I mounted 2 JL audio amps under the passenger seat. MX500x4 & MX500/1 ran the wires down the passenger sill. Single 10w6 in a JL box.
JL components in the sound bar and dash. C5's replaced the alpine type Rs that were in there.

JL hasn't released the 5 channel MX amp yet. When they do, I'll get one.
And honestly the 2 amps I have, could have been mounted under the dash. They are rather small

Save money, buy a better JL 10". 2 isn't needed. The "stealth" box your considering are 10w3's. Good, but no comparison to the w6 or w7 if you really want the boom. But then you'll need different amp than what I used

 

When you say under the dash, did you mean behind it? I just wanted it out of sight.

Also the stealth box is a shallow mount w1. So even worse. I would use a different speaker, but I just didn't want to give up trunk space.

 

Damn. That is bad....w1. For what they charge. Damn

Behind the glove box.

The mx are water resistant. So I just went under the seat.

 

Where did you set your speaker box?

 

Just did this in my wife's '15 last weekend. It is time consuming as heck. I wanted to leave all the factory harness in case she trades it in later, I ran all new wiring for the front boxes/dash/sound bar. The best way is to go down the passenger side. You will need to take out the passenger inner fender to drill the hole for the amp wire. Once you have the inner fender out, you will see exactly where to drill and how to run the wiring. I took all the speaker wires/amp wire/RCA's down the passenger side, and zip tied it to the factory harness. I took the sound bar off and ran my own wires to the speakers. Coming from the passenger footwell into the radio area is not hard at all, just be sure to check your clearance on the glove box before you zip tie anything.

You won't need to pull the carpet out, but you will need to take all the passenger side floor trim and passenger side pillar trim off. It all either snaps or uses those push in fasteners. For the driver side box, just run your wiring behind the heater core and then into the driver side dash. Again, watch your clearance's with the pedals and column. There are a lot of 7mm bolts you will need to take out and when you start removing the front dash boxes, watch a YouTube video or 2 to understand how they come out without removing the dash front.

Her's is an Alpine INE-W960 head unit, I got the PAC steering wheel control module, the Sirius module, and backup camera. The 6.5's are all Alpine and the box sets behind the backseat with the 2 10's and both Soundstream amps mounted to it. It is a really clean install. I used Install Bay's dual amp kit so I only had to run 1 main power wire. I would avoid putting the amp's under the seat, but we have grandkids and lots of mud.

Have fun.. expect to be there 6-8 hours, and get the tools for removing the push in fasteners and dash panels. They are about $10.

 

I took all the speaker wires/amp wire/RCA's down the passenger side, and zip tied it to the factory harness.

Unless I am misunderstanding you, did you run power and signal in the same path without induced noise?

 

Mounted JL Audio 5 Ch amp behind JL Audio Stealth box on passenger side and ran wires under carpet along passenger side body rail. Very easy quick install. Amplifier is hidden away very well. JL now has a Marine version of the 5 Ch amplifier.. If i were to do anything over, i would use this new Marine version amp.

this is the JL stealthbox http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-jeep-wrangler-unlimited-07-up

 

Mounted JL Audio 5 Ch amp behind JL Audio Stealth box on passenger side and ran wires under carpet along passenger side body rail. Very easy quick install. Amplifier is hidden away very well. JL now has a Marine version of the 5 Ch amplifier.. If i were to do anything over, i would use this new Marine version amp.

this is the JL stealthbox Jeep Wrangler Unlimited '07-Up - JL Audio

What are your thoughts on the stealth box? I have gone round and round, and that still seems like the best option vs giving up trunk space or putting it under the front seats. Did you also run the power wires down the driver's side?

 

So, I've spent many nights reading through various stereo installs, and I'm struggling with a couple questions on wiring and which amp to buy. Here is what I'm planning (in general):

1. 
   Replace front and soundbar speakers with components up front and coaxials in the sound bar
   Add 2 10" subs, but I want the install to be very clean. I'm planning to use the JL Stealth Box on both sides, knowing the shallow speakers maybe overpriced and a little lackluster
   Add one or two amps depending on price, availability, and ease of installation

So, here are my two questions:

1. 
   For a single 5-channel amp, or two separate amps, which routing would you take for the wires, and where you prefer to mount it (assume it will fit there)?
   For separate 4-channel and mono amps, could you mount a decent (100w rms x 4) in the dash somewhere?
   If you had to mount two amps under the seats, where would run the wires to ensure they don't run along the same routes? I can run power down the passenger side and signal down driver's side, but is the floor easy to pull up or tuck wires when running one wire across to the other side? i potentially would need to run power to both sides, and I would need to run signal across.

