Stop hooking up random wires to the can bus or you may fry it

You radio harness lacks a ignition on power wire

You must hook that to a ignition controlled power plug harness (aka cig lighter harness)

In the big fuse box called a TIPM under the hood one fuse slot has three holes instead of 2 (pictured on underside of box lid)
That three hole fuse slot is for a power plug and fuse can be inserted 2 ways one end plus middle hole or other end plus middle
One fuse position makes power plug always on other fuse position makes power plug only on with key on


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Hi Mr. Digger84, I have seen your others post on this forum, and see that you have an Impressive Knowledge of this subject. I have a 2012 Wrangler Unlimited Sport bought in 2017, it has am/fm, cd, aux, Sirius with a Subwoofer. I know it has an amp to power the Sub, and other Speakers. When I bought the Jeep it had an Aftermarket Single Din cheap Dual radio in it, and everything worked, i.e. Sub, SWC, all Speakers. The only thing that didn't work was the dimmer when the lights came on. I didn't like it. So, I ordered a used Mopar Radio on Ebay, just like the one that was on my listing using the VIN. I took out the Dual and put in the the Mopar Radio, there was only one plug, the one with 22 pins with the 12v+ and the black ground, no other. Now my Mopar is having the am/fm problem, so I am installing an Aftermarket Radio. I would use the Aftermarket connector but Can't find it, I gave the Cheap Dual Radio to a freind's son who just got a S-10, and forgot what happened to the connector. I am the second owner of this JK, so I guess from reading all the post on this subject (mostly yours), all the wiring for the other connectors are in by the Amp. So, My question to you, is on the Aftermarket Radio side of the Harness what do I connect to pins 1 and 13 the CAN + and -? Also my Wiper Switch doesn't work, everything else works, just got to make the wiper blades work with a 3 way switch installed on the dash. Please see the Pic that I added, that is the only Connector that I talked about earlier.

 

Yes, stop hooking up power to the can bus. you are likely to fry something. There is no "premium" sound where the back speakers power the front. If you have the sub in the back, then yes you have the premium sound, but there will be no speaker wires at the radio harness. With the premium sound, you get an amp under the dash and that processes all the audio signals out to the speakers. The head unit talks to the amp via canbus and the amp generates all the speaker signals.

The right way to get an aftermarket head unit to talk to your Jeep is with a PAC. it takes all the signals from the jeep and turns them into standard signals that after market units expect. The cheapest way to replace your head unit would be to find a used on on CL or FB, just make sure they get you the security code or you may have to spend a bunch of time cracking it.

 

Stock premium audio system: (See the wire colors going from the stock head unit to the alpine amp)

Jeep doesn't supply a red ignition wire and the blue amp turn-on wire won't work with the alpine premium sound. You need a can bus adapter such as the PAC adapter from pac audio. It will turn on the amp through can bus and supply the red wire you need.

DO NOT CONNECT STRAY WIRES TO THE CAN BUS WIRING. YOU CAN COOK YOUR ENTIRE JEEP COMPUTER

 

The head of nut senses if a can bus amp is connected

If an amp is on the can bus the head unit defaults to constant moderately high speaker out the rear pair of radio outputs which becomes the amp input

Amp then sends signal to all speaker pairs biased on digital can bus signal from head unit on volume and balance and fade

To bypass amp you need a harness that plugs into amp output harness plug and picks up all four pair of speaker outputs from new head unit then no silly ass aftermarket can box is needed

The new headunit has an amp turn on wire you can run to an aftermarket amp

Metra sells can amp bypass harness fairly reasonable


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To bypass amp you need a harness that plugs into amp output harness plug and picks up all four pair of speaker outputs from new head unit then no silly ass aftermarket can box is needed

That's a pretty silly and useless outcome and I would not recommend it.

You lose the sub as well as additional speaker amplification and loss of steering wheel controls. The big problem however is that you run into impedance issues on the roll bar speakers. On the later models there are two separate sets of speakers in the roll bar and they are biamped (not sure about the 2013's). To run all 4 speakers in the roll bar you would have to run the two sets in parallel... which halves the overall impedance.

