How much weight? I would not tow anything that requires trailer brakes with any Wrangler.

 

Dry is 2700lbs, I have no issue towing the max load if both trailer and tow rig are equipped correctly. I've done a lot of home work on the sway/weight dist hitch and all the other complications in the towing with a wrangler. I just have not looked into the brake controller and wiring except for that fact that it is needed.

But just to clarify depending on your local laws, if you would not tow a trailer that requires e-brakes than you probably wont be towing anything besides a garbage utility trailer. NYS requires brakes on trailers weighing over 1000#'s and a GVWR over3000#'s

I bought the Mopar 7pin harness from Quadratec. It comes with everything but the brake controller. It does run the wires to hook one up though.

Thank's, I will check that out.

 

I bought the Mopar 7pin harness from Quadratec. It comes with everything but the brake controller. It does run the wires to hook one up though.

 

Do you recognize at 2700# you're already 700# over the capacity of your Jeep ratings? No two door JK has a rating higher then 2000#. You mentioned dry weight, that means nothing else in the trailer, no luggage, no food, no water. Most dry weights on RVs don't necessarily include all of the options. By the time you add anything you'll be way over your ratings.

If a trailer has brake options they are great to have in case of sway. But if you're going to tow over capacity you're putting yourself and others at risk, and shortening the life of your Jeep.

 

I guess it's fair to assume I'd be towing with my JK since I did not specify but I will be towing with my wife's 2014 JKU that I ordered with the proper gears and all specifically for this reason.
Sorry I suppose I should have specified that in the begging but I am really not wanting to get into a "can I tow this" thread, just looking for brake controller info.

 

I guess it's fair to assume I'd be towing with my JK since I did not specify but I will be towing with my wife's 2014 JKU that I ordered with the proper gears and all specifically for this reason. Sorry I suppose I should have specified that in the begging but I am really not wanting to get into a "can I tow this" thread, just looking for brake controller info.

my advice is get the MOPAR 7 pin harness that is available for the JK. got mine from Amazon for about $80 shipped. that includes everything you need except the actual controller. pretty much a plug and play since it's mopar. i order all my trailer needs from Etrailer.com. great prices and service. i am partial to Tekonsha Prodigy controllers. whatever you get, make sure it's a proportional model- much better performance.

 

Where are you guys mounting the controller? I recently bought a controller but I'm having a hard time finding a spot to put the thing that looks decent and is easy to use.

 

http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html. This one doesn't have to be mounted flat- so it can go on the kick panel by your knees. Otherwise, lower left dash is my preferred spot.

 

I have used the Tekonsha Prodigy for years on several vehicles with good results. Have not used it on a Jeep but i imagine it would work just as well.

 

Harness here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s/192-8605201-9031865?k=mopar+7+pin+jk

 

Yep got it and am now looking at the recommended controller.
Let me ask though, e-trailer website says I'll need to purchase additional wiring kit for the controllers, will that be necessary if I am to buy the Mopar harness from Amazon.

 

It's calling for this, It's a universally wiring harness so I believe I won't need it as the mopar kit will take care of this.
Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat - 10 Gauge Wires etrailer Accessories and Parts ETBC7

 

It's calling for this, It's a universally wiring harness so I believe I won't need it as the mopar kit will take care of this. Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat - 10 Gauge Wires etrailer Accessories and Parts ETBC7

correct.

 

Whew! Glad your not towing with your JK. I'll second the Tekonsha Prodigy what ever you finally go with make sure its not a timer based controller, you won't find many but some dealerships still go cheap if they install those as a package. The basic Tekonsha Prodigy P2 does just fine but if you want the newer P3 is a great and not much more. Prices on Amazon are a bit cheaper, if your a prime member that's probably the way to go. Takes a bit to wire any rig to get the wiring up to the dash area and to the battery, but worth it.

What trailer are you getting?

 

I am a prime member and will check that, thanks.
I'm not completely set as we have changed our minds back and forth from the R-pod 179 to the Jayco 17a or Jayco 16rb. All around the same weight and size just floor plans a little different. It's really the wifey that needs to sh!t or get off the pot but I'm sure you know how that is.

 

Just installed 7 pin harness and Tekonsha p2 controller. Towing an Aliner Ranger 12 pop up. Trailer weight is around 1900 loaded with all the camping stuff. Jeep is 15 JKU 3.73 gears 315/75/16 duratracs 1.5 TF spring lift. The controller is great. Mounted on the lower dash on right side of steering column. Looking to regear soon. 4.10 or 4.56 not sure which. Jeep wasn't doggin it. But im in fl. Going up mountains might suck.

 

@Roaddawg1

I got the Mopar 7 pin harness, a Strike Force Zebra CB Mount and a Tekonsha P3. I extended the lines from the P3 to pass along the windshield frame and down into the engine compartment. The red wire stayed in the cab and was soldered to the white with tan stripe wire in the brake switch.

The 7 wire harness was short for my JKU based on how I ran it, so I spliced some extra wire to connect it to my sPOD which is on the drivers side. I wired the P3 to the sPOD as well since it needs a breaker and not a fuse, which is what the sPOD does for me, since I got the SE with Mosfets rather than regular fuses.

The blue wire in the 7 pin harness was connected to the blue wire in the Tekonsha harness.

