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I appreciate it but they are showing out of stock and a estimate shipping date. I really wanted to find something sooner or at least have a guaranteed date.

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Yeah, this shock is pretty backordered. If you want it so soon keep looking, search used, or pick another shock. Sorry.
 
I sent everyone PMs yesterday that mentioned you had shocks for sale .

Anyone know anything about these?




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I have the 9550's on my daughters JK. The Rancho 5000X are MUCH better.
 
I am surprised you aren't buying the shocks as part of your 2.5" lift kit. That way you would end up with shocks that match your springs (as long as you bought a decent kit).
Otherwise, before I suggest shocks I would need to know what springs you are going with.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I am surprised you aren't buying the shocks as part of your 2.5" lift kit. That way you would end up with shocks that match your springs (as long as you bought a decent kit).
Otherwise, before I suggest shocks I would need to know what springs you are going with.
Not doing an entire lift, just these.

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Not doing an entire lift, just these.

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Just those? Not a good idea... Lacking lots of parts for even a basic lift.

You're missing sway bar links, brake line relocation, bump stops, track bar bracket, caster correction and shocks...

 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
It is my understanding, I could go with just the spacers and use my factory springs to get 33s under it. That way I’m not changing a lot under the jeep.


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Consider the Rancho kit that includes shocks and springs for a good ride that will fit the 33's you want
 
It is my understanding, I could go with just the spacers and use my factory springs to get 33s under it. That way I’m not changing a lot under the jeep.


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I would not recommend that. Lifting a Jeep requires more than just spring spacers. If all you want is to run 33’s I would suggest a leveling kit instead of a lift. I think that would be a smarter option.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I would not recommend that. Lifting a Jeep requires more than just spring spacers. If all you want is to run 33’s I would suggest a leveling kit instead of a lift. I think that would be a smarter option.
So which 2.5 lift, with shocks do you recommend? Like to keep the price around $600.00 for parts. This is just a toy, not a daily driver.


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So which 2.5 lift, with shocks do you recommend? Like to keep the price around $600.00 for parts. This is just a toy, not a daily driver.


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I really would not recommend any lift at that price point. A good 2.5” lift is going to run a grand or more. If that is your budget I would suggest a leveling kit instead of a lift. For example, the Teraflex performance leveling kit that uses springs instead of spacers.
But if you really want a lift in that price range the only one I can recommend is the Rancho 2” progressive spring lift that was just mentioned by @StingerZ16 That lift will give you around 2.4” up front and around 1.5” in back. It will lift and level. You may want to add either geometry brackets or lower front control arms to correct caster. When you lift a Jeep caster decreases. Too little caster makes for a nervous and poor driving Jeep.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I don’t really have a budget, just trying not to let myself get carried away. Which I’ve been known to do.

How about a lift and shocks around a $1,000?


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I don’t really have a budget, just trying not to let myself get carried away. Which I’ve been known to do.

How about a lift and shocks around a $1,000?


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I paid around $1k for an AEV 2.5" lift kit with Bilstein 5100's. Just hardware, no install. Figure $800 for install at $100/hr for the shop rate. That will vary. If you do the work yourself, then no shop rate.
 
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Consider the Rancho kit that includes shocks and springs for a good ride that will fit the 33's you want
+1 for the Rancho Sport System. I have this with the 9000 shocks and also added the Rancho geo correction brackets which were another $180 I think. Great ride, with the 9000s set at 3 the ride is much improved over stock.

Question for the people that self-installed the Bilstein shocks, how did you manage the top connection on the front shocks? I just helped my neighbor change out his original OEM shocks for the Bilsteins, and I have to say we hated the design of the top attachment point for the front shocks. Instead of an attachment point for a wrench on the rod to keep the rod from spinning when you tighten the top nut, the Bilsteins have a hex key indent on the top of the rod. The problem is it's impossible to get the hex key in there on the passenger side. On the driver side we were able to pass an extended hex wrench through a small opening in a plastic mounting plate above the shock connection point to tighten that one. On the passenger side we ended up using a vice grip on the rob to prevent it from spinning.
 
If you don't have the money to do it right don't do it, save a bit more and do it right the first time. For 33's you really don't even need to lift it. You have a couple of options here, one would be to get some take off springs and swap them in. You have a 2 door and it will have the smaller springs in it, look to get a set of 19/60 springs. It will give you a smallish lift and you don't have to change anything else. Of you can look at the Teraflex leveling kit. Does not require anything else and works great.

For shocks I am not a fan of Bilstein shock unless you are planning to autocross the vehicle. There shocks pretty much across the board are digressive, great for handling but poor for ride quality. I would look at maybe Rancho 9000's on the low end, on the high end King OEM performance custom tuned by AccuTune.
 
+1 for the Rancho Sport System. I have this with the 9000 shocks and also added the Rancho geo correction brackets which were another $180 I think. Great ride, with the 9000s set at 3 the ride is much improved over stock.

Question for the people that self-installed the Bilstein shocks, how did you manage the top connection on the front shocks? I just helped my neighbor change out his original OEM shocks for the Bilsteins, and I have to say we hated the design of the top attachment point for the front shocks. Instead of an attachment point for a wrench on the rod to keep the rod from spinning when you tighten the top nut, the Bilsteins have a hex key indent on the top of the rod. The problem is it's impossible to get the hex key in there on the passenger side. On the driver side we were able to pass an extended hex wrench through a small opening in a plastic mounting plate above the shock connection point to tighten that one. On the passenger side we ended up using a vice grip on the rob to prevent it from spinning.
Take a Dremel tool and cut in a small slot.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
If you don't have the money to do it right don't do it, save a bit more and do it right the first time. AccuTune[/URL].
It isn’t about the money I have but the money I’m willing to spend. All I care about is it being safe for the very limited Road time it will see. I thought by adding just the spring spacers I was fine, apparently not.

Back to the drawing board.

Thanks


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