If you do a search on here for banks exhaust there was a post where a guy did dyno testing both before and after installing it.

It showed some impressive gains.

 

The only engine mod worth a dime is a supercharger. Problem with that is price and it's not an easy install.

All the other bolt on mods are worthless.

What gears are you running? A gear swap will help dramatically with towing. If you're running stock gears with 35's, that's part of your problem. Make sure if you are towing with an auto, take OD off. With a stick, stay out of 6th gear.

 

The only engine mod worth a dime is a supercharger. Problem with that is price and it's not an easy install.

All the other bolt on mods are worthless.

What gears are you running? A gear swap will help dramatically with towing. If you're running stock gears with 35's, that's part of your problem. Make sure if you are towing with an auto, take OD off. With a stick, stay out of 6th gear.

Dang! These were some quick responses. I've got the max towing package which comes with 3.73s. I've got the stock 255 tires for now. I was just wondering if they were worth it. I used to have a gmc jimmy with all the above and people swore I had a V8. What gears would I run with 35's and I have to match the front axle gears too right?

 

The Superchips Flashpaq Programmer will help with performance when you use the higher octane settings. I've heard that MPGs can be better as well depending on how you're driving. What gears are in the Jeep?

As far as CAI, TB spacers, exhaust and others, there usually isn't an appreciable increase in power in a usable power band. One other option that is pricier would be a Ripp Supercharger. That will get you more power!

-Ryan

 

Save your money, because on the 3.6, you really won't gain much, if any.

Re-gearing is the best way to improve performance..........:thumb:

 

Personally I'd go with 4.56 or 4.88. Yes, you'll have to do both axles.

 

Thanks, that's what I thought but just making sure.

 

You want a Holley 850cfm double pumper carb, an Isky RV cam, an Edelbrock Single Plane intake, Hedman headers, a Moroso deep sump oil pan and windage tray, a Mallory HEI distributor, carpenter steel valve springs, Manley stainless steel intake and exhaust valves, etc.

Too bad it isn't 1974 anymore.


Back to the real world... Nearly everything you listed [certain programmers excepted] will lighten your wallet, make more noise, will increase profit margins for their manufacturers, and reinforce the marketing campaigns that sell that stuff.

Too bad none of it is proven [using double blind testing] on an independent dyno to actually work.

 

You want a Holley 850cfm double pumper carb, an Isky RV cam, an Edelbrock Single Plane intake, Hedman headers, a Moroso deep sump oil pan and windage tray, a Mallory HEI distributor, carpenter steel valve springs, Manley stainless steel intake and exhaust valves, etc.

Too bad it isn't 1974 anymore.

Back to the real world... Nearly everything you listed [certain programmers excepted] will lighten your wallet, make more noise, will increase profit margins for their manufacturers, and reinforce the marketing campaigns that sell that stuff.

Too bad none of it is proven [using double blind testing] on an independent dyno to actually work.

Haha, if only it were that easy again...dang environment. That is true, but there has got to be some kind results to back the products, or we would have stopped buying a long time ago.

 

And for some of them, the computer will compensate so you literally gain nothing.

 

35s with the 3.6 engine, the best match is the 4.56.........:thumb:

Yes, you have to Re-gear both front and rear, at a cost of about $2,000, or maybe a little less!

 

35s with the 3.6 engine, the best match is the 4.56.........:thumb:

Yes, you have to Re-gear both front and rear, at a cost of about $2,000, or maybe a little less!

The price is why I asked if both were necessary. Thanks!

 

I'll give you the same advice I do everyone getting ready to chase HP numbers with bolt ons.

You'll end up with a lighter wallet, a louder vehicle and very minimal performance gains if not LOSSES if you don't know what your doing.

