I pull a pop up that is 3200 loaded and I have 373. I can tell it is back there and hills I am cranking the high rpms. I have upgraded brakes and trailer brakes. I am not sure how a 2 door would handle that weight. If it is windy it will toss you around

 

There's a few other factors to take into considerarion when towing. Attached is a video that's about Colorados but you can substitute the Jeeps specs. to see if it's safe for you.

 

Ihave pulled a landscaping trailer with a little more than 1 ton stone, so roughly 2500-3000. I would not want to go far or at high speeds at all. It's a stock 2dr with 3,21 BTW. Wasn't so much the pulling but it really wanted to shove the jeep around and brakes didn't feel adequate.

 

With a travel trailer you need to be concerned with the Frontal Area spec in your owner's manual.

I've towed a 3500 pound cargo trailer for years with several JKs (3.73/manual, 4.10/auto and a 4.88/auto) All with upgraded brakes. What I learned is Jeeps stink for towing, so now I tow with a truck.

 

Trailer length and load balance are key, especially in short wheelbased JK's more so than total weight. Electric brakes will make a huge dufference in vehicle stability when slowing rapidly. Speed is contributing factors in both of these videos, but they are also hauling too long and probably too heavy trailers.

Empty gray water and do not fill your water tank until you have reached your destination. 2, 40 gallon tanks can add more than 640lbs of pendulous weight to a trailer. 2nd video is a Cherokee I think, but the wheel base is similar to the JK.

Video 1 skip to 1:00
Video 2 skip to 0:15

 

Trailer length and load balance are key, especially in short wheelbased JK's more so than total weight. Electric brakes will make a huge difference in vehicle stability when slowing rapidly. Speed is contributing factors in both of these videos, but they are also hauling too long and probably too heavy trailers.

Empty gray water and do not fill your water tank until you have reached your destination. 2, 40 gallon tanks can add more than 640lbs of pendulous weight to a trailer. 2nd video is a Cherokee I think, but the wheel base is similar to the JK.

Video 1 skip to 1:00
Video 2 skip to 0:15

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nNpf-jYWdg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxaK6It5WEk

Outstanding examples of lousy driving. Towing with marginal equipment requires skills.

 

Did your ride come with those gears? If you put them in aftermarket and you had 321's when you bought it, then your max pull capacity is 2000 lbs.
Call the service department at the dealer and have them confirm your capacity.

I did, found out my JKUWW with 3.73 and a factory installed hitch was equipped with a towing capacity of 4400 lbs from the factory.
Not that I would test that at any time in my life, 3500 is more than enough for me.

I pulled 8x10 enclosed single axle trailer while moving houses and they were loaded heavy....no problem with my stock set up.
I wouldn't even try pulling my friends 8x12 dual axle trailer though...my daughter has a 1/2 ton so I let her pull that.

Good luck.

 

I did, found out my JKUWW with 3.73 and a factory installed hitch was equipped with a towing capacity of 4400 lbs from the factory.
Not that I would test that at any time in my life, 3500 is more than enough for me.

Not beating you up, but no American/Canadian JK in the history of JKs had 4400 lbs tow rating. Your dealer gave you incorrect information.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/the-jk-towing-thread-2007-2018-owners-manual-specs-2325363.html


EDIT: here's the page from your 2016 owner's manual

 

Can't speak for a 2 dr but we tow a 17' Casita travel trailer with our 2017 JKU Rubicon Recon, 4.10, auto, stock tires. Trailer is about 3200 lbs and tows with no problems. We are currently at a rally and had to tow into a 10-15mph headwind most of the way here. Tows fine in OD on the flats at 60-65mph, would shift to 4th on hills and occasionally 3rd on the steep ones. MPG 12.8 for the trip here. We use an Andersen weight distributing hitch and Prodigy brake controller. We have no sway issues and never have felt like the trailer is overpowering the Jeep. Highest coolant temp I saw on this trip was 215-220 pulling hills, otherwise about 208, trans 167-168 which is where it always is. On nice smooth freeway can almost forget the trailer is back there. Granted is does not pull like a 6.4 Hemi or Cummins diesel but is adequate for a trailer this size/weight. We are planning an Alaska trip next year and do not anticipate any problems.

 

I've pulled a loaded 1900lb pop-up with trailer brakes with my 15 2dr 3:73 gears manual with no problems. 2drs are rated at 2000lb towing capacity. Plenty of power, but that's not the problem. I believe the trouble starts with the 2r being to short. I wouldn't chance pulling that much weight with a 2dr, for your and your families saftey and the saftey of those innocent people you might kill. 2drs are rated at 2000lbs for a reason, you might push the envelope by 1 or 2 hundred pounds but anything more is just asking for trouble and probably a huge lawsuit.

