That price seems high! But yes, you will see a difference. In your case it will firm up the body roll. It is great on road and help off road.

If we can help, please let us know! Feel free to call, email, or PM at anytime!

-Jason

 

That’s what I like to hear, getting back my on road drivability while not limiting off-roadability is the goal!

And for price, yeah it’s high but i’m in canada so there are very few options for ordering parts and that price is also in CAD

 

Curious to hear others opinions on the Antirock... don't hear much about them here

 

I went disconnects first and ended up getting antirocks anyway. They are definitely the best option. I think the on road driving in actually improved over stock. A lot of my driving is on rough roads and I feel like I have way less body roll at speed going over bumps and holes.

 

Rough roads are very common up here in canada with our 8 months of winter and currently some big bumps will like throw my jeep and make it feel like i have to fight to keep it in the lane.

I'm very happy with my Antirock.

I know some have said that they see excessive body roll but that's not my experience. I do not miss my stock sway bar nor do I see any loss of flex on the trails over simply being disconnected.

that’s good to hear, stock like feeling with the same off-road ability is why people seem to love these so much

Antirock front and back on a light two door here.

4 1/2 inches of actual suspension lift from a 3.5 AEV.

MUCH better ride than stock, only a little more body roll than stock sway bar connected, not noticed any significant difference off road, AWESOME setup on long rough trails. Feels solid on the freeway at 70.

Curious if your jeep is noticeably looser with the front and rear antirock now. I only have a 2” lift with a pick up front but I wouldn’t want to make the whole jeep sway when I turned the wheel but I feel like the rear antirock could be a good option to reduce the ass end getting thrown when hitting a bump on one side of the road.

 

I'm very happy with my Antirock.

I know some have said that they see excessive body roll but that's not my experience. I do not miss my stock sway bar nor do I see any loss of flex on the trails over simply being disconnected.

 

Antirock front and back on a light two door here.

4 1/2 inches of actual suspension lift from a 3.5 AEV.

MUCH better ride than stock, only a little more body roll than stock sway bar connected, not noticed any significant difference off road, AWESOME setup on long rough trails. Feels solid on the freeway at 70.

 

A little backstory...

So for the last 6-8 months I’ve been driving my jeep with my sway bar ALWAYS disconnected.

Recently while out snow wheeling I came sliding sideways to a stop after approaching a slippery downhill section with way too much speed and it really made me think about the chance of a rollover.

I’ve also noticed my jeep literally being blown around on the highway in high winds. A lightweight 2 door mixed with no sway bar makes for a scary drive.. and now that i’ll be driving on the highway a lot more for school, i’m looking at the front rockjock (currie) antirock sway bar.



THE QUESTION...

My sway bar no longer stays up on its own so it’s tied up and my links are stock length so probably shouldn’t be used with the ~3” total lift I now have up front.

Links are anywhere from $150 to over $200 and I see the front antirock for $650 so quite an investment and I’m just wondering if anyone has gone from no sway bar to an antirock INSTEAD of going from connected to an antirock like most people.

*****I want to know if it will be a noticeable improvement over no sway bar or not!

Thank you and leave any questions below if my write up didn’t make sense 🙂

ANY sway bar (antirock or otherwise) will limit suspension travel both on and off road because that's what they are specifically designed to do.... and off-road you don't want to restrict suspension travel... which is why they came up with disconnects.


Sway bars control body roll by restricting spring/shock expansion/compression of one axle spring relative to the spring/shock on the other side of the axle. If you have weak, cushy springs then you need a strong sway bar to prevent excessive expansion/contraction differences. If you have tough springs then you need little to no sway bar at all. Indeed sway bars weren't really even a part of the automotive world until the introduction of the "Cadillac ride". Soft spongy springs which provided a great ride but were downright dangerous in a 'swerve and brake' emergency.


Anyway, the long and short of it is that how much sway bar is required in a give case is wholly and completely dependent on how strong your springs are and how anti reactive your shocks are. Given that, and in your case where you're feeling unsafe on the trails with no sway bar, then I would suggest the springs and/or shocks are your REAL issue.


You can use an anitrock to cover up the real issue if you want in much the same way people try to cover up their steering issues with a stronger stabilizer, but it's not really something I would do.


I should add that I operate with no sway bars at all.... but then I have the TF 3" sport lift (tough springs) with the falcon 3.3 shocks. I don't need too much in the way of spring dampening control.

 

ANY sway bar (antirock or otherwise) will limit suspension travel both on and off road because that's what they are specifically designed to do.... and off-road you don't want to restrict suspension travel... which is why they came up with disconnects.


