I don't have one. I like the idea. But, like you, I don't like the idea of using it with the plastic housing, especially with the cleat locking mechanism essentially trying to distort the plastic threads. If my Jeep sits for more than a day or 2, I just use the "clear-out" feature to build oil pressure before starting.

 

What is this "clear out" method you are speaking of? In North Dakota 3 seconds in -30 degrees is an eternity for oil to build pressure.

 

Yeah that is a good option...But most of the time I forget and use the remote start as I am walking up. DOH!

 

I bought and installed this product 2014 Jeep JK 2 door 3.6 Pentastar. I too had the start up rattle for 5-6 seconds after it sat overnight. IN SHORT - It brought my rattle down to 1-2 seconds or much shorter of a time and allows me to use a Mobil 1 spin on filter.

Install - Very well built and fairly easy install. Because it is holding the oil up in the spin on filter for the next startup, It has a schrader valve on the side of the unit which needs per Baxter a min 30psi / max 140psi for about 3-5 seconds to open the valve holding the oil and drain the oil from the filter to the drain pan during oil changes. The air pressure pushes the oil through the filter and down into the pan so you do not have a mess when taking off your filter. Normally this pressure comes from the engine oil pressure while running. The install allows you to orientate the final position of the unit so that the schrader valve is accessible and pointing in the right direction during oil change. I had to screw on the unit, set the locking teeth and then install the schrader valve due to engine items getting in the way during install. This all makes sense when you watch the install video or printed instructions.

FINAL THOUGHTS - Expensive, but the wear at startup being reduced is an engine longevity issue and I would buy this again. I also LOVE having a regular spin on filter even though there is an extra step to replace it. Everything is metal and well built. I had expected NO RATTLE AT ALL, but found it was only greatly reduced, yet still worth t the purchase.

 

Try a different brand of oil filter. I used several including the M1 and K&N race filter and settled on the WIX XP filters. It by far has the best anti drain back valve on any that I've tried. it only took me 11 years and a 110k miles to figure it out................

 

Well that is a great idea. I will do that in the next week and report back. Either way this Baxter product gave me the ability to get different spin on filters. Again, outstanding idea. I was always so stuck on Mobil 1, but if it solves the problem.................
I checked the Baxter website and it looks like I need a WIX 57045XP oil filter. I have one coming in on 12/10 so I should have results next week after the cold start ups.

 

so when changing the filter being upside down, a mess? or is that drain plug i see?

 

What you see is a Schrader valve. You apply air pressure like a bike tire tube valve for 3-4 seconds which opens the internal valve and pushes the oil through the filter and down into the drain pan. This allows you to change the filter with little to no mess. You need a min of 30psi / max 140psi of continuous air pressure per Baxter Performance from other posts I have read. I am sure 30-40psi would be just fine.

 

Ok. In short it works great now. I applied the air pressure for 3-4 seconds to the schrader valve. The Mobil 1 oil filter was clean and NOT DRIPPING. Easy change out to the NEW WIX 57045XP oil filter. Now to test if this new oil filter works better at keeping the oil up in the chamber. I completed 5 morning cold overnight startups in a row. The engine had NO CLATTER. Previously I had a 1 second clatter with the Mobil 1 filter, now I have NO CLATTER at startup.

CONCLUSION: What worked for me with my 3.6 Pentastar engine: Baxter Performance Anti-Drain Adapter along with the WIX 57045XP oil filter. I don't know what the difference in oil filters was to solve this problem, but the WIX worked better. I have no idea which oil filter works better at filtering, but the WIX stopped the clatter at start up.

 

The wix filter tested very well performance filtering from what I read. Not to have that cold start clatter was worth it to me. Must be a different material compound in the wix valve that makes the difference. Glad you like it better.

 

Thanks for the review! Great information. Next question...
What about the first start after an oil change? There would be no oil in the filter..
How do you handle that? Crank with gas pedal fully to the floor, to keep the engine from firing until oil has been pumped through the system?

 

Yes. That would be an excellent suggestion for the first crank after an oil change. I concur.

 

hold your gas pedal to the floor and crank the key. The jeep won't start if it sees the pedal all the way down so the starter motor turning it over will still spin the oil pump and build some pressure. Less turns to oil at the top of the motor that way than if you just fire it.

 

My only concern would be voiding any engine warranty you may have left.


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WIX 57045XP oil filter

 

Baxter site [<- site link] is currently listing "WIX 57502, Mobil1 M1-212 or equivalent" and not the WIX 57045XP listed in posts above.

I see there are differences in overall size and bypass pressure of these WIX filters discussed. Was this considered in your previous preferences, or is the listing of the 57502 by Baxter a new change in recommendation?

I've only recently added the adapter to my 2015 3.6 and am due to for the first fluid change since doing so, so I'm interested in whatever data and experience may be out there. I'm currently running the 57502XP without issues, but haven't done any formal backpressure testing or autopsy to gather contrary data. Has anyone else?

 

Baxter site [<- site link] is currently listing "WIX 57502, Mobil1 M1-212 or equivalent" and not the WIX 57045XP listed in posts above.

I see there are differences in overall size and bypass pressure of these WIX filters discussed. Was this considered in your previous preferences, or is the listing of the 57502 by Baxter a new change in recommendation?

I've only recently added the adapter to my 2015 3.6 and am due to for the first fluid change since doing so, so I'm interested in whatever data and experience may be out there. I'm currently running the 57502XP without issues, but haven't done any formal backpressure testing or autopsy to gather contrary data. Has anyone else?

I just ordered another Baxter Performance adapter for my 2013 Wrangler (Preventative, rattle was eliminated after replacing cam phasers). The 2013 had a different adapter than the 2014+. After I swapped the oil filter housing for newer design my previously installed Baxter adapter would not work on a 2014+ housing.

For clarification (oil filter housing):
-2013: 57045XP
2014+ WIX 57502XP

The oil drain back valve between filters is rated at different psi.

 

I,m going to install one soon ,I like the concept and have watched videos and read about it and it seems like a good idea.My question is the filter is on top of the engine ,the pan is on the bottom ,so the distance from the pan to the filter is still empty so I believe there still will be a period of time where there will be no oil until it reaches the filter which yes does have oil but again the oil has to reach the filter through the empty "lines/ passage ways" to start pushing it through the engine.

 

Are you Not worried that the weight of the Baxter will eventually fracture the oil cooler housing When simply over tightening the filter cap can crack the housing?

 

No, especially with an aluminum housing and if the oil filter is only hand tightened.

 

Another thing to consider is that the bypass valve pressure between the Wix 57045XP and Wix 57502XP are different. 57045XP 12-15psi and 57502XP 22psi.

The lower psi is better for frequent cold starts helping to prevent "dry" start conditions. I have both filters on the shelf and the 57045XP is nearly twice as tall (volume).