The box is divided into 4 quadrants, 1 for each speaker. That's what this picture was supposed to show. That's not the bottom of the box in the picture. At the bottom of the box is a pair of 12in down firing subs. I also have other things going on besides the separate quadrants, so the speakers are all working together and not canceling each other out. Things like phase reversal between the 6x9's and subs and delay adjustments to time align them.....I have that type of technology capability built into my system.
You make a good point about the disconnect concern, in having a potential hot wire exposed and I originally had that concern as well but I typically just pull out the black Gorilla tape and wrap it around the exposed metal connections when it's disconnected to protect against that situation.
I needed a 3 wire connection for Ignition, Ground, and BATT, thus the reason I used a 3-way Welding connector and socket. I also decided if the connector handles enough power for welding, it's likely good enough for powering an audio system.

That's what it's really all about is the "Power/Wattage" capability of the connectors anyways.
Like you said, your connectors, although only having 2 connections which really didn't meet what I was after, are able to handle 125A but is likely rated at an automotive level voltage.
VOLTS x CURRENT=POWER (WATTS)
12V x 125A= 1500 Watts
220V x 50A= 11,000 Watts
So with a connector capable of handling 11K Watts, I think I'm good and it cost a lot less than the connectors you have shown.