Sway bars control body roll by restricting spring/shock expansion/compression of one axle spring relative to the spring/shock on the other side of the axle. If you have weak, cushy springs then you need a strong sway bar to prevent excessive expansion/contraction differences. If you have tough springs then you need little to no sway bar at all. Indeed sway bars weren't really even a part of the automotive world until the introduction of the "Cadillac ride". Soft spongy springs which provided a great ride but were downright dangerous in a 'swerve and brake' emergency.


Anyway, the long and short of it is that how much sway bar is required in a give case is wholly and completely dependent on how strong your springs are and how anti reactive your shocks are. Given that, and in your case where you're feeling unsafe on the trails with no sway bar, then I would suggest the springs and/or shocks are your REAL issue.


You can use an anitrock to cover up the real issue if you want in much the same way people try to cover up their steering issues with a stronger stabilizer, but it's not really something I would do.


I should add that I operate with no sway bars at all.... but then I have the TF 3" sport lift (tough springs) with the falcon 3.3 shocks. I don't need too much in the way of spring dampening control.

I miss Bob Sanders.

 

Interesting article - I can say it is true to my experience with front and rear Antirock and some words from the man himself - although he obviously has a financial interest in selling Antirock

https://wranglerforum.com/threads/h...m/threads/how-does-a-currie-antirock-sway-bar-improve-off-road-performance.197/

 

I use an Off Road Only Sway Loc. I love the thing. Tighter in on road mode and awesome in off road mode. Really best of both world in my opinion. I have the manual switch version. If someone really need a push button switch inside the cab they make that too. The off road mode is smother than being disconnected. I get a full yet controlled flex all the way to the bump stops.

 

Great addition! Nice to see alternatives! This looks great.

 

I think the road improvements will be marginal. The most significant contribution of the antirock is definitely going to be seen offroad. It is actually marketed as an "offroad swaybar". I installed my front antirock this past weekend, and the highway driving just had minimal improvement. I may need to raise the arms once I confirm the midpoint of my suspension cycle. Until then, I just have the arms parallel with the frame, which is not always the midpoint depending on the amount of travel there is.

 

With the correct caster adjustment, I no longer have side to side wandering.

 

all sway bars to check travel. You need to lift the jeep so the front axle is at FULL droop. the sway bar should NOT pull the sway link tight(parallel ). If it does it can invert and go forward not return back. This will taco those linkes right over the tie rod. I have seen this happen when people shortlink that sway bar. Longer the shocks the more that sway be is UP on flat ground.

Rear can do this too. But that tends break the sway bar.

There is what they call Usable flex. generally speaking of when the shocks are longer than the springs free length. I would not run No sway bars front and rear. that will be SOL in off camber when the body just unloads to the downhill side ifthat happens fast enough it can induce a roll over. anti rock i seen tests that show it does limit a little depending on tire weights and axle weights. they showed about .5" less flex< no big deal. I have never been stuck from not enough flex. From belly many times and i have 18" of belly. like a 130-140 tire will force more load then say a 80lbs tire. same for larger axles like a d44<>d60. one is much heavier than the other.

I am still using the stock rubi Esway now 13 year and its used everytime the jeeps driven. Trail jeep itis all it does. ride a trailer getting there and back. when that fails i might go Currie/Rock jock or just save the weight and $$$$$ and just delete it. Betting i go the latter, I like deleting stuff when i can and that list is rather long on this heep of a jeep. Less weight is always a win win win.

 

An old rubi Esway is on my wish list so I could install an EVO disconnect.NO LIMITS MANUAL RUBICON SWAYBAR DISCONNECT JK/JL/JT | EVO Manufacturing

 

Not sure if you follow Ben Ertel from JK Gear & Gadgets on YouTube. He had one of these Evo kits for a while, until the sway bar internals themselves were not even functional even with that. Here is the video. It is right at the beginning that he covers it. What I took from it was the Evo "knob" kit is really sort of a band-aid.

 

BTW, I am selling my old one.

 

A little backstory...

So for the last 6-8 months I’ve been driving my jeep with my sway bar ALWAYS disconnected.

Recently while out snow wheeling I came sliding sideways to a stop after approaching a slippery downhill section with way too much speed and it really made me think about the chance of a rollover.

I’ve also noticed my jeep literally being blown around on the highway in high winds. A lightweight 2 door mixed with no sway bar makes for a scary drive.. and now that i’ll be driving on the highway a lot more for school, i’m looking at the front rockjock (currie) antirock sway bar.



THE QUESTION...

My sway bar no longer stays up on its own so it’s tied up and my links are stock length so probably shouldn’t be used with the ~3” total lift I now have up front.