My advice if you really want to chase HP numbers is go forced induction. The upfront cost is more, but eventually you will dump that amount or more into normally aspirated mods. Trust me, I built a NA engine chasing numbers. When it was all said and done, after cams, a stroker kit, forged interals, totally rebuilt intake and more, I put well over 25k dollars into it over the years. All for about 125hp. If I had spent 6k on a single turbo kit, I could have gotten those same numbers or more.

My advice is put that money towards a supercharger or re-gearing.

 

I'll give you the same advice I do everyone getting ready to chase HP numbers with bolt ons.

You'll end up with a lighter wallet, a louder vehicle and very minimal performance gains if not LOSSES if you don't know what your doing.

My advice if you really want to chase HP numbers is go forced induction. The upfront cost is more, but eventually you will dump that amount or more into normally aspirated mods. Trust me, I built a NA engine chasing numbers. When it was all said and done, after cams, a stroker kit, forged interals, totally rebuilt intake and more, I put well over 25k dollars into it over the years. All for about 125hp. If I had spent 6k on a single turbo kit, I could have gotten those same numbers or more.

My advice is put that money towards a supercharger or re-gearing.

Appreciate it, just seeing what everyone's thoughts or experience were and it looks like a unanimous NO. Guess I'll wait for the magical HP fairy to visit.

 

TURBO!

 

TURBO!

I could only hope...be bad ass with a snorkel

 

I have added:
Volant CAI
Corsa axle back
Bully dog tuner

Jeep is much faster.. My friend with a stock 3.6 JK got pulled by 3-4 lengths.

 

I have added:
Volant CAI
Corsa axle back
Bully dog tuner

Jeep is much faster.. My friend with a stock 3.6 JK got pulled by 3-4 lengths.

Good to hear some experience...how loud is the exhaust?

 

^this statement is useless. No one knows the distance, the conditions, nothing.

Road racing or the track is not an adequate indicator of performance gains. There are a million variables that are in play. That's why it's called racing, and not "the fast car wins."

I've beaten faster cars on the track multiple times, and I've been beaten by slower cars multiple times.

 

Reckon that makes this statement useless since it not only proves my point about the first post I quoted not being a good example how much "faster" the jeep is and just elaborates on my poste you called useless.

 

I gained 3 tenths in the 1/4 with my dynomax exhaust only, 14 JKU.

 

That seems a little too good to be true honestly

 

Really, I was hoping for some real people that have used bolt on mods... Price/horsepower may be stupid, but in the end, 1 mile/gallon better gas mileage is saving money. Horsepower gains equal gas savings.

 

Couldn't have said it better. Guess I should've started this thread like that.

 

There has been lots of people bragging about installing bolt on parts over the years on this forum. We always hear about it when they do it but never hear any follow ups about all the gains they did/didn't get. Take that anyway you want.

Personally I have been and been around modding vehicles my whole life and things like throttle body spacers cold air intakes and cat back exhaust kits don't deliver the number's advertised on most vehicles. Programers seam to give the best results.

Heck everyone has their opinion. Some base them on experiences, some base them on sales pitches, and some base them on justifing money spent.

 

I did some calculations and figured out that my turbo will pay for itself in gas savings... after only about 300,000 miles!

The increased fuel economy is nice because it's not a decrease in fuel economy, and therefore no ongoing additional fuel costs forever caused by the mod. But fuel savings is not a valid reason to rationalize a power mod.


As for simple bolt-on mods, this is the most objective and helpful info I've seen about intake and exhaust: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/banks-dyno-day-326377.html

 

I did some calculations and figured out that my turbo will pay for itself in gas savings... after only about 300,000 miles!

The increased fuel economy is nice because it's not a decrease in fuel economy, and therefore no ongoing additional fuel costs forever caused by the mod. But fuel savings is not a valid reason to rationalize a power mod.

As for simple bolt-on mods, this is the most objective and helpful info I've seen about intake and exhaust: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/banks-dyno-day-326377.html

Those are some impressive numbers. I'll definitely have to look into the banks set up

 

I think this is my 4th reply to a post concerning this topic.

