Get up under the dash and start soaking all the screws with pb blaster...also find a socket that will take a Phillips head...the glove box was my biggest PIA ...YMMV.

 

Not sure what you are attempting to do but here are the notes I made last time I removed the dash to replace the speakers

• Remove torx screws & windshield brackets above speakers
• Remove torx screws on the outer edges of the dash where speakers are
• Remove the outer most bolts connecting the sun visors and swing out of the way
• Remove screws that connect plastic pillars on windshield for soft top & (gently) remove
• Remove torx bolts that connect windshield to rollbar
• lube up windshield hinges if they are rusty, let sit for a time.. and (gently) fold down
• Remove all Phillips screws on top of dash and torx screws
• Remove speedo cluster bezel, the indicator plate comes off separately (clipped on)
• To the right of the E-Brake theres a silver plate that a harness is connected to dash bottom with 2 screws, remove that and let it hang
• Now the tricky part, find 2 boxes or something a tad higher than from the floorboard to just under the dash bottom bend.. you will use these to support the dash when you pull it out, be gentle move out a small amount on each side (swapping side to side) until you get a workable distance (note that you do not want the indicator bezel resting on the steering column) ensure you have proper support under it.

*Always use the correct size torx bit.*

 

IRQ gives a good tip, but....

FIRST...disconnect your battery (or have a fire extinguisher handy).

I sort of remember removing the steering column bolts where it connects to the bottom of the dash and allowing the steering column to rest on the drivers seat. It's been a while though.

You might want to begin with the PB Blaster on the windshield hinges a few days before you begin your project. Might help, can't hurt.

Also, repeating IRQs warning *Always use the CORRECT size torx bit.*

Good Luck, L.M.

 

Found the progress photo I took during the install to give you an idea how the dash was supported

As Luckymac stated remove negative battery cable before you mess with anything that could involve electrical.

 

What color are those seats

 

I second what sccritterkiller said. There are two screws that hold the plastic cover above the steering column on. I couldn't even get a little stubby screwdriver in there to spin them. Oh, when you put it back together, make sure you put the center dash bezel back in first. I pulled my dash out to get the heater box out and found out the hard way that the center bezel has little tabs that go BEHIND the other two bezels. Had to take the other bezels back out again to do it right, not easy when the screws love to strip. We won't talk about how many screws are holding my glove box in. Good luck!

Joe

 

What is your intent for the job? If you're tossing the dash, you can worry less and be more aggressive if needed. When I took mine off, I already knew I wasn't going back. Actually it was all pretty easy once the windshield is down.

 

I converted my gray interior to spice. I like it much better. Here’s some old photos when I first did it.

 

You have to fold the windshield forward to get to the screws along the top of the dash. My windshield hinges were frozen with rust. I soaked them with penetrating oil and allowed the penetrating oil to soak overnight. I disconnected the roll bar struts and the dash brackets and gently worked the windshield frame back and forth. As I worked the w/s frame back and forth I added more penetrating oil at the hinge pins. I still broke one hinge. Since I hadn't painted the Jeep yet, all I did was weld the broken hinge and the heat from welding loosened the rust to the point that I could fold the w/s frame down completely. That was 6 years ago when I first got my Jeep.
A couple years later I was able to fold the w/s frame forward enough to access the dash screws so that I could remove the dash panel to paint it. The hinge pins had continued to rust so I only folded the w/s frame far forward enough to get to the dash screws.

The point of this post is to warn you to be cautious when folding your w/s frame down if the hinges are tight. The rocking back and forth is what broke my hinge. The replacement aftermarket hinges don't seem to have the same quality as the OEM hinges and it's a real chore to access the nuts on the lower part of the hinges. I would try to do whatever it takes to keep the OE hinges.

OH yeah, make sure to use the correct size torx bit. Once you think you have the correct one, try the next larger size. You may have to tap the torx bit into place to overcome the paint inside the torx bolt opening.

Good Luck, L.M.