I used the metal bracket to connect the P3 to the bracket and it's solid as a rock. I have quick access to the manual brake as does my passenger in case the shtf.

I don't like that the 7 pin harness hangs lower than the 4 pin, but I will move it when the time comes.

 

@Roaddawg1

I got the Mopar 7 pin harness, a Strike Force Zebra CB Mount and a Tekonsha P3. I extended the lines from the P3 to pass along the windshield frame and down into the engine compartment. The red wire stayed in the cab and was soldered to the white with tan stripe wire in the brake switch.

The 7 wire harness was short for my JKU based on how I ran it, so I spliced some extra wire to connect it to my sPOD which is on the drivers side. I wired the P3 to the sPOD as well since it needs a breaker and not a fuse, which is what the sPOD does for me, since I got the SE with Mosfets rather than regular fuses.

The blue wire in the 7 pin harness was connected to the blue wire in the Tekonsha harness.

I used the metal bracket to connect the P3 to the bracket and it's solid as a rock. I have quick access to the manual brake as does my passenger in case the shtf.

I don't like that the 7 pin harness hangs lower than the 4 pin, but I will move it when the time comes.

Yes exactly right, you'll need to bring three wires through the fire wall.
2 are for the power to the controller and one is going from the molpar 7 pin wiring harness where it ends in the engine bay to the p-3 controller.
Then you will need to get one wire from the p-3 controller wherever you mount it down to where your brake switch is and splice that wire into the wire for your brakes.
As mentioned above there is a small access panel just under the steering column that makes splicing much easier.
One poster stated that there is a wiring harness that goes in place of that splice down at the brake switch but he has yet to come back to this thread with that information and I could not find anything available for that so just went ahead and did a good well soldered and insulated splice.

Thanks for the clarification guys. I got it all wired up and works great. Going camping in the morning. I took picks during the install and want to do a how-to write up for others to see. I already had the flat 4-pin trailer plug from the factory Max Tow package. I plugged the Mopar 7-pin harness in with the 4-pin at the left tail light, so I have both mounted at the rear. Looks clean. I then routed the harness, per the instructions, up the right side, over the gas tank and sub frames and into the engine bay. Ran power, ground and blue wire into cab and hooked up to the controller. Hooked the red wire, via splice tab, to the brake switch. Looks real clean and factory.

 

On my JK '15, I found the white and tan wire on the brake switch and had already hooked up the Mopar 7-pin harness and tested the lights on a flatbed trailer I use frequently with a F250 work truck. Wanted to use the Tekonsha 3 controller, but I got too rough with with brake switch trying to remove it and damaged it, caused the jeep to be towed to the dealership and have the switch replaced. Ouch! Afterwards I saw I could take off the kick panel for somewhat easier access to the brake switch, but kinda of gun shy of messing with the brake switch now. When I buy a single axle trailer with electric brakes, I can just have them folks hookup the controller. Or I may try again after recuperating from the last effort. :beerme:

 

Yeah, if I hadn't read that it was twist to release I might have broken mine as well.

 

I'm not sure if the other poster was referring to the flat tow mopar harness. I didn't want to spend $185USD to test that out

 

So, doing a little research on 7 pin trailer wiring for my new (to me) travel trailer. I have the quadratec 4 pin harness already on my 15 willys jku. I also have a harness adapter I made to convert the 4 pin to a 7 pin for a different trailer. That trailer doesnt have brakes so I was not concerned about the other 3 pins, so they're just empty. I've used this adapter on my new trailer already and it provides the normal taillight functions. The 4 pin connector includes ground, left turn, right turn and stop. My new trailer has brakes and needs a 12 volt source, pins 5 and 6, but it does not need pin 7, generally for back up lights, which it doesn't have. Is there any reason I couldn't just run a wire from the 12 volt socket in my cargo area or a different 12 volt source, fused of course, and the brake controller "trigger" wire into a new two wire waterproof connector down by the 4 pin and wire my homemade 7 pin adapter accordingly. I don't see what I'd be gaining spending money on a new 7 pin wiring harness. If there's a good reason for it, I have no problem spending it, but I'd prefer to do it myself anyway. Anyone have any good reasons why this wouldn't work?

Also, I have a Tekonsha Voyager brake controller that I'd like to install. It's probably 10 years old, but it's never been used. It says its an inertia activated, proportional braking system. Anyone familiar with this model?

 

I had a Tekonsha voyager in my Tacoma for towing a travel trailer. It worked fine, but I tried to give it away and the thing fell apart internally. After seeing how the voyager works (weight hanging from sheet that interrupts optical beam) and how easy it falls apart, I wouldn't use one again. The leveling knob will easily break the pendulum inside the controller, if you exercise it too much (how mine died).

Link to same problem with pictures:
4x4 Ham - Tekonsha Voyager - Brake Controller

I am thinking about adding a brake controller to my 2015 JK Rubicon so I can tow my utility trailer at around 2000lbs more safely. I've been wanting to swap out the 3500lb axle on it for a braking axle for some time, so I think I'm going to go ahead and do it.

Etrailer has a decent video showing the complexity of installing a brake controller and 7 pin on a 2013 wrangler with generic parts:

https://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.html