For the moderate price of a pac unit you get to keep it all and avoid impedance issues. It's a no brainer.
(You will lose fade support though as noted in the PAC compatibility notes)

 

AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! Quit hooking up stuff NOW! Your comment that you blew some fuses should tell you something. "I only have wires coming from the Jeep, no harness anymore." What does this mean? Did you cut the plugs off? The above comments are on point, you are running a real risk of frying the CANBUS just guessing. If you still have the vehicle side plugs, you'll need a PAC to get the correct connections. If you're past that, I'd wire your aftermarket unit direct with new speakers wires directly from the HU to the speakers LR, FR, power/ground from the fuse box.

You're not getting sound because this isn't wired correctly. And in no case do the rear speakers power anything.

Sorry to come off harsh but your experiment could turn your "real cheap, basic..." into a very expensive trip to the dealer. Post a pic of your your current wiring so we can help but please don't try to power up your new head unit.

 

Depends how many output channels your aftermarket amp has

Plus stock speakers are nothing to brag about


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Depends how many output channels your aftermarket amp has

Plus stock speakers are nothing to brag about


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Mmmm.... All of a sudden you mention an aftermarket amp.

In your above post you mention little more than a bypass harness. It's not the point anyway. There is already an amp onboard is the point, and for the modest price of a pac unit, (most certainly LESS than the price of a 4 or 6 channel aftermarket amp) it can still be used.

You're not making sense. OP bought a $100 head unit. Given that, I suspect the stock speakers and amp are quite adequate for their needs. They simply need a means to connect it all to an aftermarket head unit. The pac will do that with ease at a relatively cheap price. The ONLY thing you lose is fade ability. Volume and balance are not controlled through can buss. I'm not sure where you get that crap from. It is only the fader function which passes through can buss

From pac description:

• Retains steering wheel controls (pre-programmed)
• Data controlled accessory and navigation outputs
• Retains factory amplifier
• Factory RSE activation
• 12V ACC output (RAP)
• Vehicle Speed Sense (VSS)
• Illumination
• Reverse trigger
• Parking brake output

• Does not retain uConnect
• Does not retain blind spot detection system
• CHYRVD harness required to retain factory reverse camera and VES. Please check vehicle compatibility of the CHYRVD here
• In Premium Amplified Systems only two input channels can be used from the aftermarket radio, therefore there will be no fading capability of the aftermarket stereo.

 

Thanks all for the replies. No wires to the CAN BUS anymore, got it. I don't care that much about hooking up the cheap new stereo, it is clearly beyond my scope of knowledge. I am checking with a local junkyard today for a working OEM replacement where the wires can match up directly. Assuming it works, gonna call it a day after that. Thanks again!

 

That's probably your best bet if you wish to continue using the alpine sound and don't want to spend lots of money.
The alpine amp is a bit of a strange bird and requires a higher end can bus adapter to make it function 100% properly, and the only aftermarket head units which work with the higher end can bus adapters are the higher end head units.

 

Try and get the security code with the head unit. They are tied to the vehicle vin. You can hack it without, but it will take a large time investment.

 

Your options are RES REQ or a mygig Including RER REN RBZ RHR RHN
You only need a code if 2012 or newer

Year does not matter but they first appeared in 2007

It must be out of a vehicle with a high speed interior can bus not a low speed bus
Must have rectangular face no knobs part way beyond side edge and no oval face units

High speed included Wrangler Liberty Nitro Journey and Mini vans

Low speed amp included avenger/Sirus/200
Grand Cherokee, Durango, 300/charger/challenger

What is wrong with your unit as there may be an easy fix


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double post

 

High/low speed bus has nothing to do with this topic. This is a 2013 jeep, not a 2007, or a durango
Stop wrecking the OP's thread.

I offered a solution but I also need to counter your misinformation about volume knob effecting head unit volume output in amp mode as you are completely WRONG


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I would consider by-passing the factory system, if you want better sound... There is nothing in the factory h/u, amp and speakers that are worth saving from an audio/sound stand point, imo.

 

I suspect that if OP was talking about "better sound" they would have invested more than $100 into a head unit.... but who knows... this thread is so off-the-rails now....

 

Yep, you are correct. Don't care about better sound. Just kind of wanted to listen to the baseball game in the car or use the AUX input. Bluetooth would be nice, but don't really care. Hooked up the OEM again and I get no radio reception (that was the original problem), no sound, volume knob only works when an AUX is plugged in, but no sound from the AUX either. Didn't try the CD player.

