[jceo]

2013 JKU… I noticed a little extra vibration on my way home. When I got home I smelled some burning. I checked all wheels and found the front left was too hot to touch. I have newer pads on too.
So most likely that caliper is bad and probably the pads are smoked so I am planning on replacing the caliper and pads. Should I replace calipers on both sides even though only left is bad? What about rotors? Rotors still seem beefy but have 103k miles on them as do the calipers. Thanks!

 

[daggo66]

Definitely replace the bad caliper and pads on both front wheels (even). Depending on how long it was happening, you’re probably ok with the rotor. If you do decide to replace the rotor, replace both. It’s not necessary to replace both calipers, however if you decide to replace both rotors, you may as well replace both calipers since it’s off anyway. I have replaced just one rotor with zero issues.

 

[DomiFan]

Personally, I'd replace both calipers, pads and rotors. But I don't want to spend your $$!!

 

[Wolfslash16]

There's a good chance the rotor is warped as well, so I would personally do new calipers, rotors, caliper brackets, and pads.

The factory brake lines are known to have the inner plastic liner collapse, which can hold and trap fluid in the caliper. IMHO, I would replace the front brake lines as well. I would personally use this as an excuse to upgrade to the JL/JT brakes; direct bolt on with better stopping power front and rear.

 

[JustOnlyME]

At this point might as well just upgrade to a big brake kit or the JL/JT brakes. Definitely replace all the rubber brake lines front and back if you haven't already.

 

[rgreen65]

One thing you might want to check is if it is actually the brake hose that is acting up. As the inner liner degrades, it blocks the passage of fluid back to the master cylinder. When you apply the brakes, you have a lot of force pushing the fluid into the calipers, but the only pressure pushing back when you release the brakes is the springs on the pads. I would crack the bleed valve on both calipers open just a bit. You should be prepared for a squirt from front left and probably nothing from the front right.

Based on my experience with the Powerstop brakes I had installed on my TJ several years back (Z16 OEM level pads/rotors, calipers and new hoses) which I have been very pleased with, I have sitting waiting to be installed the Powerstop Z36 (Tow and Haul) level drilled and slotted rotors and pads, but since I have less than 40K on my JKU, I am only going new hoses, not replacing the calipers.

Note: the PS calipers are re manufactured OEMs with red powder coating. They clean up the passages and install new pistons (the only moving part). My three year old TJ calipers look much better than the 5 year old factory calipers on my JKU.

 

[jeep63]

@rgreen65 beat me to it. Sometimes the hose is the culprit, so include that in your list of parts to replace. I just went through this exercise with my 2013 on the rear brakes, and I replaced everything back there: hoses, calipers, rotors and pads. I had a trip coming up so I just swapped in some napa rubber hoses in the rear. I now have a set of custom brake hoses on my bench to swap all 4 hoses this weekend. I recommend you flush your brake fluid fully when you do the brakes.

Good luck

 

[Trees]

I'd replace the pads, the fluid, at a minimum I'd re-build the caliper(s), and I'd grease the hell out of the moving parts. I'd also replace both rotors, unless you can have them turned, or can verify somehow that they are not warped/damaged.

I'd also seriously inspect the brake lines. It's ~$100 to replace them with powerstop if you catch a holiday sale.

But... I don't want to take a chance with my brakes. I have my stock brake hoses that I just took off mine with about . . .48k on them if you would rather replace them, no issues, but also no guarantees, for whatever usps flatrate shipping is these days.

 

[rgreen65]

Powerstop has two different sets of stainless brake lines. The BH00139 is for no lift, the BH00140 is for up to 4" lift. On the Quadratec website both are $124 while on Amazon the BH00139 are $117 and the BH00140 are $113. (The later probably doesn't have the price increase yet). Quadratec shows the 139 are out of stock and Amazon shows 1 set in stock. (The had 2 sets until I purchased mine). They are showing the 140s in stock. RockAuto is less (under $100 but they charge freight on them).

 

[Trees]

Yep, gotta wait for a sale, they happen fairly often.

Mine were right at $100 with the recent flash sale.

 

[rgreen65]

Unfortunately the next shipment may be 10% (or more) higher.

I'm 79 so old enough to remember what it was like in the late '70s and early '80s with high inflation. Food packages got smaller to maintain the same price, and you would price something and go back the next week only to find the item had gone up. Inflation right now is at a 40 year high but not a 45 year high. In the late 70"s it hit 13%. Inflation is also measured ove the year prior. So if we have 10% inflation this year and have 5% inflation next year, that means prices will be 15% higher than they were last year. And it just keeps compounding.

 

[Trees]

I'm only 38, yet still understand the idea of compounding, my father doesn't believe me either, but I can math. 👍 (Btw, they'd be 15.5% higher than the original price in that example)

You're also assuming that prices haven't already been increased, or that they haven't been increased more than need be to cover future inflation.

I bought a set of $250 combination wrenches only to have have my order refunded and was told to re-purchase at the new price of $580, there's far more than inflation happening.

But I'd still say that the 20% sales are worth looking for in spite of the 10% inflation related increases that could be coming at any time.

Unless we want to keep splitting hairs, in which case I'll go grab my grandfathers straight razor.

 

[rgreen65]

What did you do about the wrenches. I would have raised Cain. If they were offered for sale at $250, and you accepted their offer and send payment (most likely in the form of a CC) then they are obligated to accept the offer, unless there was an obvious mistake - say a $250 set offered for $25 because of a misplaced decimal.

Of course it is far easier to push that at a local store not an online store. Unless the store was very unique, I would most likely never do business with them again.

Sometimes a vendor seems to get the idea they are doing us a favor by offering to sell us stuff - No, we are doing them a favor by doing business with them, and in almost all cases, we can always go somewhere else. Even in vehicles, there are more than one dealer around.

 

[Trees]

What did you do about the wrenches. I would have raised Cain. If they were offered for sale at $250, and you accepted their offer and send payment (most likely in the form of a CC) then they are obligated to accept the offer, unless there was an obvious mistake - say a $250 set offered for $25 because of a misplaced decimal.

Of course it is far easier to push that at a local store not an online store. Unless the store was very unique, I would most likely never do business with them again.

Sometimes a vendor seems to get the idea they are doing us a favor by offering to sell us stuff - No, we are doing them a favor by doing business with them, and in almost all cases, we can always go somewhere else. Even in vehicles, there are more than one dealer around.

I left them an accurate review on the review site they forwarded to me when I placed my ordered. It was an instrumentation supplier primarily, and was on-line, I don't know of anyone that sells Wright locally. Unfortunately for them, my business is controls, instrumentation, testing, and commissioning, so in one fell swoop they eliminated the opportunity to sell me many thousands of dollars of actual equipment in the not too distant future, because I have a lot to buy in a few months.

Oh well, that's how it goes. 🤷‍♂️

 

[CaptPegLeg]

One simple job that would greatly extend the life and dependability of your calipers is to CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID at least every two years. Better yet follow recommendations by Porsche and change the fluid every year. Brake fluid absorbs moisture/water and that causes rust.
it’s a simple job that will save you a lot of money and make your brakes perform as they should.