I'm running the Aries tube/flat fenders. Looks are always subjective but I like the way they look, especially with the 10A stubby bumper. Here are some pros and cons to consider:

Pro
Lot's of tire clearance
Aluminum - light weight, no rust
Strong - I can stand on them and they are solid
Not plastic so they don't fade or turn gray
They're flat and make great surfaces for things like parts and tools when working on the Jeep

Con
Even with 35's (and 3.5" lift) it looks like the Jeep skipped leg day. 37x13.5's fill it much better
Also need to consider fender liners
No side marker light - I fabricated some mounts for small LED side lights
They're metal. If you get a little too close to trees and rocks, they scratch and dent

 

I also like the Aries flares... And you're right, anything more than 2.5 with 35's and it makes too much fender gap. Even 37's with 2.5 and flats looks good...

 

I have EautoGrille knockoff copies of the above. I agree with everything that Reconmike said. I cut my OEM plastic liners for the front and rear. I installed them in 2017 so some of the cheap powdercoat has flaked off and faded but I could just respray them.

 

I have 2017 with a Metalcloak 3.5" Gamechanger lift on 37's. The fenders are Metalcloak Overline fenders front and rear. They are really, really, strong. They are also really, really, heavy. If I hadn't gone with the Metalcloak fenders I was going to go with the GenRight aluminum fenders.

But, I defintely have just about all the clearance I will ever need with these. I just wish they we aluminum just for the weight savings. Other than that, I am really happy with them. They are a challenge to install. If you decide to go with the MC Overlines and want a few tips on getting them installed a little easier, PM me and I'll be glad to tell you what I did. It will really help.

 

I have the older Poison spider narrow. Though i did fender delete up front, though recently. Rear the poison spider narrow are welded to the .125 then its .25 angle at the top for rock encounters and has proved to save the top of rear tub. I made the armor.
But Poison spider is off shore today.

when i had front fender.

 

I know some will make fun and that’s okay, but I went with a set of Smittybilt fenders and their inner liners. They were reasonably priced and I now have plenty of clearance. I put a small marker light in the front liners to keep things “legal”. They’re flat to rest items on as mentioned above which does come in handy. Let the bashing begin…

 

I'm running Nemesis Notorious flares on my 10A. I'm LCG, so I have no lift. 35s with these flares are great; they come with a marker light option, no rubbing my tires, aluminum, and flat. They are also very strong. The mounting setup is great and they are easy to take off as well. I cut/reused my factory inners and the front is perfect. The rear is so, so and I've found an aftermarket plastic liner that fits very well so I'll probably switch to those.

 

I have Aries aluminum and I am happy. If I ever decide to replace them, I will go Motobikt.

 

***Motobilt

 

Not metal, but I went with the MCE Fenders. I really like them. Super lightweight, flexible, lifetime warranty.

 

I am also a fan of MertalCloak Overline fenders. Pricey but incredibly strong.

 

I went Metalcloak hardline fenders front rear.
Very heavy but strong.
Easy to touch up when scratched again tree, rocks.
I don’t think they make Hardline anymore but I would get their Overline fenders now.
I’m pretty sure I can stuff 37 but I’m on 2.5 MC GC with 35” tires now.
They cost more but pay for what you get. I did their fender liners too in front.

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I went Metalcloak hardline fenders front rear.
Very heavy but strong.
Easy to touch up when scratched again tree, rocks.
I don’t think they make Hardline anymore but I would get their Overline fenders now.
I’m pretty sure I can stuff 37 but I’m on 2.5 MC GC with 35” tires now.
They cost more but pay for what you get. I did their fender liners too in front.

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Thanks Fred. LOL

 

What kind of strength are you looking for? You just want looks or do you want legit armor? I chose PS back before they sold out because I wanted legit strength....their flares bolt thru to the subframe so your sheet metal won't get messed up...you can literally stand on them...and I think they're the best looking...one of the MC guys will need to chime in to advise bit I think their fenders also bolt thru to the subframe...here is a pic that demonstrated the strength of these flares and then my rig.....I'm on 37's.....with 3" lift....

 

If I had the money I would have went Metal Cloak, I went MCE (plastic) instead so if you are going metal I suggest Metal Cloak. They look amazing and appear to last a long time.