Links are anywhere from $150 to over $200 and I see the front antirock for $650 so quite an investment and I’m just wondering if anyone has gone from no sway bar to an antirock INSTEAD of going from connected to an antirock like most people.

*****I want to know if it will be a noticeable improvement over no sway bar or not!

Thank you and leave any questions below if my write up didn’t make sense 🙂

Is there anything wrong with your sway bar? Why not just get bigger end links. I went with the Metalcloak quick disconnects. Stupid expensive for end-links but they are good. I had to do a couple of modification to make them fit a JK, but I'm really happy with them. They come with straps that hold up your sway bar too. (No zip ties!!)

JL Wrangler | JT Gladiator Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects, 2018 - 2023

The Jeep JL Wrangler and JT Gladiator Truck Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnect (11" - 12" length), by MetalCloak bolt directly into the factory locations and allow for manual disconnect of the front sway bar. Features Include: Fits 2018 - 2023 JL Wranglers & JT Gladiators Extended...

metalcloak.com

 

I've tried Stock Sport sway bar with JKS disconnects, front Antirock, Rubicon OE Swaybar with EVO No limits, back to Antirock, then ORO Swalock dual rate swaybar. If i had to do it all over again i'll go with the ORO Swaylock setup for a DD, Antirock if i wasn't driving the Jeep on the street as a DD.

When i did the Antirock to experiment, the only inprovement onroad with an Antirock is that your head would literally stop going side to side when you hit a speedbump for example going diagonally or any other uneven type of surface that forces the front axel to go up on one side when the sway bar is connected. It feels so great in those instances it's almost like an IFS will behave if we had such a a thing in the Wranglers Anti-rock honors that name here. You'll also find the Jeep been more cushy (to a point) as you drive on potholes etc. But, the caveat is you get a lot more body roll around corners as well, Imagine the feeling you get fully disconnected except with the Antirock you're still connected but with a much lower sway bar rate.

In my case, the Jeep is a DD and i like to have my famity in it, my wife will drive it as well sometimes, so any type of emergency manouver could be catastrophic and you don't have to be going very fast. Only took one of those to make me rethink, and i wasn't driving the Jeep that day but the thought of everything at once was enough to make me rethink what i wanted out the mod. Went back to the OE sway bar rate but this time with a Rubi setup with the evo no limits because the act of connecting/reconnecting gets old quickly when you have to be on a level surface , not counting having to deal with missing pins and what to do with the swaybar links. Driving with the stock swaybar rate on the street is a given/need for most DD's, but the disconnected experience after trying an Antirock is also a big dissapointment when offroading and you feel the axel flopping around if you try to go the same speed you could before. You have to experience an Antirock at least once to know what i'm talking about.

This is how I ended up going with the ORO Swaylock dual rate. Best of both worlds between having a heavier rate for onroad duties and a much lower one for offroad duties.
You can drive with the antirock on the street don't get me wrong, but if your Jeep is a DD you have to change your driving habits when onroad, mostly cause the body roll and the softer sway bar rate. If you have adjustable shocks where you can make them stiffer using low speed compression that can help mitigate the issue with body roll on the street, i wouldn't call it a fix per see but making your low speed compression stiffer will definetly be a big improvement in this regards.

Offroad is where the Antirock will shine over the stock sway bar disconnected, I tested flex with the Antirock with my setup on 35's and lost 5/8" uptravel/downtravel. These was on shocks that can extend 28 1/4" (OME L's) anyways so losing 5/8 of that is nothing, and you have to bump the uptravel anyways between 2.5"-3" depending on what shock you have. The antirock can be your 1/2" extra extension Driving offroad with an Antirock gives your axel better control as as the axel is not flopping freely left and right like as it does with standard disconnects. If you don't have expensive shocks to control low speed compression, this is the biggest change you can do to have a Jeep that drives incredibly well in any dirt road you hit, more so when that road have ruts and the like. it changes how cushy the ride feels just like it does when you're fully disconnected, but with the antirock the feeling changes like if you have added better shocks to your setup to a point of course.

This antirock with the OME L's in the front, in my case, i have manual disconnects in the links so i measured 28 1/4 disconnected, 27 5/8" with the antirock connected

And then same deal on the uptravel
Disconnected

Antirock connected

I didn't do an official measurement with the ORO as i thought it was going to be the same deal as the Antirock, but in a test i did a couple weeks ago with the rear hellwig swaybar, i found with the ORO Swaylock my longer front Fox shocks can open all their 11.5" shock shaft with the Swaylock in fun mode.
This Fox with reservoirs i have are 29 1/8" extended, not a single issue using all the downtravel with the Swaylock. My uptravel is limited by 2" bumpstop extensions and the MC durosprings. i need 2.5 at the very min to protect the shock so i have around 2 3/4" limit in the front anyways and to protect my front grill.

