[vanhalo]

Also, don't use the seals that come with the dorman. Something is leaking already after fewer than 18K and I think it is the seals. I've contact dorman and they confirmed they have had some reports about this and are looking into it. I've ordered some factory mopar seals for the housing but there's no equivalent for the upper cooler. I'll likely have to use the dorman or some third party chinesiums (red...which is hopefully viton and not nitril/buna). I'll report back once I dig into the job.

I enjoyed the job so much the first time around that I'm doing it a second time apparently...

yeah this is my concern. I assume yours is not leaking from the oil cooler side.
The only other option is to buy the OEM cooler and use the uppers seals from it.
But they are crushed already.

 

[neil12011]

Also, don't use the seals that come with the dorman. Something is leaking already after fewer than 18K and I think it is the seals. I've contact dorman and they confirmed they have had some reports about this and are looking into it. I've ordered some factory mopar seals for the housing but there's no equivalent for the upper cooler. I'll likely have to use the dorman or some third party chinesiums (red...which is hopefully viton and not nitril/buna). I'll report back once I dig into the job.

I enjoyed the job so much the first time around that I'm doing it a second time apparently...

Good call. Went ahead and ordered all Mopar seals except for the ones @vanhalo mentioned, as they aren't available separately, and even on the new OEM plastic housing, are already installed (squished) in place. I'll report back after my undertaking!

 

[dmulk]

Good call. Went ahead and ordered all Mopar seals except for the ones @vanhalo mentioned, as they aren't available separately, and even on the new OEM plastic housing, are already installed (squished) in place. I'll report back after my undertaking!

I ordered these in red. Hopefully they turn out to be viton. I'll be trying the upper cooler seals only and sticking with the mopar OEM for the OFH. YMMV.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803652452515.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.4.46e4f19cPBj11K&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

<D>

 

[dmulk]

yeah this is my concern. I assume yours is not leaking from the oil cooler side.
The only other option is to buy the OEM cooler and use the uppers seals from it.
But they are crushed already.

View attachment 4573485

I think I see residue where the Dorman's are leaking. See my other reply for another Chinesium option to try...

 

[neil12011]

For what it's worth, I bought an endoscope on Amazon ($80.00 and totally worth it) to scope the bottom of the oil filter housing/cooler. It looks like the trouble area is where the cooler/filter housing meets the block. I think the seals are the issue most of the time, not the assembly itself. Not that the plastic is helping though.

 

[CVJeepDude]

For what it's worth, I bought an endoscope on Amazon ($80.00 and totally worth it) to scope the bottom of the oil filter housing/cooler. It looks like the trouble area is where the cooler/filter housing meets the block. I think the seals are the issue most of the time, not the assembly itself. Not that the plastic is helping though.

You have a link to the scope you bought, assuming it works and you're happy with it? I've looked at them before, but always felt like it was a crap-shoot on whether it would be any good.

 

[vanhalo]

DEPSTECH Triple Lens Borescope Inspection Camera, 5"IPS Screen Endoscope Camera with Lights,1080P Sewer Camera and 180°Flip Button, 16.5ft IP67 Cable, Ease of Use, Tool for Wall, Automotive, Plumbing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

DEPSTECH Triple Lens Borescope Inspection Camera, 5"IPS Screen Endoscope Camera with Lights,1080P Sewer Camera and 180°Flip Button, 16.5ft IP67 Cable, Ease of Use, Tool for Wall, Automotive, Plumbing: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[neil12011]

You have a link to the scope you bought, assuming it works and you're happy with it? I've looked at them before, but always felt like it was a crap-shoot on whether it would be any good.

I think they're honestly all the same given that price range. Super handy to see exactly what's going on in the nooks and/or cranny's of those cramped engine confines.

 

[Philb252]

Replaced at 7 yrs, 60k, unknown how long it had been seeping before that. Dealership did the job for about $1100. 2015 JKU manual trans.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[fourpointzero]

I'm at 50,300, non-issue. But, I also change my own oil. So mine has never seen the over torque. Plus, mine is a 2013. The real problem started in 2014, with the new design.

