prospective buyer of a 4" suspension lift they'll end up needing a SYE and CV driveshaft to be installed. As said above, they're afraid to include all of the true costs of a 4" suspension lift because many customers would back out of the 4" SL purchase.

Only the longer wheelbase LJ Unlimited can get away with a 4" suspension lift without a SYE and CV driveshaft but even they generally need a tcase drop.

 

Edit: Deleted.

 

Recommended CV driveshaft

Jerry, what CV driveshaft would you recommend? Trying not to spend 700 on a driveshaft, but for every 4 comments lauding a driveshaft in the 350-400 range, there's one that says it blew up after no time at all. Would you say that is more due to a poor installation job or should I be wary of CV shafts in that range?

 

Jerry, what CV driveshaft would you recommend? Trying not to spend 700 on a driveshaft, but for every 4 comments lauding a driveshaft in the 350-400 range, there's one that says it blew up after no time at all. Would you say that is more due to a poor installation job or should I be wary of CV shafts in that range?

Tom Wood or Adam's drive shaft...

 

Too many CV driveshafts are installed by those who have no clue how to properly change the rear axle's pinion angle to meet the different pinion angle requirement of the CV joint. That causes vibrations in the u-joints in the driveshaft which can destroy them, not to mention seals and bearings in the axle and tcase. A decent quality CV driveshaft should last a long time when the pinion angle is correct. Adjustable length rear control arms are required to make that happen.

Take a look at Tom Wood's CV driveshaft and SYE kit, he's really a good guy who provides unsurpassed pre-sale and post-sale support. Ask for Tom directly, say I sent you if someone else answers. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

 

Too many CV driveshafts are installed by those who have no clue how to properly change the rear axle's pinion angle to meet the different pinion angle requirement of the CV joint.[/url]

Thanks, I had a feeling that was likely the case. The kit I got does have adjustable CAs, and I bought a SYE from RC already--I know you get what you pay for, but I ain't exactly rolling in it as an E4, haha. I'll give Tom a look on that one.

Side note, any tips on getting a stubborn pitman arm off? I tried using my man-muscles and only succeeded in flattening the press screw and bending one of the puller arms.