It's still in and being used as a phone holder with the CD slot. Earbuds and phone, how I've been rolling for the past 6 months.

 

If he wants to buy a replacement stock radio high vs low bus is very important as a low bus system won’t even turn on in a high bus vehicle like the JK

But most likely problem with stock radio is under 5 minutes to fix the common solder joint problem


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Unending Wrong information

To trace back history

The WJ (98-04) infinity gold used all 4 speaker level inputs all head unit amplitude control and did not even require a pci wire although one was used and had a separate amp on wire from head unit

The 04-08 Pacifica basic and high end intermezzo used only front channel speaker level inputs and pci amp control

The CAN bus amps both high and low speed bus systems receive constant level rear speaker output and volume is controlled via digital can bus data relaying volume control setting from head unit to the amp

However of course if within a song music volume changes or pauses the amp must respond which is why your silly observation that an aftermarket volume change to amp being reflected in speaker volume

But again when a stock head unit is in amp mode the volume knob has no effect on amplitude of sound sent from rear channel head unit outputs to amp inputs it is done by digital can bus signal

Your half ass aftermarket box is too cheap to bother with that

This is a repeatable verifiable fact that in amp mode stock head unit with stock can bus amp does not vary rear output head unit signal volume(amplitude) based on volume knob setting

It comes out at loud speaker level even with volume knob turned to zero volume

Your refusal to accept the truth is your issue not mine
Test it if you doubt it


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Maybe you just aren’t getting that the stock radio actually changes it’s activity when it senses a stock amp and switches to amp mode

Hence when in amp mode even if you hooked a speaker to head unit front channel outputs you would get no sound from those pins and the rear output pins output is changed to constant moderately high volume

When not in amp mode all four pairs of of head unit output pins put out volume/balance/fade controlled speaker level output

These are not simple radios just wired differently they are complex units that can change from amp mode to non amp mode and communicate with stock amps via can bus with Tipm as the hub


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Your "conversations" are all greek to me, so apologies if the answer is there somewhere. This might be (aka likely is) a dumb question, but is this setup possible given the alpine premium system? https://www.lifewire.com/using-ipod-car-adapter-with-no-head-unit-534586

I have RCA adapters that the rear +/- speaker wires can connect to, and also have a Y adapter to go from RCA to 3.5mm. I don't fully understand the amp situation in the system I have, as well as how it gets powered up via the dash wiring.

Once again, thanks for any help.

 

The amp is off and turns on through a directive given to the amp through can bus by the head unit when the head unit turns on.... (can bus is an electronic communication highway between all the different electronic modules contained in your jeep).... so long story short, you can't even turn the amp on without a proper head unit and can bus adapter (if going aftermarket. The stock head unit CAN speak jeep so it doesn't need any kind of external can bus adapter)

The can bus adapter is required because aftermarket head units don't know how to speak "jeep", so an interpreter must be used between the head unit and the jeep so the two can communicate in much the same way that you would require an interpreter to speak to someone who only speaks some foreign language you don't know. That interpreter is a (proper) can bus adapter.

The head unit sends an "amp turn on" instruction set to the can bus adapter in its basic language and method. The can bus adapter converts that to jeep language and sends that message to the amp through the jeep's communication network (can bus) to the amp, and the amp turns on.

 

Your options are

Fix current oem radio

Get compatible oem radio

Use aftermarket head unit and bypass factory amp

Use aftermarket head unit and an add on can box to act as go between for stock amp and aftermarket radio


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Think about getting expert assistance. An installer of automotive audio systems may be better equipped to identify the issue and resolve it.

 

the end of the connector should look like this
can bus wires are pins 2 and 13
pin one is battery power a much larger pin and wire
pin 12 is also a large pin and wire for ground

unless you have an aftermarket can bus translation box you should not hook anything up to the can bus wires
it is difficult to determine what modifications were made on prior installs
they must have either had a can bus translator/adapter box or have done an amp bypass
does the plug you posted an image of have wires connected to pins 19-22?