Ya, my 2013 didn't fail but the oil pressure sensor did. A new cooler comes with the two sensors and even an oil filter, so I changed it out all together.

 

[D Robs]

Bought the Jeep with 75k on it and am at 90k now. I'm hoping the previous owner already changed it. Otherwise I'll deal with it when it happens.

 

[mark.brodell]

Now that I've done it, I would say if it hasn't developed a problem by the time you get around to changing the spark plugs, do the oil cooler replacement at the same time. And if you do end up needing to do it due to a leak or faulty sensor, go ahead and do the spark plugs at that time.

For that matter pull the injectors and either replace them or take then in to an injector cleaning service while you have it torn apart.

 

[Romokid]

My son works at a local garage and they have had couple customers come in with the leaking oil coolers and want the aluminum Doormans installed instead of Mopar. Shortly thereafter they were back with leaking oil coolers again. Now they tell customers that they won't install the Doormans. I'm torn which way to go, granted I only have 65k on the odometer and it has started leaking yet but I want to have a plan for when it does.

 

[jeep63]

My son works at a local garage and they have had couple customers come in with the leaking oil coolers and want the aluminum Doormans installed instead of Mopar. Shortly thereafter they were back with leaking oil coolers again. Now they tell customers that they won't install the Doormans. I'm torn which way to go, granted I only have 65k on the odometer and it has started leaking yet but I want to have a plan for when it does.

Since I have a 2013, I went with an OEM one; most of the leaks I hear about seem to be 14+; this is anecdotal though.

I would never take the time to replace it unless there is a need. Sure, be prepared for it, but don't do it if you have zero issues. As for the Dorman one, I wonder about the orings used when the replacement was done. They are likely the culprit.

Just remember it is NOT HARD to replace the oil cooler, it just takes a while and is buried deep and this scares many people.

 

[DiamondMox]

Since I have a 2013, I went with an OEM one; most of the leaks I hear about seem to be 14+; this is anecdotal though.

In 14 they changed the design of the housing to address the oil bypass valve breaks that the 12s and 13s where experiencing. In doing so it would appear they changed something else because yes, 14+ have way more issues with it leaking, but the flip side is they don't have oil bypass valves breaking and occasionally falling in the top of the motor. Specifically what else changed I have not seen anybody figure out.

 

[Romokid]

Since I have a 2013, I went with an OEM one; most of the leaks I hear about seem to be 14+; this is anecdotal though.

I would never take the time to replace it unless there is a need. Sure, be prepared for it, but don't do it if you have zero issues. As for the Dorman one, I wonder about the orings used when the replacement was done. They are likely the culprit.

Just remember it is NOT HARD to replace the oil cooler, it just takes a while and is buried deep and this scares many people.

Yeah mine is a 2016 and it's not leaking at this point. If it does, I plan on doing it myself as you mentioned it's not difficult but just time consuming as since it is buried. Hell if my JKU develops the dreaded ticking sound I am contemplating doing that repair myself too. Doesn't look too complicated but again just time consuming.

 

[fourpointzero]

My son works at a local garage and they have had couple customers come in with the leaking oil coolers and want the aluminum Doormans installed instead of Mopar. Shortly thereafter they were back with leaking oil coolers again. Now they tell customers that they won't install the Doormans. I'm torn which way to go, granted I only have 65k on the odometer and it has started leaking yet but I want to have a plan for when it does.

I went Mopar with my replacement. And regretted that I didn't get the Dorman. But now hearing people coming back to replace the Dorman, I'm fine with my choice. And if it craps out, I decided that I'll go in and do it. It only gets easier, right? 🤬🤬🤬

 

[neil12011]

Just to update the group. The Dorman aluminum unit is in. I used all MOPAR OEM seals except the ones that mount the cooler to the housing (as @vanhalo has mentioned are not available separately). So far so good, no leaks. I'm checking weekly with my cheap endoscope to make sure. If anyone goes the Dorman route, toss the seals that come with it and get the OEM ones.

