I would say if you will run stock wheels, 1.5" spacer.

As for mounting that tire on the stock rim, take a look at the tire manufacturers specs, as to what the min and max rim widths can be used with that sized tire.

 

I would say if you will rung stock wheels, 1.5" spacer.

As for mounting that tire on the stock rim, take a look at the tire manufacturers specs, as to what the min and max rim widths can be used with that sized tire.

8.5-11 is the approved rim width according to the tire's website.
They are Mastercraft MXT

 

Some people are going to tell you to run 1.5" spacers. For 35s that's fine but the taller 37 will definitely give you some rub on the frame/control arm at full turn. You want to run around 3.5" of total backspacing. That would equate to 3" spacers on each side which I don't recommend. The right way to do it is to get new wheels the appropriate backspacing or a combination of new wheels and spacers. Most beadlocks have the 3.5" backspacing you need. If you don't want to run a beadlock a regular wheel with 4.75" of backspacing along with spacers will work fine. The adding washers to the steering stop crap im not a fan of as you would have to add a lot of washers reducing your turning radius quite a bit

 

Oh yeah, 3" spacers are way more than I would consider running.

 

1.5” spacers


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4.75 backspacing which is the same as stock 6.25-1.5=4.75 and I have 2.5” teraflex coil lift with 37x12.5r17 goodyear mtr’s and I don’t get any rub (mine was only slight rub up front after 95% turning which no one ever turns 100% but then I put on 8 alpine arms and get NOO rub,the mc lift I’m sure comes with arms to center your wheels)as you definitely will not with a 3.5” lift which is a huge lift for 37” tires with flat fenders!at least run a full size 37” tire like gy mtr’s or else those 37’s will really look tiny with that much lift!

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View attachment 3880977 4.75 backspacing which is the same as stock 6.25-1.5=4.75 and I have 2.5” teraflex coil lift with 37x12.5r17 goodyear mtr’s and I don’t get any rub (mine was only slight rub up front after 95% turning which no one ever turns 100% but then I put on 8 alpine arms and get NOO rub,the mc lift I’m sure comes with arms to center your wheels)as you definitely will not with a 3.5” lift which is a huge lift for 37” tires with flat fenders!at least run a full size 37” tire like gy mtr’s or else those 37’s will really look tiny with that much lift! View attachment 3880985


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3.5 and flats is fine on 37s. May be a bit tall for 35s. Some of us like having up travel and decent approach and departure angles.


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3.5” Metalcloak lift with small 37” bfg m/t’s.

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My 17x8.5 method holes with 4.75 backspacing.

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I run what you are looking at doing. I have the MC 3.5" lift with 37*12.5*17 on stock wheels. I used 1.75" wheel spacers.

I have some more pics over on my build thread.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f314/cookie-monster-build-2208217.html

I've been running these since June or so. I ran 12.5"s on my TJ Rubicon's stock wheels as well for about 4 years.

 

Stock wheels and 37's look sweet.

 

Just an FYI. With 4.5 inches of backspacing and everything aligned correctly, 37"s don't rub. You won't want to air the up as high as you did on the stock tires. I run around 25 - 28 psi in mine.

 

4.5 backspacing is what most guys use on a 12.5” wide tire and that’s what teraflex among other companies do say to cover their butt.4.75 will also work as it’s not that much different,it’s just hidden under the fender 1/4 more than 4.5!its all a matter of taste but I suggest either 4.5 or 4.75 backspacing for a 12.5” wide tire!any other backspacing is getting a little crazy (overcompensating)and not needed!your jeep really looks perfect!


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And that depends what tires you have. True size 37x12.50x17 Pitbull Rocker will rub at full lock unless you have 4” BS.


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I know Goodyear mtr’s are full size and EVERYONE says the pit bull rockers run small????i wouldn’t know since I don’t own 37” pit bull rockers but that’s what I’ve read,google it!


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Yeah my STT Pros are like 36.5ish when new. Before I had it aligned the passenger side would rub a bit but hasn't since getting everything dialed in.

 

My 37 Trail Grapplers just kissed the front lower control arms on 17x9 with 4.25 BS. Don’t know how you could run 4.75 and have no rub. I now run 3.5 BS and zero rubbing anywhere.


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Mine only rubbed the last 5% of turning which a lot of guys fix with washers on the steering with 4.75 backspacing on the frame only but when I added the 8 teraflex alpine arms?Rubbing is now zero and I didn’t have to add washers!any time you lift your jeep the wheel base shortens so my alpine arms got my wheelbase back and that’s why I don’t get anymore frame rub.

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^^^Exactly^^^

 

Thank for all of the replies. For some reason my phone would not let me comment on anything on the site. Had to get back to a computer.

This will be my first lifted jeep. I had a YJ for a while but it was pretty stock as far as suspension and wheels and tires go.

Backspacing is something I don't know much about and even though I have read a few things on it, real world experience will be the key for me. Just trying not to spend money only to find out it was wasted and could have been put to something better.

 

Download ‘tap talk’ app to comment


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Thanks! I wasn't arguing 4.75 wouldn't work. I was just stating that 4.5 does work. However, I plan on moving away from my stock wheels later this summer.

 

I know but hearing others tell him to do 3.5 backspacing or else...was a little nuts since you and I have no problems with 4.5 and 4.75????FAAAKE NEWS!!!![emoji106][emoji16]


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I finally ordered new tires this past Saturday, been back and forward for a while and since my oem tires are 42k miles old, now is the time. Ended up ordering ridge grapplers 37x12.5x17 and the wheels are 4.5bs if I recall with a 3.5in lift and stock fenders... hopefully have them installed tomorrow or Friday, waiting for the call that they have arrived.

