Better and adjustable shocks would be what I would do.

 

i don't know about the anti rocks at high speed. That can be very dangerous.

 

Saw this thread while searching, so I think I am ok given his setup.

Maybe @Groper will stop by and give his 2 cents on my questions?

 

D30 (or D44) will not be up to the task of anything high speed with the additional weight of bigger wheels/tires. You'll want some type of HD 44 for that task. 60 is probably too big/heavy. Here are a couple of examples:

Dynatrac DA44-3010- ProRock 44 Housing with Rebuild able Ball Joints for 07-17 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with OE Electric Locker | Quadratec

Teraflex Tera44 TF44 Axle Assembly for 07-17 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with RHD | Quadratec



You'll want some type of bump stop made for pre-running, here's a few examples:

Teraflex 1958400 SpeedBumps Bump Stop Kit for 07-17 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 4" Lift | Quadratec

King Off Road Racing Shocks 20001-150 King Hydraulic Bump Stops for 07-17 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK | Quadratec

Fox® Racing Shox 883-02-128 Rear IFP Threaded Bump Stop Kit for 07-17 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK | Quadratec

Misc other items:
Skid plates, all of them. (CAs, engine, trans, transfer, EVAP (or relocate), fuel)
HD diff covers


You'll want to gear correctly for your tire size.
Since when do Saharas come with a rear OEM e-locker?? Do you have a special edition? If by chance you do have a factory elocker it is only available in 4LO, but you can make it available in 4HI with a programmer.



Good luck :thumb:

 

You'll want to gear correctly for your tire size.
Since when do Saharas come with a rear OEM e-locker?? Do you have a special edition? If by chance you do have a factory elocker it is only available in 4LO, but you can make it available in 4HI with a programmer.



Good luck :thumb:

Good info here, lots of learning for me to do.

Yes, 75th Anniversary edition had a lot of upgrades available to it, Rubi rails standard as well as 10th Anniversary steel bumpers and hood, plus the tru-lok option for the rear (only, not front). I think it was $1500 for the e-locker option.

 

Get some King coilovers. :worthy::worthy::worthy:

 

From what I am reading the 6pak shocks from MC are just as capable.

Matson from MC is a friend of a friend on Facebook, has been a good resource!

We have several customers running with 6paks and King air bumps - creating a great Pre-Runner set up

 

Softer, quicker reacting springs, softer shocks, heavier axles, or buy a raptor. They are built for that.

 

I think you are going to need to upgrade your D30. Cheap gusset, truss and I would sleeve, save money for when it breaks. Even with a D44 or pro rock 44 I would gusset and truss.

 

I've been thinking of moving to front 44 for a while now, just wasn't sure it was worth the investment.

I'm expecting $12-15k more in the next 6-7 months, about 2-2.5k per month

Short list of upgrades (prices include labor):

• $3500 = 6pak shocks kit + 2x King Off Road Racing Shocks 20001-150 Bump Stops
• $6000 = Dynatrac ProRock 44 w/ Ball Joints and 4.88 gears
• $2000 = UnderCloak Integrated Armor + 2x Poison Spyder Bombshell Diff Cover
• $2000 = BF Goodrich 37x12.50/R17 KO2's

Q1. Why can't I find Eaton Front Dana 44 E-Locker (3.92+)?
Q2. Is it worth trimming my Sahara body-color fenders or go for something like MC's Overland Fenders?

I'll try to sell my 5x 35" BF Goodrich KO2's, D30 w/ 3.73 and my Old Man Emu Long Travel Nitrocharger Sport shocks.

 

If you're set on speed running, look into Ori Struts. Adjusted with Nitrogen, no sway bars, bump stops, or limiting straps. Coilovers are kinda the "go to" because most people think they're the end all in suspensions. They cycle faster without heating up than coilovers and easier to set up. http://oristruts.com/stx-strut.html

 

If you're set on speed running, look into Ori Struts. Adjusted with Nitrogen, no sway bars, bump stops, or limiting straps. Coilovers are kinda the "go to" because most people think they're the end all in suspensions. They cycle faster without heating up than coilovers and easier to set up. STX Strut

Thanks, do you need reservoirs, integral, what size? Also 22"? That's +50% the price, gulp.

 

High speed desert running? You need a different vehicle with IFS...
Were Jeeps ever really made for high speed anything?

 

I would ditch the locker thoughts and go with True Tracs. I do not like the handeling at speed/drifting with lockers, but in my experience the True Tracs worked excellent under braking, acceleration and off throttle.
You will want to disable all the electrical nannies. There are instructions on how to do so on this site. They sap your speed, and, in my opinion make the vehicle unpredictable and unresponsive... I like them on the street driving like a responsible person, but in the dirt at speed they are down right dangerous. My opinion).
Put a heavy D44 up front, and truss and gusset it, and truss the rear.
Reinforce all mounting points for the control arms both at the axle and at the chassis... same for springs/shocks.
My experience with traveling fast in the desert is... even if you do not intend on being airborne... it's going to happen. That's when axle housings and suspension mounts get destroyed.

