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Tj coil correction kit

15K views 36 replies 8 participants last post by  chop110  
#1 ·
I am looking to do the coil correction at the same time as i am doing the triagulated rear arm set up. Which one do most of you use or recommend. I believe rough country has one that fits on the bottom coil mount and Nth degree and black diamond have one that goes on the upper mount. Anyone one know of any others or ideas. Thanks in adavanced.
 
#6 ·
I have been looking at the mount to see where and how much i would lose so i could possibly reuse it. I think i would rther use something weldable as it should last much longer than a bolt on setup. I should know soon which way i will go as i would like to get theis part of the project done and back on the road for a little while. Thx
 
#8 ·
jerryj said:
All you loose is the weld really it wasnt easy I used a grinder a sawz all and a hammer and chisel and you gotta get rid of it any way slid it back cycled the suspension a few times and welded her back up took a few hours and no parts.
Can you take a picture and post it, id like to see how far back you moved them. I need to do the same to mine
 
#9 ·
I'll try to find a good one I dont have the camera right now but i can tell you I moved them back 4 1/2" take the springs out and let the jeep suspension cycle tack them on where the bumps hit perfect put the spring back in and let it down to make sure you dont end up with bump and spring contact.I ended up with the rear of the bracket snug against the frame and the front has about 1/4" of gap between.Hope that helps you out :thumb:
 
#10 ·
jerryj said:
I'll try to find a good one I dont have the camera right now but i can tell you I moved them back 4 1/2" take the springs out and let the jeep suspension cycle tack them on where the bumps hit perfect put the spring back in and let it down to make sure you dont end up with bump and spring contact.I ended up with the rear of the bracket snug against the frame and the front has about 1/4" of gap between.Hope that helps you out :thumb:
What about the rear track bar bracket on the right rear frame
 
#13 ·
I measured from the front leading edge of the bracket on the frame u can still see where I cut the weld and moved it 4 1/2" back measuring down the frame rail that end has a 1/4' gap between the bracket and the frame rail and the rear end of that bracket in tight to the frame to give it a better angle.
 
#14 ·
jerryj said:
I measured from the front leading edge of the bracket on the frame u can still see where I cut the weld and moved it 4 1/2" back measuring down the frame rail that end has a 1/4' gap between the bracket and the frame rail and the rear end of that bracket in tight to the frame to give it a better angle.
Ok I got what you did, thanks for the info
 
#17 ·
i just did this to a friends LJ and he loved the outcome. step one remove coils, step two SLOWLY cut away the welds on the brackets in the front. i usually cut them as close as i can to the frame them pry them off with a hammer and good flat blade or chisel
on the rear or inside the frame i just cut off the ears of the back side of the mount with a long blade saw zall. theeeen bump the suspension with no coils and just eyeball it. no need to measure unless your super picky. on the passenger side where the trac bar mount is i just cut off some of the stock mount to get it closer. about an inch. prep the frame for welding and tack it in place. once tacked and it looks good weld her up. i weld all that i can and its good to go. its just an upper spring perch it doesnt need all kinds of crazy bracing or anything.
mock up with an outboard kit
Image
 
#18 ·
Rawkon said:
i just did this to a friends LJ and he loved the outcome. step one remove coils, step two SLOWLY cut away the welds on the brackets in the front. i usually cut them as close as i can to the frame them pry them off with a hammer and good flat blade or chisel
on the rear or inside the frame i just cut off the ears of the back side of the mount with a long blade saw zall. theeeen bump the suspension with no coils and just eyeball it. no need to measure unless your super picky. on the passenger side where the trac bar mount is i just cut off some of the stock mount to get it closer. about an inch. prep the frame for welding and tack it in place. once tacked and it looks good weld her up. i weld all that i can and its good to go. its just an upper spring perch it doesnt need all kinds of crazy bracing or anything.
mock up with an outboard kit
What brand is that fancy shock tower
 
#26 ·
It is working great on road it feels more stable than it had with the short arm setup. On the trail it handles the rocks a lot better. I just need to put a little bit longer bumpstops and still need the coil correction then the rear is done. Here is the build thread with some pic.
Did you men you are thinking of doing a tri 4 link cuz you already have a four link.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/98-tj-long-arm-build-133925.html
 
#28 ·
MUDRUNNER AZ said:
It is working great on road it feels more stable than it had with the short arm setup. On the trail it handles the rocks a lot better. I just need to put a little bit longer bumpstops and still need the coil correction then the rear is done. Here is the build thread with some pic.
Did you men you are thinking of doing a tri 4 link cuz you already have a four link.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/98-tj-long-arm-build-133925.html
Man that turned out good, and yes a tri 4 link is what I'm wanting to do, so I can do away with the track bar and move the rear back to center the wheel in the wheel well