 

I've pulled a loaded 1900lb pop-up with trailer brakes with my 15 2dr 3:73 gears with no problems. 2drs are rated at 2000lb towing capacity. Plenty of power, but that's not the problem. I believe the trouble starts with the 2r being to short. I wouldn't chance pulling that much weight with a 2dr, for your and your families saftey and the saftey of those innocent people you might kill. 2drs are rated at 2000lbs for a reason, you might push the envelope by 1 or 2 hundred pounds but anything more is just asking for trouble and probably a huge lawsuit.

2016 and up are rated at 3500 with 3.73 gears or higher. Wheelbase is not the issue.

 

Tongue weight could also be a concern as some trailers need a higher tongue weight than 10% pull properly. Otherwise @USStrongman hit the nail on the head. The only additional I would add is slow down. Speed induced sway is almost an impossibility at speeds 60 mph or slow. It is also a lot safer with crosswinds or passing semi's.

 

As a friend/mechanic told me, you can tow well above mfg ratings if you are smart with your towing. He stated he has pulled a 10,000+ lb trailer behind a class C RV which has a rating of 3,500-5,000 lbs.

You just have to slow WAY down. Brakes do not have the power to stop a heavy load and depending on climate could be cooling issues as well. He stated manufacturer towing ratings are determined by a vehicle being able to maintain a certain speed with engine/trans temps staying in check as well as a specified stopping distance with that weight.

I personally wouldn’t want to tow at/above what a manufacturer states can be done however many do it and are able to complete their trips in a more successful manor vs those videos posted above. Traveling at higher speeds is bad and also properly loading the trailer is extremely important.

I also feel a tall camping trailer at 3,500 lbs pulls different then a 3,500 lb open car hauling trailer. A tall camping trailer improperly loaded with a inexperienced (over correcting) driver is a recipe for disaster.

 

I have a 2012 JKUS 4 door with 3.21 and 35" tires. I pulled at 3000+ Coleman pop-out tent trailer with trailer brakes all over CA. You could feel it on the uphills, but anywhere else (flat earth, stopping etc.) as long as you drove like a responsible driver, I had zero problems with it. All you need to make sure anything over 1 ton has trailer brakes....and make sure they are ALWAYS set right before each outing....

 

I do not have any first hand info on a 2 door jeep pulling trailers.

4 door, 3.73 gears, brakes on trailer, weight distribution hitch, big brakes on jeep . Keep the speed low (under 50 mph) and following distances greater than normal . As long as the trailer is light weight it works. In high winds you may have to pull over but I have also had that problem with a Dodge 2500 4x4 pulling a 30 foot Camper in the Kansas plains. Got wind bound for a couple hours.
I would be concerned with the lighter weight and shorter wheel base of your two door.

A small jeep gear trailer like you see in my photo would work for you and I know a smaller pop up trailer will work . On any trailer getting over 2 K I would want brakes and a weight distribution hitch. I would not pull any trailers other than a jeep gear trailer with a lifted/ rock crawler jeep.

Hopefully someone that has actually done this will answer instead of guys like me with only opinions.

 

@TerryC6 first, how ya doing?

Second, maybe you can explain the theory behind such a huge jump in towing capacity in the 3.21 vs 3.73? It jumps 75% in towing ability. At that value, putting all other factors aside, you would be in the 10k range with 5.13's!!!

 

Doing fine but to many projects around the house, you?

I think it is nothing more than a drive train limitation. With 3.21's you just are not putting enough torque to the rear wheels. At 60 mph in 5th gear with stock tires, (31 inches) you are only turning around 1700 rpms. The engine is only developing about 190 ft pounds of torque or 500 ft lbs of torque to the rear wheels. With 3.73 and the same parameters the engine is developing 250 ft lbs of torque or 755 ft lbs of torque to the rear wheels.

Thats the math but what it means is with 3.21 you would be running at close to if not at 100% engine load at all times trying to pull 3500 lbs.

If drive train was the only limitation you could probably pull 10K pounds with 5.13 gears as the Dodge Ram 1500 8000 lbs. But brakes, suspension and frame all play a role.

I would have no problem pulling 5000 lbs with a bunch of conditions. Type of trailer, small side and frontal area, tongue weight 5% to 7% and speed to never exceed 60 mph. But that is me, I have been doing this for almost 50 years.

