The aftermarket guys do make antifreezes that are compatible with both. It should say on there compatible with both types specifically.

 

For your 2011 Wrangler, any brand of antifreeze is just fine for it. But it must say HOAT on the bottle.

 

Only if you're using HOAT or OAT specific coolant and adding it to the existing.

If you buy the universal - you can add it to any coolant you have. Or, better yet, just flush and replace it all with the universal stuff.

 

Yes.

There are legions of people that will tell you to only use the Mopar stuff. Then they'll all have stories how their heaters are clogged and all while using the Mopar stuff that's $20-$30 a bottle... these same people then call every other Mopar replacement item junk (oil, brakes, etc.) and replace them with other brands without a worry.

Mopar branded coolant isn't made by Jeep. The same companies that make the Fram, Prestone, Peak coolant make the stuff that the dealership sells in Mopar branded bottles.

Prestone universal is about $10 a bottle at Walmart. It's 10 year / 350,000 mile coolant.

 

Prestone universal is about $10 a bottle at Walmart. It's 10 year / 350,000 mile coolant.

The cost per bottle isn't a significant factor when flushing, replacing or topping coolant in the radiator or remote reservoir. I wouldn't recommend using anything labeled "universal" when it comes to HOAT/OAT antifreeze... use the brand and fluid that works per the manufacturer specification.

Why gamble mixing fluids and problematic cooling systems for $10 bucks?

 

2011's HOAT is the specified chemical coolant..HOAT coolant is a mix of an OAT or organic acids with a silicate, which is an IAT inhibitor making them great protectors of the aluminum engine and cooling system components. Just ensure that the brand you choose is HOAT.. IMO I'd use 50/50 mix. The mfg used purified H2O which has NO minerals like tap water generally does.

 

MOPAR HOAT

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-68051212AB-Anti-Freeze/dp/B007O3YFY8/ref=asc_df_B007O3YFY8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1756390761772436910&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013298&hvtargid=pla-571344376735&psc=1

 

When I replace my coolant, I use one gallon of full strength, one gal of distilled water, and top off the remainder with a bottle of 50/50. What I don't use of the 50/50, I keep as a reserve and can add anytime there's a new without disturbing the balance. May save you a buck or two. I've had good success with part's store brand anti-freeze and I strongly recommend distilled water as opposed to anything else.

 

I am on my 4th radiator. I ran stock coolant in my stock and my first aluminum radiator. The aluminum radiator failed in spectacular fashion within 9 months. It was replaced under warranty and I move to good old green. That 3rd radiator lasted almost 3 years but failed also. Both of those radiator were cheap Chinese models. On my current radiator, an AFE BladeRunner GT I am using Amsoil low toxic coolant. So far so good.

In each case I filled and flushed with distilled water until ran clear.

 

i just want my daughter to have a gallon on antifreeze with her at all times. i just want to buy the right stuff

 

The correct antifreeze for you depends upon what is currently in your Jeep. If a previous owner completely flushed the system and put in aftermarket antifreeze, hopefully that antifreeze will be adequate.
Now if you want what your Jeep came with, that would in all probability be the orange mopar antifreeze. You can check using your VIN number with your Jeep dealership to get the correct antifreeze from the dealer. Just be certain to completely flush the system in any case to make certain you are not mixing incompatible anti freezes.
The main caution would be to refrain from mixing hoat with oat antifreeze.

 

I've got 8 years and 122,000 miles on the stock cooling system in my 2015 Rubicon without any issues other than a stuck open thermostat which I replaced last summer at around 115,000 miles. The Mopar 10 year/150,000 mile OAT coolant has been used in mine since day one, and has performed flawlessly resulting in spotless cooling passages in the block with a full flowing heater core that was verified when I flushed it during the thermostat replacement. I see no issue running the full 10 years/150,000 miles on the Mopar OAT coolant if you can ensure that no other coolant gets introduced in the system to mix with it, and be operated like that for a long period of time. I do my own maintenance, so there was never an opportunity for a shop to top off the system with another brand of coolant without me knowing about it. For the 2011 Wrangler you should double check your owners manual, but I believe it takes the Mopar 5 year/100,000 mile HOAT coolant.