I also really like the oem hard rock wheels, I debated for a while using them (or quadratics version which was discontinued when I ordered wheels) or not and finally went elsewhere. I know tire manufacturers state the 37in tire should be on a wider wheel then what came oem however with the amount of sidewall on a 37 using them on a hard rock wheel shouldn’t be a problem. I would think the only time issues might arrive is if they are aired down which even then it’s pretty unlikely issues will arrive.

I plan on holding onto my hard rock wheels Incase I need a set to mount snow tires on

 

I finally ordered new tires this past Saturday, been back and forward for a while and since my oem tires are 42k miles old, now is the time. Ended up ordering ridge grapplers 37x12.5x17 and the wheels are 4.5bs if I recall with a 3.5in lift and stock fenders... hopefully have them installed tomorrow or Friday, waiting for the call that they have arrived.



I also really like the oem hard rock wheels, I debated for a while using them (or quadratics version which was discontinued when I ordered wheels) or not and finally went elsewhere. I know tire manufacturers state the 37in tire should be on a wider wheel then what came oem however with the amount of sidewall on a 37 using them on a hard rock wheel shouldn’t be a problem. I would think the only time issues might arrive is if they are aired down which even then it’s pretty unlikely issues will arrive.



I plan on holding onto my hard rock wheels Incase I need a set to mount snow tires on

No problems with stock wheels,a lot of guys use them.37x12.5 tires usually ask for at least 8.5” wide wheels but the stock wheels are 7.5” wide so not really a problem.some shops may give you a hassle mounting them and some say they may wear weird but I don’t think soo?lots of guys use stock with wheel spacers and wear fine!


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I am running 37x13.5x17 on 4.5 backspacing and 1.5 inch spacers. I rub both my frame and inner fenders. How you all get away with just 4.5 backspacing and 12.5 tires amazes me. I am only at a 2.5 inch lift. Once my metal cloak comes in we will see what happens with the new arms.

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#1 Any lift will shorten your wheelbase #2 2.5” with 37” tires #3 your tires are 13.5” wide but the adjustable arms should bring those front wheels forward/get that 1/2” of front wheel base back and have no rub?mine doesn’t rub at all after my 8 alpine arms but before I had the same frame rub marks when turning that last 5% which didn’t bother me,you don’t NEED to go past 95%.I’m sure you’ll be fine when you get your old wheelbase back.as you can see,I use to have rub on the pinch seam in front of my rear tires before the alpine arms on the plastic inners mostly(it wasn’t bad for 11 months).these are

my before and after pics.

I think the arms also added a 1/2” or soo to my lift since the coils are now centered up/down again?it also looks/feels like it raised hopping in!

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I see you are running stock lower control arms..... I think that's the difference.

 

i have 37x12.50 cooper stt pro's on the stock sport wheels with 1.5" spacers. i added maybe two washers per side to the steering stops and eliminated my frame rub that way. i dont think i would want to go any more back spacing on a DD due to the added leverage on the steering components. also, the more backspacing, the more leverage there is to bend the c's or the axle tube.


picture from this past summer.

 

4.75 is the same I’m running,exactly!no more needed leverage to break things,kill your gas mileage,mud in the jeep from overspray or even slow you down! I also like that the tires mostly being covered by the fenders looks well thought out as opposed to 4 huge tires sticking out as if they belong on a different vehicle?


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No, but close. This is mine.

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I think The chunky sidewalls are what makes the cool factor of those rockers!


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My original point was to the OP that not all 37s with 4.5" BS will clear in the front. The front rub is controlled by axle centering (side to side), wheel BS and tire size.


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I’ve learned that every tiny adjustment can go a long way,I wasn’t trying to avoid the front slight rub on full lock and not really bothered soo much about the rear pinch seam inners rub but was aiming towards centering my wheels and I ended up with NOO more rub with my 8 alpine arms as a BIG bonus! The adjustments were only an inch total back in wheel base but that 1” makes a world of difference when the wheels hit bumps and turn all of a sudden with zero rub!37” tires NEED centering to make them work properly on a 2.5” lift as it doesn’t cheat by just adding lift/uptravel like most try to avoid because of cost of the extras needed!


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Not the best image but if you are running the stock length of your arms your axle is getting pulled back closer to the wider part of the frame, shown in red.

If you do have your axle properly centered your tires should make an arch just missing the frame. However if you do not have the proper backspacing you might be hitting on the control arms highlighted in blue.

I do know the Pitbulls are slightly taller than my STT Pros. They are pretty awesome tires though. I came really close to getting a set but the noise was a bit too much for me. However, I would check to see just how close you really are to your frame. A very small adjustment forward maybe all that is needed to prevent them from rubbing on the frame.

 

I got this on order, so it should fix my rubbing issues

 

I have that exact lift in 3.5'' sitting in my spare bedroom. The last thing im waiting on is to determine which wheels im going with.

 

Very nice. That's what I am running.

 

How do you like it so far? It was between that and the rock Krawler Flex. I just went with my gut since I haven’t really seen any bad reviews


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I like it a lot. Drives very nice for a lifted and heavy Jeep. I think it corners better than it did stock. I was surprised how much I liked the ride of this kit. On my TJ I swapped springs and shocks a few times till I found something I could live with. At this time, I have no reasons to mess with anything.

 

check out my garage pics as well as these:

 

Nice choice in tires!


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