 

Great explanation. I assumed there was some math I have no idea how to do... so I deferred to you.

As for me? Things are good. Headed out to Terlingua for a weeks trip to Big Bend and surrounding areas. I haven't been able to get out of town. need to get away. Wife tore her MCL and Ive been playing nurse... so to speak.

 

I’m pretty sure that trying to explain to a judge / jury that you were “good” operating a vehicle, and pulling a trailer, that was well beyond the recommended specs because you have “experience” violating those specs, would result in large out of pocket expenses in the event of those actions causing damage to property, and, or injury / death to others !

 

Sorry I forgot to add the normal disclaimer. If you pull over the manufactures spec's you are opening yourself to a possible law suit and denial of insurance coverage.

Happy now?

 

I pull fiberglass 13 ft Scamp trailer with 2dr, 4.56, auto. I guess the trailer weights somewhere in 1500 - 2000 lbs range.

Pulls just fine as is, although brakes upgrade is definitely in my to-do list.

 

It was stated earlier, tongue weight plays a big factor in handling. I towed my FJ-40 with a 1500 extended cab pickup, and I had to adjust where I had it on the trailer. Braking & steering were impacted in a big way based on this. Good tongue weight and it handled great, but get it off a little and it pushed me around. After upgrading to a 2500 Quadcab, not really a big deal. The added length, better brakes, and beefed up suspension made a world of difference.

Good for you guys that would think about or do tow anything close to 3000lbs in a 2 door - not for me. It can be a handfull on the highway with just a good crosswind and passing or getting passed by a semi with no trailer.

 

Tongue weight is the biggest factor in speed induced sway. If you intend to drive the speed limit then 10% is the minimum tongue weight you can run. If you run lighter than 10% you have to slow down.

There is a big reason that CA has a 55 mph speed limit while towing is that most people don't take the time to load there trailers properly, weigh them and then set the tongue weight based on trailer weight and speed running. They just hook it up and go and as long as you have some weight on the tongue you might not get into trouble. Bad practice.

As far as wind induced sway there are 2 factors in play. The first is distance between the axle and the hitch. The closer they are the less impact the wind will have. The 2 door is actually better than the 4 door here. The second factor is the distance between the tongue and wheels on the trailer. The farther back the wheels the the less impact wind will have but normally will require a high tongue weight which is an issue for our Jeeps.

Note: I did not include the sail area of the trailer here which has a huge impact when it comes to side winds. Trailer length and shape all are part of the equation. It is a lot safer pulling a 2000 lbs flat bed trailer than a 2000 lbs travel trailer with side winds.

By the way I am not saying that a 4 door may may pull more comfortably than 2 door especially if you have made an error and the trailer is pushing you around. But when loaded properly with the TV level and has approx the same amount of weight on all 4 tires, trailer is level and has the correct amount of weight on the tongue for the speed traveled.

There are other factors that come into play but other than the above the biggest thing you can do when towing is to just slow down. Speed is the number cause of trailer accidents. Another thing to think about is the average trailer tire is only rated to 65 mph.

 

That Scamp or Casita 13' is about the most you'd want to pull with a 2 door. I pull a 17' Casita (similar design, fiberglass). A pop up or fiberglass "egg" will keep you much closer to the 36 square foot frontal area limit rather than a 7-8' wide stick built trailer.

I'm in Florida and going over an overpass at 68mph requires 3rd gear and 4000 rpms. Granted I'm on 37's, but I have 4.88 gears.

I bought an F150 for longer trips, now the Jeep only tows if the destination involves off-roading.

 

 

My sister in-law pulls a 3,000 lb RV with a 2 door JK running 35" tires and 4.56 gears. No horror stories. Just don't drive it like an idiot. Watch your tongue weight.
Is a JK or JKU a great vehicle for towing? No, I don't think so. But if all you need to tow is 3,500 lbs or less it does OK.
We tow a 3,500 lb RV with our JKU, running 37" tires and 4.88 gears. Sometimes I wish it had 5.13 gears, but too late for that. Maybe we will downsize to 35" tires. Anyway, it does OK with it as is. Same as before, don't drive like an idiot and watch the tongue weight. Driving too fast and / or not having tongue weight right will cause most towing issues.

 

I pull this with my 2 door

 

Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.

 

Again the only thing that scares me about a travel trailer of that size with a 2dr is side sail area and wind. I also think you need to level out your Jeep either using airbags or the like on the rear or a weight distribution hitch.