some say 2007-2018 were not good years others will say 2007-2018 were great years. I would say newer is always better. 2012 on up got the better engine and automatic transmission.

 

^^^This..the 3.6 engine, along with the WA-580 trans, is a combination, that is hard to beat..IMO

 

I would recommend a 12+ because of the 3.6l and the NAG1 over the 3.8l and the 42RLE. The interior is a but nicer in those too.

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I bought a 2011 Sport in February of 2017. Like you I was in a TJ ('99) and wanted something with more comforts. The 2011 has the 3.8 engine, but the newer interior. I also use it for summer fun. No wheeling, just some trails. I have had no issues at all with it

 

stay away from a 2012 because of engine issues.

 

Avoid 2007 - First model year of JK
Avoid 2011- First model year of new interior with old engine
Avoid 2012- First model year of new 3.6 engine

 

just curious as to why you would avoid the 2011? i would think they have all the quirks worked out in the engine by then and it has the better interior to boot.

 

The first generation, ‘07 - ‘10, and the oddball ‘11, use the old 3.8l minivan pushrod engine. They were coupled with an good six speed manual that helps overcome the moderate power of the 3.8l. They also unfortunately got the corporate 42RLE four speed automatic, previously used in the second generation TJ & LJ, which is not a great match. The 2011 gets the same powertrain, but with some quirky PCM programming and the later style fancier interior. The second generation JKs, 2012 - 2018 got the Mercedes-designed 3.6l Pentastar V6, plus the excellent Mercedes five speed automatic. Unfortunately the earliest ‘12 - ‘13 3.6l engine’s had some cylinder head issues. Most have been replaced by now.

So, I’d search for a ‘14 or newer

 

Don’t be afraid of 2012 JKs... they have a 150k warranty on the engine.

 

Don’t be afraid of 2012 JKS... they have a 150k warranty on the engine.

I believe it is 150k or 10 years. I have 18k on my 12 JKR so if I have head trouble it will probably be on my dime because of no warranty.

 

Our first JK was a 2007 Sahara 6 speed manual. It was quite a comfort upgrade over a stock TJ. The two door can be had a very competitive price to the TJ. I tossed some Rubicon coils with some obligatory 34s and didn't do much to it after that. It had factory 4.10s which seemed rare so the tire upgrade was moot. I hit up a ton of Colorado trails and even towed a pop-up to Yellowstone and back.

With the hardtop it was super easy to pop the freedom top fronts and get some sunshine.

 

My gecko is a 12.....produced late in model year run....no issues at all....just had the crank position sensor replace...what a difference that made....I love my gecko....

 

My first Wrangler was a 2007 JK X with an automatic transmission. Bought it used in 2010 at 61,000 miles and drove it for seven years until it was stolen.

I was reasonably happy with it. Had couple of major repairs around 90,000 miles: radiator replaced and oil pan started leaking. Otherwise it was still going strong at 114,000 when it was stolen in late 2016.

Replaced it with a 2017 Willys with an automatic transmission and noticed right away that it had more power. Not sure if that's a function of the engine or the gearing or both. Otherwise, the two vehicles felt very similar and have more in common than they do differences.

 

The 2007 and 2017 have two completely different engines.

 

Avoid 2007-2011 with automatic transmission.
Avoid 2012 unless engine has been repaired and documented
Avoid 2012-2018 with manual transmission

3.21 axles are a tool of the devil. try and get 3.73 or 4.10 for all models years if possible.

 

Avoid 2012-2018 with manual transmission

Why is that?

 

In general I would stay away from the 3.8L.

The 3.6 Inline on TJ and 3.6 V far outshines the 3.8.
Changing gears is a lot easier then changing engines or making a bad purchase.

 

If you think they are in good shape, they are ALL going to be good years.

 

My 12 had the head replaced at 30K under warranty, I have since put 60K on the replacement head. It's been just fine.

My 12 isn't going anywhere.I'm planning on driving the wheels off of it.

 

I would stay away from the 2014's as well unless documented repair.

They have the following issues:

Defective HVAC controls
Defective rad
Defective oil filter/ cooler assembly.

 

I would stay away from the 2014's as well unless documented repair.

They have the following issues:

Defective HVAC controls (yep)
Defective rad (yep)
Defective oil filter/ cooler assembly.

They also have bolts that weren't torqued properly or lock-tighted in the engine/heads. These bolts plug or block oil galley's that send oil to the variable timing cams. When they back out, they reek major havoc. Cam sensors being replaced unnecessarily, cams and followers failing about 25k later due to lack of proper lubrication while being diagnosed. 107k on mine when I finally could not trust her to go 4 wheeling, drive across the town, let alone across the country. Time to get rid of her. The only thing my '14 didn't experience was the defective oil cooler, filter housing. I am sure it was just a matter of time before that went too.

 

Bolts location
Can be torqued with just the cover removed no need to remove the chain cover.
1/2 size nut (not sure)

 

Bolts location
Can be torqued with just the cover removed no need to remove the chain cover.
1/2 size nut (not sure)
View attachment 4165369

anybody know the torque spec's?