 

Good stuff, you are running 35's @ 5.13? Seems pretty bold, no problems?

Not sure about downgrading my e-locker to LSD in the rear, but I am ok with LSD in the front. Maybe at some point down the road...

 

FYI...the I believe the d44 locker is the same front and rear..... no difference in the two and there is no carrier break. You might want to fact check me though

 

Guess you will likely be running with the e-locker off (hi range) anyways, so no biggie.
5.13's and 35's. I like it a lot. I'm quite comfortable with 3200rpm on the highway (72-75ish mph), but I really like the control in the rocks. I rarely use 1st gear on the street. There are times in the rocks when I wish I had gone 5.38's. Again, the gearing was selected more for "control" in the rocks than road manners or going briskly. I did not like 4.10's and 35's.
Definitely get good bumpstops. If I could not afford both quality shocks and quality BS's at the same time, I would spend money on quality bumpstops and run the OME shocks you have while you replenish your piggy bank. Everyone likes to talk about shock fade, but in my limited experience, I never had noticeable shock fade when I used to run my XJ hard for 10-20 minutes at a time. I did however wish repeatedly that I had quality bumpstops.

 

Currie anti-rocks are absolutely safe for high speed applications.

I'd say run the 35's, then upgrade later if you want. You're increasing your rotating mass every time you go bigger with the tires, and that just stresses parts. 37's are the new 35's, or so it seems lately, but they aren't necessary. When you're crawling at 2 mph up rocks, sure, why not. But at speed, across the desert, not reeeeeally needed. Just more weight to stress more parts to cause more failures (potentially/eventually)

 

:thumb:

37" KO2's are like normal 35's, and weigh less than +5 lbs more per tire, should be fine, I assume, right? Getting a good deal on 5 of them, brand new but less than the cost of 4 new from any retailer. Plus I should be able to get 800-900 for my 35's to defray most of the costs.

4.88 or 5.13 gearing if these 37's sit at 35.5" @4-5k feet above sea level?

 

Fyi I think the speed bumps mentioned might negate the uptravel benefit part of the 6pak shocks you were considering. I would take a look at this thread first to figure that out: http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63156

If you're convinced on going the 6pak route and the speed bumps won't work MC offers sumo springs also.

Edit: Saw you were going with the Kings but I would double check on that too.

 

Fyi I think the speed bumps mentioned might negate the uptravel benefit part of the 6pak shocks you were considering. I would take a look at this thread first to figure that out: Who's Got Speed Bumps? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum

If you're convinced on going the 6pak route and the speed bumps won't work MC offers sumo springs also.

Edit: Saw you were going with the Kings but I would double check on that too.

Matson from MC is a friend on FB, I started a convo with him and he said they have several customers run that exact setup for pre-running, so sounds good to me!

 

I did 4.88 with my Toyos (37/13.5/17) that measure 35 3/4 currently. Wish I had gone 5.13. And that's in OK with an elevation of 700 feet.

 

Yep, done a lot of research, even with the short 37's, 5.13 seems the way to go (and NOT numerically higher).

 

5.13s for the hills around you with a JKU and all that weight. I have 4.56s/35s in SoCal- she is a DD and rock crawler and I do like my 4.56s. But I also like speed so almost wish I 'd done 4.88s. Guessing that's you so bump it up for JKU weight and 37s- 5.13s. Like Baby says.
Someone did recently post 2800-3000ish RPMs with 5.13s on the freeway. Which for some reason makes people think the Jeep will explode. I kind of chuckle at that but at the same time isn't your speed limit 70 MPH? If you plan to roll at 80 MPH as a DD you may want to give that some thought. Not too much- just a little. LOL. Or are you ok getting passed by grannies? Every time I tell myself to drive 70 MPH to try and get over 13 MPG...it lasts about 5 minutes.
I thought early on I wanted a pre-runner set-up and did the Mopar 3" with the TF hydraulic bumpstops. They do make a big difference but sounds like there are better options with shocks now. (That was 2012).

 

unk:

 

Vote for 5.13's whether you go 35's or 37's.
Probably spend most of your time in 2nd and 3rd running hard.
I would not pay much attention to 1st gear, it's so short you likely will not be grabbing it very often, so, the increased rpm that 2nd will give you at lower speeds will be welcome... and on the real slow corners you can grab 1st on corner entry to help set the rear (Scandinavian flick anyone?) then grab second on turn-in, carry the throttle/slide and exit hard. We're only talking a couple hundred rpm at those speeds, but it will be welcome to help get the rears spinning.
If we were talking big old V8's that run out of steam at 4500rpm I'd feel differently, but these little 3.6's want to be up over 4000rpm to make 'em go.

 

I got an auto trans. :tomatoes:

 

don't they all have the select-shift or whatever it's called?

 

Yes but it sucks. And certainly not usable for this kind of application. Over 50+ it drops into 5th and out of manual mode. And if it doesn't like your RPMs in the lower gears it'll over-ride you and shift there too.