 

[pumapanzer]

Hello, thanks for everyone's help in this thread. I wanted to share some of my observations with the Dorman 926-959 kit.

I am working on a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2-door 6-speed with a 3.6L V6 Pentastar engine and about 99,500 miles. Knock on wood, the Jeep hasn't had any leaks and drives great.

I am upgrading/installing several items (suspension, axles, lockers, compressor, intake, winch, armor, etc.) and want to freshen the engine up a bit. Essentially, I want to address some of the common problems that may occur with this engine:

• Tune-up
  • Install new ignition coils and spark plugs
  • Install new Mopar PCV valve
    • Install oil baffle/catch can inline with PCV hose
• Preventative maintenance on cooling system
  • Drain and flush coolant
  • Replace thermostat ("rationality" code set twice)
  • Replace radiator cap
  • Upgrade hoses to HPS/Mishimoto silicone hoses
  • Install Mishimoto coolant filter
  • Upgrade oil filter housing
• Prevent valve train wear on camshaft followers/rockers
  • Install Baxter Performance canister filter adapter to prevent oil drain back

I had not intended to replace the oil filter housing, but the oil cooler return hose was impossible to access without removing the oil filter housing. I searched and found out about the oil filter housing issues with this engine, that persist to later model vehicles using the same engine, LoL. Since I was going to be this far into the engine's valley to access the hose, I decided to upgrade the oil filter housing.

Here's what I ended-up using for the oil filter housing upgrade:

• Dorman 926-959 kit
• Mopar oil filter housing gasket kit (68191356AA)
• New Mopar sensors
  • Oil Pressure Sending Unit - Mopar (5149062AB)
  • Fluid Temperature Sensor - Mopar (5149077AB)
• Baxter Performance - Pentastar 3.2L and 3.6L 2014 to present. MS-201-BK Cartridge to Spin-on Adapter

I was about to install the Dorman kit when I found this thread and some other threads regarding leaks after installing a new oil filter housing, Dorman, Mopar/Factory, and other aftermarket units included. So, I purchased the Fel-Pro, Mahle, and Mopar oil filter housing gasket kits to compare them to the gaskets that came with the Dorman kit. I'll provide some pictures and notes below.

I used a dial caliper set to 22.3 mm and placed the various kit o-rings between the "pincers" of the caliper. The Mopar o-ring had space between it and the caliper's pincers. The Dorman, Fel-Pro, and Mahle all had to be "squeezed" into place.

I was able to conclude that the only gasket kit with the appropriate size o-ring (22.3 OD x 17.5 ID), according to the Chrysler KB article shared above, is the Mopar gasket kit.

The only open item I am slightly concerned about is the gaskets that go between the oil filter housing and the oil cooler. I am really hoping that there is some kind of update from Dorman regarding the gaskets that go between the OFH and the oil cooler. I mean, at a minimum, they should offer a complete gasket kit separate from the 926-959 kit. I'm also surprised that these aren't included in any of the gasket kits (except the Dorman), and I digress...

I've seen several videos on YouTube that detail installing the Dorman 926-959 kit (and its brief predecessor). It's anectdotal, but one of the installers mentioned that they had installed over 10 of the Dorman kits specifically and hadn't had any reports of leaks/issues. For any of the videos it is unclear if they used the smaller o-ring from the Mopar kit, or perhaps a different gasket kit, or some combination. If I had to guess, they likely just used the Dorman gasket kit.

I highly recommend "dry" installing the assembled oil filter housing without any packings or o-rings. That method really helped me rehearse the movements to finesse the oil filter housing into the valley, and it helped me check the fitment of the "nipple" into the engine block's bore without worrying about cutting/damaging the o-ring or packings. Then, for final installation, for the respective packings and o-rings, apply some engine oil or coolant to slightly lubricate the gaskets. I think it helps the gaskets deal with the crushing they are about to experience. And, for the o-ring to slip into its bore easier.

