Just bought a 2009 Wrangler and dropped it off to the dealer to inspect it. They want to charge me $2,200 to replace both front and rear drive shafts because the $10 boot is torn. Why are there not more people simply buying a new ruber boot, cutting it in half, putting it over the drive shaft, and either epoxying the seal together or using some type of adhesive? Is there simply no other product that allows you to repair the drive shaft in place? There is nothing wrong with the entire drive shaft at all. I've also read where Tom shafts do not even use a boot - so does anyone know of some inexpensive fix / solution for the torn boot?
slymcfly
This is what you should do when you have a torn boot, dirt and water can get inside the boot and mix with the grease then cause bearing failure.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BZHW3RT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BZHW3RT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mopar sells a replacement boot if you mean the boot where the shaft slides.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/rear-drive-shaft-boot-kit-wrangler-jk-unlimited-68400289AA
But the real question is, has it been run with a torn boot long enough that the sliding surface is toast. The two ends must slide easily with each other. If they don't, it will quickly destroy the joints at each end.
Or perhaps you mean the joint at one end of the shaft or the other has failed. That can also be re-built. It can even be re-built with a better joint than stock, from TeraFlex.
You can buy cheaper options than the stock drive shafts.
But are you surprised that a dealership is pushing you towards the most expensive option to resolve an issue? Seriously?
If you need two new drive shafts, and I am not saying you do, you could buy two new drive shafts for just over half of what they are trying to get out of you and replace them yourself. But there is a chance you don't need new drive shafts. I would either step up and look at it yourself or take it to a local reputable independent shop.
But you can't cut a boot in half and glue it back together, that idea will fail.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/rear-drive-shaft-boot-kit-wrangler-jk-unlimited-68400289AA
But the real question is, has it been run with a torn boot long enough that the sliding surface is toast. The two ends must slide easily with each other. If they don't, it will quickly destroy the joints at each end.
Or perhaps you mean the joint at one end of the shaft or the other has failed. That can also be re-built. It can even be re-built with a better joint than stock, from TeraFlex.
You can buy cheaper options than the stock drive shafts.
But are you surprised that a dealership is pushing you towards the most expensive option to resolve an issue? Seriously?
If you need two new drive shafts, and I am not saying you do, you could buy two new drive shafts for just over half of what they are trying to get out of you and replace them yourself. But there is a chance you don't need new drive shafts. I would either step up and look at it yourself or take it to a local reputable independent shop.
But you can't cut a boot in half and glue it back together, that idea will fail.
Yeah, get a replacement boot, mark the shaft with a sharpie for alignment, undo the rear of the driveshaft, slide it out, clean, grease, slide it in with new boot and clamps, reattach driveshaft, then cinch the clamps on the new boot. I did this on my Jeep after running without the boot for a year.
There's a hole or 2 on the rear coupler that isn't threaded, use a punch of the appropriate size with a hammer to dislodge the rear yolk after all the bolts are out. Or keep a bolt or 2 in but loose so it doesn't drop unexpectedly.
There's a hole or 2 on the rear coupler that isn't threaded, use a punch of the appropriate size with a hammer to dislodge the rear yolk after all the bolts are out. Or keep a bolt or 2 in but loose so it doesn't drop unexpectedly.
Quadratec sells a replacement boot.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/rear-drive-shaft-boot-kit-wrangler-jk-unlimited-68400289AA?gclid=Cj0KCQiAm4TyBRDgARIsAOU75srDHkufkwB_PGTwIqQ-GaspjHspgwj7P_xH68ua2FQImfJfkiKcj88aAqZaEALw_wcB
There is also a video on Youtube on how to do it.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/rear-drive-shaft-boot-kit-wrangler-jk-unlimited-68400289AA?gclid=Cj0KCQiAm4TyBRDgARIsAOU75srDHkufkwB_PGTwIqQ-GaspjHspgwj7P_xH68ua2FQImfJfkiKcj88aAqZaEALw_wcB
There is also a video on Youtube on how to do it.
I will say that it is a bear to break the rear shaft at the pinion loose. I beat on my 2014 like crazy. I literally could drive around with the bolts out and it would not break free. My point is don't be surprised when it does not want to fall out freely and be prepared for a bit of a job.
Be very very careful once the boot is gone. This means nothing to keep the grease in. Without the grease, eventually the joint will seize. And it's not like that will happen in your driveway. It can seize doing 80mph and take out your transfercase too if you are lucky. Once the boot is gone on the front I would recommend pull the front shaft until you can get it replaced. Or it may get very expensive, not to mention dangerous if that joint let's go at speed.
I will say it takes very little grease to keep the slip joint happy. I have had a couple apart and I think unless you were running in the sand and mud it would be unlikely the slip joint would actually seize up. I am talking about the slip joint not the rzeppa joint.
