I just did something similar in my sound bar, with polk 6.5 speakers
I saw it on you tube, stuffed poly in the sound bar, without it my bar sounded hollow and the bass made the things inside rattle (even with protective baffle which did nothing for the sound of my speakers)

so I filled the area in the bar around each speaker with poly almost to dome light (1/4 of cubic foot) then installed speakers with baffle to protect them.

In my jeep it help a lot and I think its worth the $3 I spent on the poly fill !

 

Interesting.... I just installed polk 6 1/2" compoments in my pods.... no baffle and no polyfill and ithey sound amazing... no rattles and very clear sounding.... i had to cut the speaker mounting tabs back to get em under the stock grills and I found that I could turn the crossovers just right and snap them very tightly into the outer edges of the pods

 

Polyfill is a standard part of a good speaker enclosure. But buy it from a fabric or yardage store, not from a car audio retailer who charges 10X as much for the exact same thing. Fabric & yardage stores sell it as pillow stuffing material, there is no difference between it and the expensive polyfill sold by audio retailers.

 

It just occurred to me.... I have a hardtop with a boom mat headliner.. the headliner is 1" thick and goes about 3/4" under the speaker pod so may dampen resonance.... a bit of a long shot bit may explain my different results...

 

Thanks guys. Sounds like I need to put some polyfil in just in case so I don't have to pull the speakers and do it later.

Gottagofast and wanab offroad, I wonder if the difference in the speaker bar and the speaker pods contributed to the difference in the results you guys had too?

BTW, I'm putting the same Polk DB522's (with Nalin adapters and boom mats) in the dash too. When I bought my Jeep, it had a Kenwood Bluetooth stereo in it, so I'm looking forward to a little better sound in it.

 

I hated the location that the nalin bracket put the tweeters... you might love it but experiment i found firing up or angled slightly forward on the top outer corners of the dash to be optimal for my setup but hid them where I did to keep them out of sight

 

I read through you Dash Speakers that Rock thread. That was a nice installation on the dash and speaker pods. I don't think I'm up for that level of installation though. I do like those Select Increment dash pods though. I may end up with a set of those in the future.

Thanks for help. : )

 

A some of the aftermarket sound pods include it. I bought the Select Increments Versa-Pods and it was filled right up with the...fill. Their other options include it too.


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I think the fact my sound bar runs across the top from bar to bar and is basically a hollow plastic tube with wires in it, that is why my sound was so different,
I am unsure of the material your pods are made of.
but like some have said, poly is an easy way to ensure deep rich sound by controlling the air around the speaker

 

The overhead pods are rigid plastic boxes

 

I did the overhead SkyPod from Select Increments to take the place of my dash speakers. For me having the speakers up above works extremely well when the sunrider is back or when the top is completely down....still trying to figure out if I could use the areas in the dash where the speakers used to be...as secret compartments!!!!

 

Ok, I have dumb question about the polyfill.

Do I need to be careful about getting polyfill near the dome light and wiring? Or the speaker wiring?

Electrical wires, polyfill and fire keeps going though my mind. LOL

 

Wires are ok. Keep it away from the light and don't let it touch the speakers cone

 

Sorry I sound have mentioned this... in the line of the cone try to have as must distance for the air to compress as is possible. Also try to have a symmetrical shape behind the cone as well.
This allows for air to compress uniformly, lets the cone move easier during high excursion, and prevents side loading of the driver.

 

Will do. Thanks.

 

Another thing that gets over looked - SEAL ALL AIR LEAKS. I used rope caulk around the dome light mount and used aluminum tape on the back side to make it air tight. I also used rope caulk around the wire entry (grommet is not air tight) and the speaker flange. Zero air leaks, zero rattles.

Your front speakers will sound best in an enclosure. The plate adapters allow interaction between the front and back wave of the speaker.

 

I would rethink the tape on the dome light unless you have low wattage led bulbs.... the stock bulbs put off a lot of heat

 

No problems at all....like I said - I used aluminum tape. Been a year, zero issues.

 

My concern would be over heating the plastic dome light.... might never cause an issue.....