20250301_102259 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20250301_102747 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20250301_102752 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20250311_131453 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

And no i didn't keep the rear Hellwig, in this application that one really limits flex in the back by a good amount, In my case that seems to be 1 1/4, could be more but wasn't able to test that out.

Again nobody will even feel the difference in flex witn an Antirock , the installing of that one is a breeze compared to the sway lock and if i wasn't doing DD duties and doing offroad only it'll be the option ii'll have for the front. With DD duties in mind the Swaylock is a better choice but it also cost a little more, although you can have the cake and eat it too in this instance.

 

I've tried Stock Sport sway bar with JKS disconnects, front Antirock, Rubicon OE Swaybar with EVO No limits, back to Antirock, then ORO Swalock dual rate swaybar. If i had to do it all over again i'll go with the ORO Swaylock setup for a DD, Antirock if i wasn't driving the Jeep on the street as a DD.

When i did the Antirock to experiment, the only inprovement onroad with an Antirock is that your head would literally stop going side to side when you hit a speedbump for example going diagonally or any other uneven type of surface that forces the front axel to go up on one side when the sway bar is connected. It feels so great in those instances it's almost like an IFS will behave if we had such a a thing in the Wranglers Anti-rock honors that name here. You'll also find the Jeep been more cushy (to a point) as you drive on potholes etc. But, the caveat is you get a lot more body roll around corners as well, Imagine the feeling you get fully disconnected except with the Antirock you're still connected but with a much lower sway bar rate.

In my case, the Jeep is a DD and i like to have my famity in it, my wife will drive it as well sometimes, so any type of emergency manouver could be catastrophic and you don't have to be going very fast. Only took one of those to make me rethink, and i wasn't driving the Jeep that day but the thought of everything at once was enough to make me rethink what i wanted out the mod. Went back to the OE sway bar rate but this time with a Rubi setup with the evo no limits because the act of connecting/reconnecting gets old quickly when you have to be on a level surface , not counting having to deal with missing pins and what to do with the swaybar links. Driving with the stock swaybar rate on the street is a given/need for most DD's, but the disconnected experience after trying an Antirock is also a big dissapointment when offroading and you feel the axel flopping around if you try to go the same speed you could before. You have to experience an Antirock at least once to know what i'm talking about.

This is how I ended up going with the ORO Swaylock dual rate. Best of both worlds between having a heavier rate for onroad duties and a much lower one for offroad duties.
You can drive with the antirock on the street don't get me wrong, but if your Jeep is a DD you have to change your driving habits when onroad, mostly cause the body roll and the softer sway bar rate. If you have adjustable shocks where you can make them stiffer using low speed compression that can help mitigate the issue with body roll on the street, i wouldn't call it a fix per see but making your low speed compression stiffer will definetly be a big improvement in this regards.

Offroad is where the Antirock will shine over the stock sway bar disconnected, I tested flex with the Antirock with my setup on 35's and lost 5/8" uptravel/downtravel. These was on shocks that can extend 28 1/4" (OME L's) anyways so losing 5/8 of that is nothing, and you have to bump the uptravel anyways between 2.5"-3" depending on what shock you have. The antirock can be your 1/2" extra extension Driving offroad with an Antirock gives your axel better control as as the axel is not flopping freely left and right like as it does with standard disconnects. If you don't have expensive shocks to control low speed compression, this is the biggest change you can do to have a Jeep that drives incredibly well in any dirt road you hit, more so when that road have ruts and the like. it changes how cushy the ride feels just like it does when you're fully disconnected, but with the antirock the feeling changes like if you have added better shocks to your setup to a point of course.

This antirock with the OME L's in the front, in my case, i have manual disconnects in the links so i measured 28 1/4 disconnected, 27 5/8" with the antirock connected
View attachment 4629948



And then same deal on the uptravel
Disconnected
View attachment 4629950

Antirock connected
View attachment 4629952

I didn't do an official measurement with the ORO as i thought it was going to be the same deal as the Antirock, but in a test i did a couple weeks ago with the rear hellwig swaybar, i found with the ORO Swaylock my longer front Fox shocks can open all their 11.5" shock shaft with the Swaylock in fun mode.
This Fox with reservoirs i have are 29 1/8" extended, not a single issue using all the downtravel with the Swaylock. My uptravel is limited by 2" bumpstop extensions and the MC durosprings. i need 2.5 at the very min to protect the shock so i have around 2 3/4" limit in the front anyways and to protect my front grill.

