My gut reaction is to tell you to find another shop. One that specializes in jeeps, because these guys obviously do not. What kind of wheeling do you plan on doing in it?


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He may be more familiar with TJs if he knows Jeeps at all I suspect - but those are an entirely different creature than a JK. By design, they needed pretty large lifts. A JK does not need a 4 inch lift to run 35s, and unless you have aftermarket axles, stock axles get very unhappy with caster angles on that much lift, even on a four door. (I run 37s on a 2.5 lift with flat Fenders.)

Get a 2.5 lift - Rock Krawler or Metalcloak. Maybe 3.5 if you wheel. (Breakover angles on a four door suck.)

Your swaybar disconnect will work fine - you will also have the ability to manually disconnect with the new lift. At 2.5 inches, driveshafts are much less of a concern. Now they will still go quicker than on stock suspension, so keep an eye on them. Especially if you Offroad and flex a lot. The higher the lift, the bigger impact to the driveline.

 

(Breakover angles on a four door suck.)

You should just put this in your sig.

I ended up ordering a 4 inch lift and exhaust spacers and 35's on 20x12. Is there anything else i should need?
Here is the kit I ordered. I am going to attempt to install it myself.

That's a lot of lift for 35's....

 

Hello everyone,

I am still doing research on what set up I want get run on my wife's jeep.
It will be 2017 4 door rubicon.

I went to our local shop and told the guy I was wanting to run 35x12.50 on a 20x12 -44 rim.
He said I would probably need to do a 4" lift.
He recommended Teraflex 4" kit over the Rough country lift.
JK 4 Door 4" Lift Kit w/ 8 FlexArms, Trackbar & 9550 Shocks

He said it is around 2800 vs 1200 for RC, but he said it is well worth the money. I have been trying to do some research on it, but have not found much.

A few questions about it.
Do I need to run new driveshafts? (The website says it is recommended)
He mentioned the rubicon has automatic sway bar disconnect. He was not sure if you would loose this function with this lift?
How is the ride quality on this.

Any feedback on this lift positive or negative would be appreciated.

4" is OK on a 4 door, but all the posts above are correct. The geometry changes will either make a Jeep that rides poorly, or take a lot of money to do correctly.

If I could be blunt, given your chosen wheel size I assume this will be street rig. If so, then IMO go with the WF lift (2.5" Teraflex) that has the geo correction brackets. This will give you a nice riding Jeep that will clear a 35" tire. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/most-popular-lift-shock-setup-on-wf-1136938.html

Rock Krawler and Metal Cloak are also great lifts, but the WF lift with urethane bushings will ride better than a lift with flex joints. Probably what you want for a rig that's mainly a street rig.

No worries for the sway disco at either 4" or 2.5" If your shop doesn't know that then I suggest finding a more knowledgeable shop OR do the work yourself. You can knock out that lift in a day with a jack, jack stands and common tools.

Good luck! :thumb:

 

does the new rubicon come lifted already a inch. or is that the recon edition

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Thats only the Recon.

 

so if I get a 2 inch lift on the recon it will actually be a 3 inch lift?

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No not true. You will be removing your stock springs off and use new springs that your new lift kit supplies. Although some lifts may net you more than their adverticed height. But thats another topic

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I run the same size rim/tire combo on a 3" lift +AEV relocation brackets, stock driveshaft. Zero issues.

You will give up some handling with that wide of a rim.mine wants to grab every rut and imperfection on the road. You're basically constantly correcting when driving because it will pull you.

 

Wow those wheels stick way out from the fenders

 

2.5" lift is what i would recommend for your needs. You can still offroad with 2.5" and 35" no problem, as long as you keep your sway bars connected otherwise some rubbing may happen.

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Always disconnect.....


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Some clarity...

35's and 2.5 is a very common build. Properly designed, there is no rubbing. For example, the TF 2.5 is bump stopped specifically for 35's with wheel back spacing between 4.5 and 5.0.

Take a look at the WF Most Popular Lift. It's a TF 2.5 optimized for performance using factory fenders.

It has nothing to do with disconnecting or not.

 

anybody have any feedback on Mopar®*77070088*Stage I 2" Lift Kit with Fox Shocks*for 12-15 Jeep®*Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door. they are putting it on my 17 rubicon recon and was told it's fine for dd and weekend roading

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Quite popular and a HUGE thread on it. The one thing that is recommended is to NOT use the cam bolts in the kit and to add either AEV geometry brackets or a set of front lower control arms.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/mopar-2-inch-lift-77070088-with-fox-shocks-972321.html

3500 posts... Just read the last 10 pages or so.

 

I have jeep installing it would they be aware of that or they will play dumb and just install what's in the box. what's the issue with the bolts also ?

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They will just install what's in the box unless you work it out with them in advance. Cam bolts are significantly less reliable than other methods of caster correction. They are know to go out of adjustment and even fail.

Read this specific post on a Mopar lift:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/the-new-mopar-4-lift-kit-1285697-9.html#post29058754

 

I will speak to dealership today and tell them to swap out those bolts for whatbyiu guys advised. is it something I can do (newbie)

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It can be done at home, but it requires being able to put 125ftlbs of torque on 8 bolts.

This is my recommendation.

https://www.quadratec.com/p/aev/geometry-correction-brackets-07-17-wrangler

Some dealers can get them. Otherwise I would order them and have the dealer put them on when they do the lift.