 

Interested to see how this plays out. Personally I'd sell the jeep and build a trophy truck lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The slapstick shift in the auto is worth its weight in gold Offroad. I never use it on the street, but all the time Offroad. 37s/5.13/auto.

The guy running 3000rpm at like 60 has 33s or 34s with 5.13. So does my son (manual) - he originally wanted 37s so geared that low, but took him on a few trails and he can crawl that thing with the 4:1 and think he has 34s (aka metric that really arent 35).

The 3.6 is happiest in the 2700-3000 rpm range - someone put a chart up that I can't find of course, that's where maximum torque and horsepower curve is.

Desert prerunning and solid axle do not compute. That's why I think most of the folks that do King of Hammers type stuff have IFS.

 

Desert prerunning and solid axle do not compute. That's why I think most of the folks that do King of Hammers type stuff have IFS.

I dunno about that. Plenty of guys have won koh with a solid axle. But, koh also includes sections of rock crawling. Maybe ifs is better, but I don't think you can say you can't do it with a solid axle.

 

In the unlimited class, or whatever it's called, they way they bash/smash/bounce through the rock sections they rely on HP and momentum, "flex" is not at the forefront of requirements so the buggies are going IFS to make up time on the remainder of the course... I don't have all the facts, but, looking at it from a distance perspective, about 95% of the course is high speed.
IFS would be my choice as well, but that's not to say you cannot set a up solid axle rig up to perform well and have a tonne of fun. My XJ was pretty simple, and flat hauled the mail... 'course it only weighed 3000lbs.

 

You are right most of it is high speed...... in the rocks. The desert/ fast portion is in no way 95% of the course. These guys are running trails in 15 mins that take 3 hours to do in a Jeep. As far as running fast goes IFS is the best way to go. A well built buggy with less HP will put in faster times then a SFA buggy with more HP. That being said it wasn't that long ago that everyone in Ultra4 was running only SFA builds but things have advanced miles in the last few years. If you think they don't have much travel then you haven't seen one in action.

 

I've been, but, I'll admit I'm not all that into it... I mean, I love it as a spectator but it's so far advanced machinery wise, I don't keep up with the tech. I never said they don't have much travel, so yes, tonnes of travel, but I think we would both agree that IFS still does not "flex(what I said)/articulate" quite to the same level as soild axle... but the way these guy drive/abuse the machinery, their rigs don't translate well to what the average Joe is going to build/can afford.
I believe we are both saying the same thing, and no need to muddy this up further.
So, I'm out with regards to the KOH discussion.

 

So, with regard to the high speed build, I need to concede that I am no loner into it and here's why...
Several years ago I was hauling the mail, came into a mid speed corner, my pal who was scanning well ahead for traffic/danger and I both were comfortable the coast was clear (low brush, and we had just come down from elevation, so we had a real good view ahead of time of the area), I set the rig sideways before we entered the corner(Scandinavian flick), got on the gas to continue the slide and was set to tear it up, and, just then noticed some orange triangle flags above the brush, having no idea what was there I aborted, took to the shrubs/trees on the outside of the turn... as we were leaving the road a family on quads popped into sight. Did some minor damage to the rig, most of it hood grill fenders... went up on 2 wheels briefly but did not flip.
There were kids on those quads, I'm talking like 5-10 year old kids, in addition to the adults...
I've never driven fast on the trails/dirt roads since.
Scared the living hell out of me... didn't care about the rig, but, my good god that could have been hell.
They asked if we were ok, and carried on... they must have been in the brush getting some shade rest then came back out on the trail... there was no sign of them on the road before we got there.
That was it for me.

So, when you get your build completed, be carefull.

 

queueing up first big purchase, given up trying to get 37's on the cheap, 4wp seems to have a decent sale going on right now albeit a little confusing, not sure if it is 70 off or 140 off a set of 5 37" KO2's

$1635 5x 37
$986 Dynatrac ProGrip Brake Set (4x)
$248 Master Cylinder Booster
$471 King Shocks FRONT Hydraulic Bump Stops (Part #KST20001-150)
$721 King Shocks REAR Hydraulic Bump Stops (Part #KST20001-151)
====
$4061
hoping to get a decent discount on labor due to large purchase, we'll see

Should the rear hydraulic bump stops cost almost twice as much as the front or am I looking at the wrong part number?

 

So I have the King Shocks Hydraulic Bump Stops installed.

I have been researching 6-pak shocks and the leaking after 2-years has me concerned. I have read reports of people needing to get all 4 rebuilt 3 times in 1 year at $75 per rebuild.

Someone had mentioned King 2.5's, can someone link me to either a setup of 4 or 2 front and 2 rear? I have 3.5" MC long travel lift.

This is what I am looking at:

2x rear


1x front (driver)

1x front (passenger)

 

Can't speak to the King Shocks other than I know they are top notch. Concerning the 6-pak shocks if someone is having that much problem there is a problem with the hard parts, not the soft parts. I have had mine on for about a year now and have had no problems whats so ever.