 

I've got 8 years and 122,000 miles on the stock cooling system in my 2015 Rubicon without any issues other than a stuck open thermostat which I replaced last summer at around 115,000 miles. The Mopar 10 year/150,000 mile OAT coolant has been used in mine since day one, and has performed flawlessly resulting in spotless cooling passages in the block with a full flowing heater core that was verified when I flushed it during the thermostat replacement. I see no issue running the full 10 years/150,000 miles on the Mopar OAT coolant if you can ensure that no other coolant gets introduced in the system to mix with it, and be operated like that for a longer period of time. I do my own maintenance, so there was never an opportunity for a shop to top off the system with any other coolant. For the 2011 Wrangler you should double check your owners manual, but I believe it takes the Mopar 5 year/100,000 mile HOAT coolant.

Are you saying that you had the factory fill of coolant until 115k?

 

Check out this article on the downsides of using a "universal" coolant.

Universal coolant? — Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice | Automotive Repair Tips and How-To

 

This discussion comes up regularly, and it's easy to understand why. Seems every manufacturer now wants to have their own proprietary coolant blend, color, etc. Jeep has it's multi-colored range of HOAT & OAT coolants, Ford went from gold HOAT up to 2011 to an orange (Dexcool essentially) to now a "yellow" (looks green when you pour it) that is "backwards compatible" and supposed to replace the orange stuff on 2012 up models due to some issue with their version of Dexcool. I had the coolant changed on my F150 per the recommended change interval and it now sports the yellow stuff.

It's understandable consumers say "screw it" and just get the green stuff grandpa used in the 'ol CJ, but that's not a wise move. This is pretty nuts and really frustrating because the manufacturers, like Ford has done, can change their minds after assessing warranty data.

Beyond what's recommended in the Jeep owner's manual, there's a wealth of "what to use & why" information on the web. The simple "why" explanation is that unlike grandpa's CJ, a modern Jeep uses very little iron & steel in the components of the engine & cooling system. Since the demise of the 3.8L the blocks, heads, water pumps, radiator, heater core, etc. are lightweight alloys that react differently to coolants. All these components are soaked in whatever coolant is in the system for as long as 10 years, so the engineers developed coolant formulas that will be the least corrosive and reactive to the alloys & hoses, etc. The 3.8L, while still having an iron block, has aluminum heads, etc., etc. The recommended HOAT & OAT coolants are expensive, but on the other hand have extended change requirements so are pretty cost effective when you factor in the risks involved with using the green stuff grandpa used in his CJ and the potential associated repairs from using the wrong stuff.

 

I had trouble with Prestone universal. My mechanic says use oem g30 only

 

I order this AMSOIL coolant and have had great results. I have used it in a 1994 Jeep Cherokee, 2000 Corvette, 2010 Jeep JKU, and 2012 Ford Focus.

Passenger Car & Light Truck Antifreeze & Coolant

Shop Passenger Car & Light Truck Antifreeze & Coolant at AMSOIL. Find premium synthetic oil, filters and more online. Fast, free shipping available.

www.amsoil.com

 

I am planning on changing to Amsoil at some point. Probably after my extended warranty ends in May.

What color is it?

 

Follow the manual. I had a 2008 that required HOAT but my 2021 requires OAT. I know this because it is in the manual. Find the manual for your 2011 and read the coolant section. Period.

https://www.jeepmanuals.org/

 

Well, I think the problem is that a great many service stations don't know the difference either. I went to a Jiffy Lube to get my oil changed and a part of their service is topping off the overflow. I didn't know this at the time. Fortunately, I was watching and stopped them when they started playing with the coolant overflow. I told them not to... just do the oil change. Out of curiosity though, I asked them what they were getting ready to put in.... oat or hoat... and they couldn't tell me. They didn't know exactly what it was. To them it was just "coolant".

