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Is this Ford 9" good for a swap?

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16K views 33 replies 6 participants last post by  Garret  
#1 ·
I've been looking for a nodular ford 9" and came across a Nodular Ford 9" 31 spline open diff out of a 1973 Torino. I've read that this axle is either 59.25" or 61.25" wide so it is close to my stock axle (60.5"). It states it has the heavy duty thick walled housing and 3.25" axle tubes with flat tops. Is this the type of Ford 9" axle I should start building for my jeep? I will be doing a disc brake conversion most likely and putting a locker in. Since it has 2.75 gear ratio, I will be regearing to match my 4.56 gears or may regear both axles to 4.88.
Thank you in advance
 
#2 ·
u can put in any axle u want as long as u can afford/find the pinion conversion and brake parts. the 9 might not be super common in jeeps but could work, u don't care for the 8.8's? tons around and bracket kits are readily available for easy swap-over too, u can find um with 3.75 gears and LS too, even if u don't like the LS pawn it.. off prob pay for the axle
 
#3 ·
I have 4.56 gears in right now so gear ratio doesn't matter since I will have to regear to match anyways. I planned on doing the 8.8 swap but I would rather go with a stronger axle from the start and my brother and I are familiar with the 9" axles (regearing, locker, etc) so I am more comfortable with that as long as I can find a good bracket kit for it. For everything I wanted from ECGS.com was going to cost 3 grand for a fully built 8.8 axle. I'd rather build a 9" and have it be stronger and cheaper.
 
#6 ·
yah 8.8 ECGS is no deal once u start adding things on............ artec got some nice truss n bracket sys but I didn't see brackets cut for the 9" , any bracket sys for a big axle will do for u (get closest smaller size), just might have to open/play with that tube radius on um, if ur not scared to weld it.. trimming brackets is gravy
 
#8 ·
Update

Now the guy told me that the axle has stamped on it that it is a 28 spline and measures 55 3/4" from backing plate. Now I need some help to decide on if this is worth it. I could get it cheap but how hard it is it to covert from 28 spline to 31 spline when adding in a locker and regearing? Wouldn't I just need 31 spline axle shafts and I could get the axle shafts in 5x4.5 bolt pattern so I can run my wheels. I am concerned about the axle width. Is the 55 3/4" backing plate measurement correct for a TJ? Since I am assuming the total axle width is around 60"??
 

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#10 ·
The guy also just told me that this axle has the smaller bearings in it. I think I am going to pass on it. The only thing this axle has going for it is the Nodular case. Unless I'm wrong, I do not think I can convert a 28 spline small bearing into a 31 spline big bearing.
 
#12 ·
After being on the phone with him getting measurements, we found out that it is the Torino (New Style) large bearing! I bought it for $175! Now I have to come up with a build for it and decide which spline I want to end up with.

Cool project! Keep us posted on your build thread. :happyyes:
 
#13 ·
You won't be disappointed with the 9" far better than an 8.8 in many ways. Know a couple folks that put them in YJ's and I've run them in rock crawler Broncos for years. Doubt you'll need to truss it as mentioned earlier plenty strong for a TJ.
 
#14 ·
31 or 35 spline?

I am beginning to think of a build plan for this axle and noticed 4wheelparts.com that there is no price difference between a 31 spline and 35 spline detroit locker. I'm assuming that axle shafts are a little more expensive for 35 spline, but not by much. Does it make more sense to skip the 31 spline and just go straight to the 35 spline? What is a general price difference from upgrading to a 35 spline compared to 31 spline?
What is a common disc brake swap that people do in these axles as well? (link would be helpful)
Is it worth putting a pinion guard on? I do rock crawling and would prefer not to damage my axle.
I plan to upgrade from 33" tires to 35" tires and stay that way for a long time. However, I would not be surprised if I eventually go 37" many many years down the road. I have 4.56 gears up front, is it worth re-gearing the front to 4.88 or should I just put 4.56 gears in the 9" to save some money? I believe I could run 35" tires with 4.56 gears fine. I would definitely re-gear for 37" tires though whenever that day comes.
Lastly, would it be worth doing a 4-link in the rear? Not sure how hard this would be. I would like to stick with short arms and do not see much about a short arm 4-link setup.
Thanks!
 
#15 ·
There is much to tell you but I will be brief. The 3rd member you have will not work with 35 spline axles. The Torino and truck 9" 3rd uses a 3.1" bearing, the aftermarket 3rds are available with a 3.25" bearing that is necessary for the larger 35 & 40 spline axles.
Also, the stock housings are very weal at the ends, they have large tubes but they taper at the ends and are susceptible to bending outside of the springs. You can use what you have and upgrade to alloy 31 spline axles and it will work and be an improvement in strength over the D35 but it is far from bulletproof, especially if you intend to go to 37" tires. If that is your goal, then save up and buy a custom fabbed housing from one of the companies such as Currie. By time you regear and do the Fab work you will have spent at least 1/2 of the cost of getting the good set up in the beginning. I learned this the hard way and went through two stock housings before getting a fabbed housing which I have had now for 7 years of hard use with no issues. Look here Currie Enterprises TJ-F9300R - TJ F9 9" Rearend Unit (61" Wide, Bolt-In)
This unit is complete with all mounts and axles ready to bolt in just add your new big bearing 3rd member. I know it is a lot of money but what you have now is miles away from being ready to use in your TJ. Sell that set up to someone building a hot rod and get what you really need the first time.
 
