I used to have a 09 JKU (now a 16 JKR) and on it I had the A-Pillar switch pod and the Center Console Switch pod and fabed my own by the steering column where my sway bar switch is now.

Sadly I didn't keep any pictures of it but it was a nice setup. put in relays and a after market fuse box as well.

But after all my wiring experience I can say save your fingers, Brain, and Battery the struggle and go with either Trail Rocker or sPod.

Trail Rocker make a switch pod that mounts in by the shift nob but if you have a stick you can't use it. If that's the case or if you don't like that spot and would rather have the A-Column switch buy just the unit from trail rocker or spod and get Rugged Ridges switch pod.

The units are pricey but took a days long job and made it a hours worth.

 

I'm using the Rugged Ridge A-Pillar panel, and I really like it. This photo is from a Google image search, but it looks identical to mine:

 

I have the Switch Pros SP8100 and installed it on a Daystar replacement panel low on my dash.

 

Same setup I have, I like how it is tucked away but still easy to get to.

 

I have a 6-speed and wasn't groovin on the Rugged Ridge A-pillar setup...plus I wanted 6 switches. Alt-meter is fun to watch too..

 

I have a 6-speed and wasn't groovin on the Rugged Ridge A-pillar setup...plus I wanted 6 switches. Alt-meter is fun to watch too..

View attachment 3116849

So who makes that one?

I absolutely love that spot above the mirror for switches but thats the only place my huge CB will mount unfortunately.

 

Gotta subscribe to this, will be fun see'ing as well as I am in the market and can't decide between Spod and A pillar

 

CH4x4- basically, an S-pod ripoff. But much like Peacester said above, I had to build it from scratch...the steel housing/voltmeter is the only thing you get. I agree with his sentiments- as it was a lot of hours and learning for me. But I just wanted to see if I could do it & was up for the challenge. If forced again, i'd probably just get the S-pod...but the experience in wiring EVERYTHING from the ground on up (pun intended) was invaluable.

 

I initially went with the daystar panel that goes on the lower dash. I had issues with it staying "snapped" in place, and to me it just looked like crap without it being properly flush.

Next I went with the daystar a pillar mount, but the shape of the dash on my '16 Rubicon Hard Rock was different than the panel, so that didn't work either.

Unfortunately I had cut out the switches before I did any sort of test fitting (on both, so I'm a slow learner). So now I have two switch panels in my shed, neither of which do me a bit of good.

I ended up going completely custom by getting some push button switches (links in my build thread) that I mounted in my a pillar. I just drilled 'em out to the proper size and ran my home made wiring harness to my fuse block and terminal block under the hood.





I have been happy with the results so far, and I'd probably go this route from the start next time. I just had to keep in mind that they switches had a low current rating, so I had to use a relay with everything.

I admit that it probably wasn't the easiest way to go, but I had fun doing it, and if you discount the wasted money on switches and switch panels I'm only about $30-$40 all in.

Exco

 

If you have manual windows, the little cubby makes a good switch location

 

Never thought about that, great idea. I do have manual doors.

 

sPod 6 switch with duel LED's


sPod app with the Remote Control Power Module (RCPM) on my iPhone 6+

Move your CB to the passenger side with a Quadratec quick disconnect mount.

 

Here is my Spod with OTTRATTW rockers

 

I went with a A-pillar mount with using a bussman panel that I purchased through the forum market place. Super happy so far!

 

Spod........

 

Does it get in the way when you try to undo your freedom panel lever?

 

+1 Rugged Ridge A-pillar. Out of the way and factory fit....even for 2016.

 

Here are mine, wired up to my sPod alternative (more here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/thoughts-on-this-spod-sp-dbox-alternative-1648673.html )

 

Wow cool. Now I have to get a bunch of stuff so I can get switch panels lol.

 

A pillar mount with OTRATTW switches.
Started with Blue/Red LED and decided to switch to Green/Red
So if you want 4 Blue/Red OTRATTW switch bodies let me know ($35 shipped)
You will still have to order the switch covers from OTRATTW.

Red

 

A pillar mount with OTRATTW switches.
Started with Blue/Red LED and decided to switch to Green/Red
So if you want 4 Blue/Red OTRATTW switch bodies let me know ($35 shipped)
You will still have to order the switch covers from OTRATTW.
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View attachment 3119697

View attachment 3119705 Red

I really wanted blue LED's before (correctly) settling on red when I heard rumors of how freakin bright the blue was. I can tell from your pics- Wow.

 

I have a sPod as well as A pillar. Love both. Here's the sPod shown, hardtop off with the Alienshade on.

 

mdtouchet, I assume the writing comes on when the switch is activated. I've been considering this panel as an option. Seeing it, I'd prefer to do LEDs the opposite way. Writing only when off and both icon and writing when on. I'd prefer the writing in red as you have it as it doesn't impact night vision as badly. Not sure how hard it would be to do that... likely just an issue of plugging the terminals on the backside correctly I'm guessing.

Still on the "build-my-own" vs sPod fence. I'm technically proficient so the electrics certainly isn't the issue. Merely time. Frankly I don't like that the sPod is enabled all the time. I'd been looking at putting an in-line solenoid that would only enable the sPod if the ignition was on. Not sure if others have done this or if there's a reason that would be a bad idea.

/a

 

OTRATTW will do whatever colors you want (that they have) for either the icon or letters. Icon up top, bottom, vertical or horizontal...doesn't matter- they're awesome.

The s-Pod (I suspect for liability reasons) has the "on-off" switch that enables the bottom LED's (words) to light up when the switches are off, and then both will light when activating the switch. At least that's how I understand it. In wiring my own, I powered my lower LED's (words) by soldering into a dimmer wire located in my center-stack power window harness. It's light orange with grey dashes if memory serves...and it's TINY. Take your time with it, but it's awesome when complete. My switch letters light up only when I turn on my lights, and even dim with the dimmer switch...just like factory. Would/will they void my warranty? Who knows.

I wanted my switches to be ready any time even with the ignition off, but I did wire my voltmeter to a wire that powers the 12V charging slot where cig lighters use to go. That only powers with the ignition, and was super easy to solder into compared to the dimmer switch! So maybe you could run your power wire to your switch system from there?

 

Grappler2011JKU's photo answered another question I had in the back of my mind. Would a sun shade and spod co-exist. This appears to be one of those spider ones with the balls and that's the way I was leaning so looks feasible.

/a

 

Yes, the sunshades work fine although trying to get that middle one through the footman loop with the sPod takes longer that the others.

 

I have the daystar and a Waterproof Fuse Relay box.

 

I flush mounted my Switch-Pros in a daystar lower panel. Works great, nice and out of the way. Would've went with an sPOD but I liked having bluetooth and 8 switches at no extra cost

 

This is what I did...
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/w...f202/write-up-spod-switches-installed-inside-tuffy-overhead-console-445777.html

 

Nothing fancy just standard rocker switches mounted in the A-Pillar that control my lights.

 

Went with Daystar A-pillar. Ran relays for the switches and the switch lights are powered from the rear seat heater fuse in the oem fuse box (I don't have heated seats). All the switches have a quick disconnect spade terminal behind left side dash cover which are color coded to the switch light color. That way I never have to remove the switch panel to hook up new accessories. And I can disconnect them to lower the windshield.





Wiring harness for the switches


Routing for the fuse box. Don't need to compromise the water proof seal. can go from underneath.

 

Here's mine:

I have three Contura XIV switches, but there is enough space to add one more if needed