 

If you're shopping around just looking at the jugs HOAT is 5 years/100k miles, OAT is 10 years/150k miles. You can see in the pic above without even looking at part#'s, super simple and stress free lol. Also you can buy the OAT jug 50/50 for $17.50 from Amazon: Amazon.com

 

When my OAT is spilled onto the ground into a black catch pan it looks green from the UV leak detection dye.
It looks orange in the radiator.
It has looked pink/purple/orange/green/box of crayons in the overflow reservoir from different angles and light.

This was 1 month after I bought it with 13.3k on it.
It had 1 Jeep dealer inspection service on it after it was sold to Autonation - Joe Arapahoe (Colorado) in July of 2017
Previous owner had it for exactly 1 year and 13k miles.

Coolant level when I received it.

After I added 1 qt of OAT - It was 1 quart low when i took ownership in February 2018.

Added leak detection dye 2-7-2020 (you can see in the overflow reservoir that it now has a orange/green tint to it)

Fast Forward thermostat change November 2022 - Existing OAT coolant with UV leak detection dye spilled into catch pan. (looks green on the black catch pan)

This is a brand new coolant overflow reservoir. The green tint is the UV leak detection dye.

I took these 2 photos at the same time. You cant see the dark green tint from the side.

The color of OAT is orange with factory added purple dye. I am assuming the die wears off some over time.
When I flush the UV leak detection dye out with the rest of the factory fill it will probably stay purple.

It isn't HOAT mixed with OAT.

 

When my OAT is spilled onto the ground into a black catch pan it looks green from the UV leak detection dye.
It looks orange in the radiator.
It has looked pink/purple/orange/green/box of crayons in the overflow reservoir from different angles and light.

This was 1 month after I bought it with 13.3k on it.
It had 1 Jeep dealer inspection service on it after it was sold to Autonation - Joe Arapahoe (Colorado) in July of 2017
Previous owner had it for exactly 1 year and 13k miles.
View attachment 4568108

Coolant level when I received it.
View attachment 4568201

After I added 1 qt of OAT - It was 1 quart low when i took ownership in February 2018.
View attachment 4568200

View attachment 4568202


Added leak detection dye 2-7-2020 (you can see in the overflow reservoir that it now has a orange/green tint to it)
View attachment 4568204


Fast Forward thermostat change November 2022 - Existing OAT coolant with UV leak detection dye spilled into catch pan. (looks green on the black catch pan)
View attachment 4568107

This is a brand new coolant overflow reservoir. The green tint is the UV leak detection dye.
View attachment 4568198

I took these 2 photos at the same time. You cant see the dark green tint from the side.
View attachment 4568199

The color of OAT is orange with factory added Purple dye. I am assuming the die wears off some over time.
When I flush the dye out it will probably stay purple.

It isn't HOAT mixed with OAT.

My head hurts 🤣

 

Pages 4 & 5 give some excellent insights into this coolant mischief (OAT, HOAT, coloration).

http://starparts.chrysler.com/newsletters/newsletter_Oct_2012.pdf

 

No wonder some people are reporting a "rainbow" of different colors with respect to their "mopar" purple coolant. If you add an orange leak detention dye to your purple coolant.....obviously you have contaminated your original purple coolant and only God knows what color coolant you may end up with. Same goes with the "mopar" stop leak tablets. Why anyone would add that crap to their coolant system rather than correctly "fix" the leak escapes me. That stuff could cause a color shift as well. Perhaps the "Mopar" stop leak is what some people are referring to as "sand" in their systems! Perhaps that is why so many have complained of heater core and radiator issues. Everyone knows adding any sort of stop leak crap to the coolant in a vehicle only plugs up the radiator and heater core. Obviously the "factory" forgot to add either of those items to my Jeep because my coolant is purple and has always been purple!

 

mine came from the factory with stop leak. I had my coolant tested and in fact was identified as stop leak. Not sure they forgot -- you probably had a nicely sealed coolant system when fired up after assembly. I can see where the stop leak coagulated in different areas.

thanks for your feedback.

 

What I should have done is taken a photo of that drop of stop leak after it coagulates. I scraped it off the light table with a razor blade. It becomes hardened overnight when exposed to air. That jar with the stop leak settled at the bottom. When you shake the jar it becomes suspended in the coolant and takes about 2-3 hours to settle.

I don't know what to say...