#17 ·
I've looked into the currie F9 before. I do not have the banjo style housing. I have the nodular case, with 3.25" axle tubes and they do not taper down like some other ford 9" axle tubes I have seen. I'm seeing all kinds of answers, some saying that the torino style (new big bearing) and that is what is needed for 35 spline shafts, and some saying not. I do not have the small bearings though which I know is important. 35 spline 9" conversion - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum. Either way, I would be completely fine running 31 spline chromoly shafts with a locker. I am never throttle heavy on it, and from what I have read, 31 spline axle shafts are very hard to break with 35" tires. I may or may not end with 35" tires since 37" tires are insanely expensive to build for, but you never know. I really can't justify the price difference when I can build this rear end for cheap compared to buying a built one. Buying a built one was the original plan too, but my brother and I can easily build a 9" and fab it up.
 
#24 ·
These drum brakes are beyond rebuildable the guy told me with the corrosion and the he took all of the internals out because they were useless. So it's either spend the money on rebuilding them or spending that money on disc brakes instead. Drum brakes really do suck in my opinion and my drum brakes in the Dana 35 are barely enough to stop me and won't save me in an emergency. I'd be fine with my rear brakes locking up before my fronts. It's a manual anyways so I'm not on the brakes a whole lot anyways but I've noticed on off-road trips that the drum brakes don't do well enough for me and that's even on 33" tires. By the time I rebuild these drums, I could've spent probably a $100 more and have disc brakes with all new components
 
#25 ·
I get the spend it here or spend it there thing.... If your drum brakes on the TJ or any vehicle weren't working properly then they needed adjustment a very simple process to do.

You really don't want the rear locking up before the fronts. Under a hard braking condition there could be so much weight transfer to the the front that the rear brakes will lock up and skid. That will increase your stopping distances even more so than drum brakes or worse send you careening out of control.

What I'm referring to with the proportioning valve and don't quote me on this as I'm not positive with the TJ. Is that you won't have enough pressure
in the rear braking system to make the brakes work as well as they should. Which will also increase your stopping distance.

DO your home work on this one it's worth the time and effort to have a properly working brake system. It just may be your life or other around you.
 
#28 ·
Found out that this axle already has 5x4.5 bolt pattern from the factory out of a '73 Torino. This means I won't have to change hubs. Also took off the shocks, control arms, and pulled the shafts to double check they were 28 spline instead of 31 spline. Cleaned the axle up a little bit as well. Have to figure out how to take the drive shafts off because everything is just cut right in half, including the drive shaft so it is difficult to loosen the 4 bolts and hold the drive shaft tight enough.
 
#30 ·
What do you guys recommend for a locker? As of now it is still my daily driver and it's a manual. I've heard that automatic lockers are not too fun with manuals but I have no personal experience with one. It won't be my daily driver a few years down the road but will still be driven occasionally on the road.
 
#31 ·
I currently run a Detroit in the rear of my TJ, and have run them in all my rigs front and rear. There isn't really any issues running them on the street. If you're easy on the gas you'll rarely get a reminder it's there. If you accelerate harder after you shift it will just sightly drift to the left feeling like you hit a rut in the road, no biggie.

A selectable would be better but for the price and durability of the Detroit I can't see dropping another $200+ dollars for a ARB, Elocker, or OX. To be completely honest I have never seen a Detroit fail. But, I'm sure someone will chime in saying I don't have a clue about what I'm talking about. LoL.
 
#33 ·
Is this Ford 9" good for a swap?

I ran a Detroit in my 428 CJ stang close ratio 4 SPd and any wet on roads you control the backend with the skinny pedal around a corner too much skinny pedal and rear end came around to front

Don't want novice driving a Detroit on slick roads


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
#34 ·
Brakes Update

Think I found the route I will be going with brakes. Ive read a few threads with tips for this kit.
https://www.northridge4x4.com/fits/...-4wb-n-rbed-2dr/brake-kits/4354400-teraflex-ford-rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit

https://www.northridge4x4.com/fits/...-5mt-4wd-93-4wb-n-rbed-2dr/brake-lines/4304170-teraflex-universal-e-brake-cable x2

https://www.northridge4x4.com/fits/...wd-93-4wb-n-rbed-2dr/brake-lines/4355400-teraflex-rear-disc-brake-flex-line-kit

from Northridge with the wrangler forum discount comes out to be $550. Seems like a pretty common disc brake swap kit from Teraflex. Is this everything I should need?