20250301_102259 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20250301_102747 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20250301_102752 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20250311_131453 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

And no i didn't keep the rear Hellwig, in this application that one really limits flex in the back by a good amount, In my case that seems to be 1 1/4, could be more but wasn't able to test that out.

Again nobody will even feel the difference in flex witn an Antirock , the installing of that one is a breeze compared to the sway lock and if i wasn't doing DD duties and doing offroad only it'll be the option ii'll have for the front. With DD duties in mind the Swaylock is a better choice but it also cost a little more, although you can have the cake and eat it too in this instance.

Would these be of interest... Apex Performance autoLYNX Sway Bar Disconnects 800in Stroke - Jeep Rubicon 2007-2018 | X02-05-002|Northridge4x4

 

If you flat tow or ever plan to, stay away from the antirock/rock jock. Just get quick-disconnect endlinks.

 

[QUOTE="rsmwrangler, post: 35543346, member: 1030601]
Again nobody will even feel the difference in flex witn an Antirock , the installing of that one is a breeze compared to the sway lock and if i wasn't doing DD duties and doing offroad only it'll be the option i'll have for the front. With DD duties in mind the Swaylock is a better choice but it also cost a little more, although you can have the cake and eat it too in this instance.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the detailed review. I like how that Swalock system locks up.

Would it be safe to say that the Antirock system is always "disconnected" or feels that way on pavement?

While my Jeep is a weekend off road play toy I do like to attend an occasional Jeep event or drive it to a trail head. The 2 lane paved roads here in South West Missouri are hilly and curvy with no shoulders. If you've heard of the famous Tail of the Dragon road in North Carolina, our roads are similar. I like to drive fast... I'm not in a hurry, but I don't want to take all day to get there, either. I think the Swaylock system would be the way to go for me.

With my JKS removable end links, I can usually only get 1 of them back on after a trail ride. I will then slow down on the drive home and either stop at a paved level parking lot to connect the other one or drive all the way home and connect the 2nd one then. Fully disconnected off road is great. However disconnected on road sucks for handling at least with my cheap lift kit.

 

Thanks for the detailed review. I like how that Swalock system locks up.

Would it be safe to say that the Antirock system is always "disconnected" or feels that way on pavement?

While my Jeep is a weekend off road play toy I do like to attend an occasional Jeep event or drive it to a trail head. The 2 lane paved roads here in South West Missouri are hilly and curvy with no shoulders. If you've heard of the famous Tail of the Dragon road in North Carolina, our roads are similar. I like to drive fast... I'm not in a hurry, but I don't want to take all day to get there, either. I think the Swaylock system would be the way to go for me.

With my JKS removable end links, I can usually only get 1 of them back on after a trail ride. I will then slow down on the drive home and either stop at a paved level parking lot to connect the other one or drive all the way home and connect the 2nd one then. Fully disconnected off road is great. However disconnected on road sucks for handling at least with my cheap lift kit.

The feeling is hard to explain, to a point it feels plushy like it does when you're disconnected, but the axel doesn't flop as freely so you get to experience your shocks doing a better work of dampening the axel as it travels up/down with better control. Offroad this is a lot better without a single doubt, but onroad if you take a turn a little more aggressive than normal you may need to need to wear a new underwear . if you're driving slow and easy you'll be fine, but as it was said above, any emergency maneuver might give you a chance to have a chat with god more closer and examine your needs to DD the setup. I know a lot of people will say you need to slow down when you drive an Antirock, i know i did and i know i tried to slow down, then you go in the fwy and next thing you know you're doing 70-75mph with a lower sway bar rate in the front.. This is why i say the Antirock is better on a Jeep that doesn't do a lot DD duties and it is almost always or always in a dirt road.

If it's a DD and you don't want to worry about changing your normal DD habits, Swaylock is the way to go, the rate on the swaybar when in onroad mode is supposed to be higher than stock.
then when going to the trail, flick the lever and go on your offroad bussines. Little more money, little more time installing but it's not bad.
I have some install notes in post#377 in my build thread

https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/my-18-sport-s-build.2423699/page-19?post_id=35362125#post-35362125

 

I wouldn't say it feels disconnected but there is certainly more squish in the front end vs a solid connection. Plenty of twisty roads where I'm at. I have hit a few corners that made me pucker but I was really just going to fast. A lifted 2 door isn't designed for high speed cornering to start with. The only concern I have is making a panic maneuver. Not sure how well it will go with hard braking and a hard cut of the wheel to avoid an accident. It is nice not having to mess with the connections but I also miss the feel and flex of being completely disconnected. Overall I'm happy with it, have no desire to go back, and would do it again.