That sample was taken from my 10A at 5,000 miles.

 

i think this is a pretty common picture from a factory fill on a 3.6.
That is stop leak in the bottom of the overflow reservoir I assume.
It took several years to accumulate at the bottom of the overflow reservoir.
When I first learned about this I contemplated adding a coolant filter but decided against it because nothing was broken and the system wasn’t designed for it.
I have not had any heating issues or overheating issues in 4 years.
My temp gauge has always been @ 12 o’clock.
Still I am going to perform a flush/flooding backflush of the radiator, heater core, and engine block with dionized water using a water pulsating flush tool in the spring.
It will still be under 50k by then.

 

i think this is a pretty common picture from a factory fill on a 3.6.
That is stop leak in the bottom of the overflow reservoir I assume.
It took several years to accumulate at the bottom of the overflow reservoir.
When I first learned about this I contemplated adding a coolant filter but decided against it because nothing was broken and the system wasn’t designed for it.
I have not had any heating issues or overheating issues in 4 years.
My temp gauge has always been @ 12 o’clock.
Still I am going to perform a flush/flooding backflush of the radiator, heater core, and engine block with dionized water using a water pulsating flush tool in the spring.
It will still be under 50k by then.
View attachment 4568245

View attachment 4568251 View attachment 4568252

I would be careful using one of the compressed air flush guns, because you could easily overpressurize the cooling system if you hit some sort of blockage or constriction as it flows through the cooling passages. I would recommend you have a regulator on both your water supply and air supply, and limit it to 16 psi as specified in the factory service manual. I didn't use compressed air because an aggressive flush gun wasn't necessary for mine, but I successfully used the water pressure regulator linked below to reduce the 65psi coming out of the outdoor spigot on my garage.

Amazon.com: Renator RV Water Pressure Regulator for RV Camper. Brass Lead-free Adjustable RV Water Pressure Regulator with Gauge. RV Water Regulator for Camper Travel Trailer, Reducer Valve W Filter. M11-0660R. : Automotive

 

I wouldn't rule out the possibility of some dealership service departments adding the Mopar stop leak to new Wranglers during PDI if leakage is suspected. They could also be adding it later on during other service visits.

 

That is a possibility. However, I would have difficulty with the concept the EPA would allow FCA to ship leakers to dealers...

This is coming from 46 years experience in manufacturing..

I did have to order the Mopar Stop Leak... wasn't available in any local dealership's inventory.

Thank you for your objective insight.

 

didnt mean to open up a can of worms here. i just had the radiator replaced due to a small leak (covered under warranty) and all i can do is assume is that HOAT was installed in my daughters 2011 3.8L. I'll look at the receipt and call if needed. I will get a gallon of HOAT to keep in her jeep. thanks for all the replies and wisdom.
PS: the color of her antifreeze is the same color as M998DNA's #31 post on this thread (bottom left corner of the picture)

 

No worries. This has been hashed out many times before. Same issue, same people and a few newcomers.

There's several 8-10 year old threads on this subject..

 

My question would be how would Amalgatech know what Chrysler is doing on their production line since that's proprietary information? Do they have a contract with Chrysler such that they have access to documentation or other information about production processes? Is it possible they just found stop leak in some of the Wranglers they tested, so they assumed that this is being added at the factory as opposed to later on by dealerships?

I would like to see the official factory rework procedure for a leak found during production. My guess is that QC would pull leaking vehicles after final assembly, and send them to a segregated rework area where the discrepant parts are replaced per drawing. The stop leak is a temporary solution which I don't think would be approved by production engineering as a permanent repair for a new vehicle that hasn't been put into service.

 

Something strange is going on here..... Why do sooooo many forum members report their 2013+ JK Jeeps have a sludge of some sort in their JK burp tanks? Why do so many 2013+ JK owners report their coolant is any color but purple?
The only answer is contaminants must be getting into the system at some point. This may be from a previous owner, the dealer putting in the wrong coolant or perhaps some other more sinister action.
The fact remains...My coolant in my particular 2013+ JK is and always has been purple..... not orange, not burnt orange and there was never any sludge in my JK's burp tank!