 

2.5" Teraflex lift with 9550 shocks

I've had the 2.5" Teraflex lift with 9550 shocks and 35x12.5 Toyo ATIIs on 17" Fuel rims (-12 offset I think) on my JKU for about 2 months now. The tires clear with no problem and stick out about 1-2". The ride is friggin' amazing, way better than stock. I don't seem to get pulled around by road imperfections too bad. This is cheapish kit at $700 but works great. Also if you get it done by a shop make sure to ask for break on the price, they usually buy for a reduced price and can pass along some of the savings to you. Make sure whoever does it keeps the brake lines from rubbing the rear shocks.....

 

I've had the 2.5" Teraflex lift with 9550 shocks and 35x12.5 Toyo ATIIs on 17" Fuel rims (-12 offset I think) on my JKU for about 2 months now. The tires clear with no problem and stick out about 1-2". The ride is friggin' amazing, way better than stock. I don't seem to get pulled around by road imperfections too bad. This is cheapish kit at $700 but works great. Also if you get it done by a shop make sure to ask for break on the price, they usually buy for a reduced price and can pass along some of the savings to you. Make sure whoever does it keeps the brake lines from rubbing the rear shocks.....

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You guys are making the decision hard. So many different options and the all look awesome!
That is good to hear that it drives good. That is the main thing I am worried that it will drive like a wagon.

 

Run your Vin if you're unsure of gearing. I don't think 4.10s are a give in if you have a rubi.

 

We have not bought the jeep yet. Planning on buying a rubicon in May and immediately getting it lifted and 35s.
I just want to make the right decision since it is a lot of money to make a mistake with.

 

I ended up ordering a 4 inch lift and exhaust spacers and 35's on 20x12. Is there anything else i should need?
Here is the kit I ordered. I am going to attempt to install it myself.

 

35s on 20" rims is gonna be a bitch of a ride...

but to be a little more helpful. Tool wise, 6 ton jack stands and an impact wrench make a world of difference.

 

Bigger isn't always better when it comes to Jeeps. There may be "only" 1/2 inch difference between 3.5 and 4 - but it is a very significant difference for your driveline and steering. Stock axles just arent designed to work with those angles at 4+. I would be prepared to address driveline and steering. If you are lucky, it will drive marginally well. If you aren't, your wallet is about to get a lot lighter trying to compensate for that much lift.

Those tires are going to look tiny on 4 inches of lift. And that's a very large and bit too wide wheel for the standard 35x12.5 - is it really a 12 inch wheel or is that a typo I hope?

 

Not a typo lol. We have been looking at pictures and videos and the wife wants the 12 wide wheels. She likes the stock fenders so I do. It think it will look to bad. I just hope I can keep it driving decent.

 

A TeraFlex 4" kit is designed to work with real 37's. For 35's either our 3" kit or 2.5" kit would really work. Every brand has a different lift height vs tire size combo. Call me if you have any concerns.

Joe @ TeraFlex

 

Hi Joe,

I already ordered the 4" kit. It actually was just delivered to my house an hour ago. I just need to know if there is anything else that did not come with the kit that I should look into getting. I am going to run nitto ridge grapplers with a 20x12 -44 offset. This is going on my wife's 4 door rubicon 2017. This will be a street jeep for now.

I am going to try to install it myself, so wondering if there is anything I should know or take into consideration.

Our local off-road shop told me I would need a 4" lift to clear this tire and wheel combo.

 

Steering dampener isn't your issue, driveline angle is. Aka angle it puts all the steering parts at. Generally over 3.5 folks start needing to flip the draglink to get steering geometry back. So it would be a draglink flip kit not a dampener.

Even when a driveshaft starts to go, it will give warning. It won't explode overnight. You will see it flinging grease on the bottom, then hear the "thump thump" when the plastic boot tears and hits stiff, then end of the road is when it starts clicking (basically it lost so much grease it destroys the driveshaft joints). I personally would go ahead and replace, but that's your call. The rear generally will hold out a little longer than the front, but there are exceptions to every rule of course.

Let us know how the install goes.

 

Omg please.... there's plenty of sidewall on my 20x12s. We get it...you're a hardcore offroader.

To the original poster, don't let her scare you away from 20x12s if that's what you like . Yes they aren't optimal for hardcore rock crawling or aggressive off roading because you cant air down as much, but theyve done good by me in every scenerio I've put them through. She's right about the driveline / steering issues though . I'd keep it at 3 to 3.5 max . No need for 4".

 

Nothing in my comment was directed to offroading - please get your facts straight. Nittos own tech specs for the 35x12.5 do not recommend a 12 inch wheel. Tires are expensive. If the OP mounts those tires, they will void any warranty or replacement cert as they are mounted outside of manufacturer specification. The OP can definitely run a 12 inch wheel if that's what they want, it's their Jeep - but not recommended with that tire.

 

Nitto lists the 13.5 up to a 12 inch wheel so that would be better. What you need to make sure of is backspace on your wheels - if your backspace is too high (the wheel sits in closer for a simple explanation) it may rub frame/body/control arms. However, once you get into wheels with low backspace, you start putting more stress on other pieces. Another option is wheel spacers - I won't run them and many tire chains won't touch them, but some folks do.

 

The wheels have a -44 offset so the are really deep like the picture of the black jeep above, so it definitely should not rub on the inside.
This will not be taken off-road so I hope it does not put to much stress on everything.
I just want it to drive smooth and straight.
I will email the place I ordered the wheels and tires from and see if they would recommend the 13.50 wide as well.