you will note front speaker pins 19-22 are only populated on a non amplified system and the no connect listing is on the oem amplified system
you will also note rear speaker pins 8-11 each have 2 lisiting one is if they go to factory amp other is without factory amp where they go direct to speakers

pin 1	circuit number A116	wire size 14	wire color YL/RD	FUSED B(+)
1	A973	14	RD	FUSED B(+)
2	D264	22	WT/OR	CAN IHS (-)
3	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
4	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
5	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
6	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
7	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
8	X205	18	GY/LG	LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+)
8	X51	18	DG/DB	LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+)
9	X295	18	GY/DG	LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-)
9	X57	18	DG/OR	LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-)
10	X206	18	DG/LG	RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+)
10	X52	18	GY/DB	RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+)
11	X296	18	DG/GY	RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-)
11	X58	18	GY/OR	RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-)
12	Z916	18	BK	GROUND
13	D265	22	WT/GY	CAN IHS (+)
14	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
15	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
16	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
17	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
18	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
19	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
19	X202	18	DG/VT	RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (+)
20	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
20	X292	18	DG/YL	RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER (-)
21	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
21	X201	18	GY/VT	LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (+)
22	N0	0	NA	NO CONNECT
22	X291	18	GY/YL	LEFT FRONT SPEAKER (-)

 

Sorry I put the wrong number, it's suppose to be 2 and 13. 19 thru 22 are Speakers like all the diagrams show. I got frustrated yesterday so I put back the Mopar radio in and closed up the Dash. I got a simple Wire harness which didn't have any wires in the corrisponsing pin connecting 2 and 13 on Factory side Harness. After reading a lot of post on here and other Jeep Forums, I went out and purchased the Intergraded one and that one does have pins and wires that corresponds with those pins on the factory side harness. Didn't hook it up not sure of what I was doing was correct. I did Car Audio work from 2000 thru 2012 with a company out of Dallas, we were Car Auto reps for major retail stores, but not installing them in automobiles. I did do some installation in my own (minivan), an Amp, Subwoofer, and upgraded the Speakers to take the extra watts from the Amp. So, I know enough to get me in trouble.

 

Just thinking that I need to get back in there to check all this is correct, of what I said.

 

the probably was modified or no stock amp because oem radio harness with stock amp lacks pins and wires in pins 19-22

if it was my vehicle I would first see if a stock amp is installed

if not I would just wire in aftermarket radio

if does have oem amp would either rewire amp outputs directly to new radio or get a oem radio from a minivan 2008-2020 grand caravan or town and country 2008 thru 2016 will all be plug and play except for needing antitheft code for 2012 and newer
all these minivan oem will work including the touch screen units

my first choice would be a 2009 or 2010 RER nav unit as it has built in uconnect for hands free calling

alternate choice is use aftermarket radio and replace amp with a non can bus unit
either a 6 speaker infinity gold from a WJ or an 11 speaker amp from a Azera (which is my favorite amp and usually about $40 at junkyard)

 

Already spent $800 and some change. Would like to put in what I already purchased, and the wife don't want me to spend more time and money. I have read a lot on this subject and can't remember where I read it, but somewhere I read that the tweeters started the amp thru the CAN BUS with those speaker wires. Not totally sure if that's what it said.

 

what turns oem radio and oem amp on is a digital message over the can bus
the key switch or key fob switch sends a digital message over the can c bus that is picked up by the tipm
the tipm then sends out a digital message over can ihs bus that is picked up by radio and amp

used mygig radios are about $40 at the junkyard you are gonna spend several times that to get the non can bus radio functioning in the can bus system

next cheapest option is to use aftermarket radio and change amp to non can bus from junkyard plus run 4 or 5 extra wires from new radio to new amp but a lot of rewiring at amp itself and still will not have steering wheel controls working

the way steering wheel controls work is they have 2 wires from switches thru clockspring going back to cluster, cluster reads resistance across those 2 wires (mux resistance) there are 7 different resistances one for no radio button push and one for each of the three push options for switch on each side. basd on that mux resistance cluster sends out a can ihs bus message to control radio

resistances are 24k ohms, 9.23k ohms, 5.3k ohms, 2.9k ohms, 1.143k ohms 461 ohms and 0 ohms dead short

radio remote can IHS messages are all message ID 3A#
message body
00 00 no buttons pushed
10 00 track down
20 00 next preset
08 00 track up
04 00 volume down
01 00 next mode
02 00 volume up

another not used message is
40 00 previous preset

key position is a different can message ID
there is another message for gear selectio ID