I can see I'll need to pull the carpet up unless I can keep this to a minimum or somehow tuck a 5 channel under the dash (is that possible?). The vehicle is only a week old. If there is a link to someone who has done similar, please let me know, as I may have missed it. Based on the routing, I'll need to figure out which amp(s) to buy. Thanks

When it comes to the subs instead of going with the stealth box look into fox acoustics. They have a bodass ported box that sits on top of the wheel wells in between the rear seats and roll bar! I have this box with 2 alpine type R 10s with a CT sounds 1400.1 amp and the bass is insane!! I love JL but the w3s wouldnt be all that loud compared to what you can run in the fox box. Not to mention the stealthbox's have a hefty price tag. Just an idea! Here is a picture of my fox acoustics box installed in my JKU

 

So, I changed paths a little bit. Instead of the stealth boxes with the tw1's in them, I went with regular jl 4 ohm w3's. I have two, and I bought this box for them (stock photo):

It was a $100, and the w3's were $350 for the pair. I may or may not like it, but I know I'll get a lot more out of it than the shallow mount tw1's. I got a deal on the JL HD900/5 for $750. If I don't like the setup, I can just sell the box and maybe lose a hundred bucks, or just take it back apart and use them in something else. It takes up the area where the tops go, but I'll just use the back seat when they're off. I changed my mind again on components and went from the alpine spr-60c to the jl c5-650 because they were $350/set. I installed the pair in the sound bar, and it took forever.

I did find a home for the power wire, but it's not really a spot people have mentioned. I looked at the battery tray, and I can take one of the lower middle firewall bolts out. The tray seems to be supported a hundred ways from sunday, and I'm taking a swag that the bolt really is overkill. I can drill it to size by taking the battery out, and gives me an easy path from the firewall to the passenger side. I also thought about running it through the stock hole that has the expanding foam, but that puts it out along the painted section under the hood. Anyone see something I'm missing on pulling the battery tray bolt out? Seems to be simple.

I also decided to mount the amp under the driver's seat, or at least that's the plan.

 

I did find a home for the power wire, but it's not really a spot people have mentioned. I looked at the battery tray, and I can take one of the lower middle firewall bolts out. The tray seems to be supported a hundred ways from sunday, and I'm taking a swag that the bolt really is overkill. I can drill it to size by taking the battery out, and gives me an easy path from the firewall to the passenger side. I also thought about running it through the stock hole that has the expanding foam, but that puts it out along the painted section under the hood. Anyone see something I'm missing on pulling the battery tray bolt out? Seems to be simple.

Any reason why people don't run rca's and speaker wire up through the center console? It seems like the shortest distance. There is the 110v and cigarette power right there, but I would think it would be minimal interference. If I can use that route, my wiring distances will get much shorter.

Any thoughts on those routing options?

 

Any reason why people don't run rca's and speaker wire up through the center console? It seems like the shortest distance. There is the 110v and cigarette power right there, but I would think it would be minimal interference. If I can use that route, my wiring distances will get much shorter.

 

I ran fused amp power plus a second fused power supply from the battery through the opening in the firewall where the clutch would be (mine is auto). From there the amp 0/1 gauge runs straight back to the amp in the rear under the kick molding. Zip tied to the factory bundles of wiring. I have a bunch of things powered off of a relay that the secondary power supplies (alarm, lights, Sirius stuff). That relay is triggered by the HU remote out. I kept everything aftermarket on its own power supply to be free of canbus issues. So all amp and relay power in drivers side.

I ran speaker and rca cables on the passenger side tucked under the kicks. It was more work but I wanted rca and speaker wires on opposite side from power. So I have rca from HU along passenger side to the amp and speaker wires back up the same side for the front components. My amp is mounted on the rear driver side flat panel. I ran wires to coaxials in the sound bar by going straight up the toolbar and under the padding. Amp ground 0/1 gauge on one of the bolts under the rollbar.

I have a JL 700/5 amp and a W8 in a sealed box which is on the passenger side.

Everything is tucked away nicely.


Sent using Tap

 

I think this is where I'm going to land:

1.) Power on the passenger side through the grommet behind the side panel. It puts the wire outside of the firewall, but it's common enough. Mine is a 6-speed.

2.) I'm running new 14 gauge wire to the front speakers, and RCA's, from the front passenger seat amp location. I plan to go right along side and under the console.

3.) I'll splice into the existing 18 gauge wires for the sound bar components, directly behind the head unit. I could go from the amp up to the roll bar, but I thought this would be cleaner and quicker to install. If it changing the spliced 18 gauge wire with a straight run of 14 is going to be a big difference (or even noticeable), I can run new wires. I was just hoping to keep the wires in the original route. Doesn't matter I guess.

 

That's how I ran my power wire - through the upper hole by the door.

I ran the rcas and new front speaker wires along the right side of the console to under the passenger seat. There's enough room to just tuck them under without having to remove the console.

I ran new wires to the sound bar, one on each side down the pillars. I just ran the drivers side sound bar speaker wire under the carpet then tucked under the rear of the console (all of these into a 6-channel amp under passenger seat).

Here's my build:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/sandy-sues-jku-audio-build-1992098.html

 

I'm planning to go very similar to that. I wish I would have read this earlier. I already pulled up the top piece off the console, and I'll run the front speakers and RCA's through this path. I ran the orange pair of 16 gauge wire through there as a test to see if I had a path. you can see them in the picture.

I didn't know if I could tuck 2-4 sets of 14 gauge wire and 3 pairs of RCA's on the edge of the console. I don't see this interfering with the shifter, so I'll just run them in there. Pulling the shifter know was easy once I used a flat head to separate the top and bottom pieces from the knob.