So, after all that, I just got the oil filter housing and lower intake manifold installed. The Mopar gasket kit o-ring slipped-into the bore of the housing snugly, but not too tight.

I have a couple of days work before I'll be able to start the engine again. I'll update this thread once I've had a chance to get the engine to operating temperature a few times. Fingers crossed.

Ready to install.

Installed with orange cap temporarily until I install the Baxter filter adapter.

Okay, below are my notes. Take care and let me know if you have questions.

Plugs
I highly recommend that you install some rubber plugs in the engine block when the oil filter housing is removed. It helps when cleaning out the valley by preventing any contaminants from going into the lubrication/cooling system passages. I used the following size plugs, sourced at Menard's:

• 1 - size "00"
• 2 - size "0"
• 1 - size "4"
• 1 - size "5"

PS - To get the fluid out of the valley after removing the oil filter housing, you can use one of those little fluid transfer pumps at Harbor Freight, Menards, or similar, with the hose designed to go into a dipstick tube. The small tube can really get into the nooks and crannies.

Housing "nipple" measurements
I was curious to see if there were any differences to account for a different sized o-ring. The Dorman nipple appears to be identical in dimensions when compared to the factory nipple. Not pictured: ID of nipple, which was also identical in diameter.

Original factory oil filter housing

Dorman oil filter housing

O-ring fitment in engine block
I wanted to do a different type of check on the fitment of the o-ring in the engine block.

The Mopar o-ring just falls down into the bore in the engine block, stopped by a small landing about 25.4 mm into the bore. This doesn't bother me since the nipple will expand the o-ring a bit for a snug fit.

The Dorman, Fel-Pro, and Mahle o-rings were stopped in the bore at the opening, and had to be squeezed to go into the bore. I used the size 5 rubber plug to push the o-ring into the bore slightly. I imagine this larger size o-ring would be a bit tougher to install. I wish I had thought to test fit with one of the larger o-rings, but I was in a hurry to just get the oil filter housing installed.

Mopar gasket kit - 68191356AA - Made in USA
This gasket kit was very similar to the Dorman/Mahle gasket kit, especially in the firmness of the packing rings. This gasket kit was manufactured in September of 2022.

A little bit of space between o-ring and caliper pincer

Dorman gasket kit - no known part number - Made in USA?
This gasket kit was very similar to the Mopar gasket kit, especially in the appearance and firmness of the packing rings. The o-ring was slightly squeezed when placed in the digital caliper (so, larger than 22.3 mm).

Fel-Pro gasket kit - ES73248 - Made in China/Taiwan
This gasket kit's packing rings were a bit firmer than any of the other gasket kits. The o-ring was slightly squeezed when placed in the digital caliper (so, larger than 22.3 mm).

Mahle gasket kit - GS33753 - Made in China
This gasket kit was very similar to the Mopar gasket kit, especially in the appearance and firmness of the packing rings, except for the color of the packings being a brownish red. The two coolant passage packings had more "nubs" on the ID surface to help hold them in-place during installation. The o-ring was slightly squeezed when placed in the digital caliper (so, larger than 22.3 mm).

 

[pumapanzer]

Question for the group. When doing this oil cooler (again), are the valve cover gaskets really necessary? At this point, I'm worried that I'm creating more points of failure by opening everything up. I plan to do the cooler, plugs, coils, etc, but not sure if I'm going down the maintenance rabbit hole of doing all this in one shot... I appreciate any feedback.

Thank you!

Valve cover gaskets was something I debated, too. I found all of my coils and plugs in excellent condition when I replaced with all NGK, and the tube seals were in great shape.

I think it's a great idea to inspect the valve followers/rockers while you have the access, but it really depends on the maintenance and driveability of the engine. Since my engine was well cared for, and I didn't find any issues when pulling the spark plugs, I opted to skip the inspection of the valvetrain.