You can buy a rebuild kit for that which includes the boot. Or you can buy an upgraded rebuild kit from TeraFlex that also includes the boot, but works better at higher angles.
Once that boot fails, it usually means you need more than just a new boot. But you can rebuild the joint. Or you can replace the drive shaft.
Once that boot fails, it usually means you need more than just a new boot. But you can rebuild the joint. Or you can replace the drive shaft.
Found I have a small tear in my boot (the slip joint), so ordered the Mopar kit and some CV pliers but my clamp bands from the kit don't appear to be the same as in the youtube video above, and don't appear compatible with my CV pliers (which are the same type as the youtube video). See photo.
It looks to me like the little nubs on either side of the plier jaws need to be pulled together with some other type of pliers, these nubs are far too wide for the pliers I have and my pliers aren't even really the right shape for them. I assume this is common knowledge but I've never used these types of clamps and pliers before so advice is appreciated, do I just need a different type of pliers?
The kit I got is Mopar 68400289AA, and the clamps do match the diameter of the boot (one is larger than the other), so it doesn't seem like a mistake of the wrong clamps.
Edit to add, found the name "Oetiker" on the bands, which led me to this page that looks like the same or similar style, but need to figure out what tool is needed to clamp them down:
![4463152]( "4463152")
It looks to me like the little nubs on either side of the plier jaws need to be pulled together with some other type of pliers, these nubs are far too wide for the pliers I have and my pliers aren't even really the right shape for them. I assume this is common knowledge but I've never used these types of clamps and pliers before so advice is appreciated, do I just need a different type of pliers?
The kit I got is Mopar 68400289AA, and the clamps do match the diameter of the boot (one is larger than the other), so it doesn't seem like a mistake of the wrong clamps.
Edit to add, found the name "Oetiker" on the bands, which led me to this page that looks like the same or similar style, but need to figure out what tool is needed to clamp them down:
These clamps look like they're intended to be used with some type of needle point pliers, the nubs the pliers need to grab seem pretty small for something like channel locks and I wonder if they'd slip off depending on how hard these things need to be cranked on. I actually don't own a pair of channel locks specifically but could see if a regular set of pliers I have might work, or go over to the hardware store.
I went with the $50 boot kit rather than a $500 rear driveshaft. After dealing with an out of balance aftermarket front shaft, and understanding that changing out the rear pinion yoke is a bit harder, the boot seemed like the better route, maybe if I damage it again I'll change my mind on that.
I went with the $50 boot kit rather than a $500 rear driveshaft. After dealing with an out of balance aftermarket front shaft, and understanding that changing out the rear pinion yoke is a bit harder, the boot seemed like the better route, maybe if I damage it again I'll change my mind on that.
Thanks for the tips guys. I went and got some 12" channel locks to be able to crank down good and hard, I buy tools as I go working on the Jeep as I've never really needed anything beyond the most basic tools before buying this stinking thing.
As for how it tore originally, I'm either going to do the simple Teraflex shit of the stock evap bracket, or perhaps get around to installing my RockHard 4x4 relocation. I originally balked at using the relocation bracket after reading about potential issues with the emissions system after disconnecting hoses, though maybe I'll look back into it and just do it, probably not a big deal. Though looking at the tear there are some dirty looking scuff marks (like dirt lodged into the plastic from long ago) all around the tear itself that makes me think I may have just somehow caught it on a high center type situation, but guess I can't be sure it didn't just scuff up against the bracket under articulation.
As for how it tore originally, I'm either going to do the simple Teraflex shit of the stock evap bracket, or perhaps get around to installing my RockHard 4x4 relocation. I originally balked at using the relocation bracket after reading about potential issues with the emissions system after disconnecting hoses, though maybe I'll look back into it and just do it, probably not a big deal. Though looking at the tear there are some dirty looking scuff marks (like dirt lodged into the plastic from long ago) all around the tear itself that makes me think I may have just somehow caught it on a high center type situation, but guess I can't be sure it didn't just scuff up against the bracket under articulation.
I just installed the rockhard relo kit the other day. No lights on the dash or nothing. Pretty easy simple deal. Cut the old connections off the old hoses and shove them into the new hoses. If you’re worried about them coming off get some hose clamps but I’m running without them for now and not worried about it. Just throw in in there. Really not a big deal. Took maybe 45 mins to do.
Got the boot replaced but will need to deal with the evap another day. Was indeed an SOB getting the shaft off the rear axle, mainly due to my inability to land a very heavy blow with a hammer through the punch holes given the awkward confines under the Jeep on the ground. Rigged up a janky stack of socket extensions to allow me to hammer on the punch from behind the diff with more space and then it went pretty easily. Channel locks worked great on the clamps, got em plenty tight.
Installed the Rockhard relo kit. Couldn't find the brake drop bracket but I've been running it like this without any bracket since I lifted without harm, should be fine to have the bit of extra slack.
![4463847]( "4463847")
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