From my experience of adding the 3 most common mods being intake, exhaust and chip I noticed NOTHING!

That was the 3.8 07 JKR.......but, I'm also at 6k plus altitude which can and will make a difference!

My point, for a vehicle with the 3 mods near sea level you may get some gain while someone like me above a mile high wont get shit.

With the lower oxygen and atmospheric pressure at altitude and no external compression you can slap on all the crap you want. Unless it's a turbo or SC, and turbos don't help a whole hell of a-lot at altitude, it's not going to do anything to improve performance.

 

I think this is my 4th reply to a post concerning this topic.

From my experience of adding the 3 most common mods being intake, exhaust and chip I noticed NOTHING!

That was the 3.8 07 JKR.......but, I'm also at 6k plus altitude which can and will make a difference!

My point, for a vehicle with the 3 mods near sea level you may get some gain while someone like me above a mile high wont get shit.

With the lower oxygen and atmospheric pressure at altitude and no external compression you can slap on all the crap you want. Unless it's a turbo or SC, and turbos don't help a whole hell of a-lot at altitude, it's not going to do anything to improve performance.

I live at or below sea level sooo my gains should be pretty good is what you are saying?

 

"Performance" chips

 

Hemi . A proven bolt in .

 

I'd rather a Cummins 4bt

 

I have a 14 JKU with

AFE Momentum GT Intake
AFE Throttle Body Spacer
AFE Loop Delete Y-Pipe
Gibson Metal Mulisha Dual Exhaust
Superchips Trail Dash

With Nitto 35" tires

I average between 22-24 mpg after adding all the parts. I have noticed a huge increase in power with the 87 octane tune.

My suggestion is start with a Superchips programmer and add from there if you need more.

Good luck!!!

 

I have a 14 JKU with

AFE Momentum GT Intake
AFE Throttle Body Spacer
AFE Loop Delete Y-Pipe
Gibson Metal Mulisha Dual Exhaust
Superchips Trail Dash

With Nitto 35" tires

I average between 22-24 mpg after adding all the parts. I have noticed a huge increase in power with the 87 octane tune.

My suggestion is start with a Superchips programmer and add from there if you need more.

Good luck!!!

Thank you, I'm going to need it apparently

 

^what kind of dyno?

 

:beerdrinking: I own a Drag strip.

 

I didn't know they had a 15 model out yet or is this for the near future

 

Yeah, the dealer said they just got them in and that mine was the first one sold.

 

When did they come out!!

I thought it would be a couple of months. I'm very surprised!!!

 

No clue, I'm guessing a little over a week...I just bought it on Saturday. I test drove it with all the plastic on the inside. It was like driving grandma's couch

 

One year I drove to Daytona from Chattanooga with 37s on 4.11 gears. I got about 11.2 MPG avg for the trip. While there I purchased a RIPP Supercharger and installed it in one day. (I planned this out). I drove home in 5th gear at 17.5 MPGs. 6th gear the RPMs were too low for the power gain from boost. In 6th for a while I averaged 12.5 or so.
I later regeared to 4.88. I drive interstate daily running 80 in 6th at about 13.5-14.5 MPG. If I go to work on the highway and keep speeds at 55 or so I run about 16.5-17. This is in the mountains of Tennessee. with 37” tires and 4.88 gears I run 80 at about 3000 RPMs and the throttle is barely pushed. But based on the math in low 4 I am still running the same crawl speed as it was when factory.
In short get the supercharger. Realistically the sooner you get it the more you get out of your money. I will have to own the Jeep forever for fuel savings to be made up, but there is something to also be said about having a vehicle perform the way you want it. A weak vehicle gives you three options in maneuvers. Brake, turn left, turn right. A strong powered vehicle adds the option to accelerate. Sometimes that’s better when it’s an option.

 

Nitrous!

More seriously, regear to 4.56.