Buy the new trans or a good used... stay away from 'rebuilt'.... a bunch of used parts from multiple trashed transmissions.... while there ARE good ones out there, there's also a fair chance of getting a lemon...

 

Novak or advance adapters for new. I wouldn't buy a rebuilt unless it was working mostly right before a rebuild. I've seen many transmissions that were "rebuilt" but the rebuilder obviously never checked clearances, shaft runout or other important things reputable shops do.

 

Ok First I want to do this also. I also have a midwest rebuilt transmission that sticks in second gear and wont come out. I changed the oil and it was full of metal shavings. I called and they said it was out of warranty. I bought the jeep at the end of the warranty period and not putting good money after bad. So a ax15 is a good choice. I will be following.

 

Splines only need to match the clutch disc so have to get one that patches the splines


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Thanks Digger84, that makes sense. So I'm reading this to simply replace the clutch with 4.0L clutch to work with the AX15 10-spline input. Then that makes input 10 spline and on the other end, the adapter makes output 23 spline. All good.

 

This is out of my wheelhouse, but I'm thinking check Flywheel too for clutch surface area.

 

Don't spend $200 on an input gear...
Call davies jeeps and get one for like $20

 

I don't know if you need a linkage bracket but if you do, get it from davies...
Really doubt you need the linkage

Can't see any reason you'd want a nv3500 shifter for an ax15... won't fit

 

Status: Transmission is out, stripping off the Transfer Case, Bell Housing, clutch release, and removing the Clutch Assembly
Next Issue: Clutch and Flywheel

Issue: The AX5 has a 9-1/8" disk with a 1-1/8" 14-spline input and the AX5 flywheel accepts a 0.59" tip. The AX-15 has a 10.4" disk with 1-1/8" 10-spline input and the I6 flywheel accepts a 0.75" tip.

Solution:
Clutch: Advance Adapters makes a 9-1/8" disk ($78.95) with 1-1/8" 10-spline input and 0.75" tip that can be used with a standard AX5 clutch cover (reuse or purchase new from any auto parts store). Novack offers a clutch assembly for the conversion with the 9-1/8" disk, 1-1/8" 10-spline input and 0.75" tip ($144). Don't forget a clutch tool!
Flywheel: Both Novak and Advance Adapters make a Bushing to fit the AX5 Flywheel and the AX15 Transmission. Requires the a special tool (Puller) to remove the old, then insert the new. I think I can get the puller on loan from our local auto parts store. Though it might be a challenge with the lock down.

Everyone has limited response capability, so moving forward will get slower. Once I place the orders, I'll update.

 

New Issue: Clutch Release Arm.
Question: Can I reuse the AX5 clutch release arm with the AX15 transmission. Anyone know for sure?

New Issue: Clutch Slave Cylinder
Question: Can I reuse the AX5 External Slave Cylinder with the AX15 transmission. Anyone know for sure?

 

The fork and bearing are the same part in '94 ax-5 and ax-15, though anything inside the bell housing I'd replace with new while the transmission is out.

Clutch parts will most likely be less expensive from Rockauto and probably get to you faster, they don't fool around with shipping.

 

Update on the Dakota Bell Housing: Earlier I was not sure if the extra length of the Dakota housing would create any problems. Confirmed, no issues. So highly recommend starting your search for a 96-99 Dakota 2.5L bell housing as soon as you can. Or, your other choice is to reuse the AX5 BH and buy a $475 adapter. These Dakota years used the AX15 transmission with the I4 engine. Makes a great conversion BH.

 

You could have also just gotten a clutch kit and all needed parts for these years of dakota's as they have the same 2.5l I4 motor as jeeps.

 

You don't need any special tool to remove the pilot bushing, just pack it full of bread and drive a punch in more bread and repeat until it comes out
Really just regular old bread like you make a sandwich with and a punch that's fairly close to the size of the hole in the bushing

 

Measure the tip of your transmission input shaft and buy a wooden dowel as close to that size as you can find. (Naturally a larger one won't fit into the opening in the pilot bearing). Cram the hole in the bearing with white bread (best) but most any bread will do., Compress the bread by pounding on the dowel. Add bread as necessary until the bearing comes out. A bolt can work in lieu of a dowel, or anything similar. The bread is the trick.

Good Luck, L.M.

 

I decided to go with a used transmission. Ordered it yesterday from "Deadjeeps". The cost of new was putting this AX5 to AX15 conversion price tag to almost what I paid for the jeep. So I'm going with a combination of new/used parts:
Used:
AX15 Transmission
Used Shifter and handle w/spring twist lock
Used AX-15 4x4 Shifting linkage, bracket, linkage rod, shifter and handle

Finalizing the New parts order with Novack. Publish once ordered.

 

Next Issue: I was going to used the "bread method" to get the pilot bearing out, but its actually mounted behind the flywheel. So now I'm removing the flywheel, then the pilot bearing. That will mark a milestone where I'll finish the tear-out part and I'll now officially start the rebuild portion!!

 

Please post a pic. I can't picture in my mind how the flywheel can block access to the pilot bearing.

Good Luck, L.M.

 

Luckymac you were right. Tried unsuccessfully to push it out with bread, so I thought it was behind the flywheel. Pulled the flywheel and pushed it out in about a minute, so saved lots of time pulling the flywheel. Attached are 2 pictures. One with the pilot bearing in the flywheel, the 2nd with the Flywheel pulled and Pilot bearing out.

 

Well, live and learn. That's the first time I've seen a pilot bearing in the flywheel rather than in the end of the crankshaft. My career was in auto body rather than mechanics so there's a whole lot for me to learn in my retirement if I want to be the one that maintains my vehicles.

Good Luck, L.M.

 

That was new to me, too. I put a 92 transmission in my 91, and had to do the pilot bearing conversion (AX15 pilot tip changed between those two years). Read tons of "tricks" to pop the old one out (bread/grease + dowel), they all sounded awesome and none of them worked. Had to brute force it out using a bearing puller, and even that meant shredding the thing and pulling it out in pieces one needle bearing at a time. Pounding the new bushing in (the adapter just replaces the pilot bearing with a bushing that has the same OD and a bigger ID) sucked, too, had to use a 3 lb sledge hammer. Could have probably done some real damage but I lucked out and didn't.

 

Following your post OP...

I blew the 2.5L motor in my Jeep last week. Luckily my neighbor has a 96 Dakota that just got totaled from being sideswiped with a dump truck. He's selling me the motor and transmission for a couple hundred bucks (tranny is 5spd RWD only). Problem is those Dakota's came with AX15 and I have an AX5. I'm debating if I should just swap bellhousings between the 2 motors or if I should convert to AX15, there's a guy in town that has a Cherokee Salvage yard that I could pick one up cheap. Also didn't know what else would need to be upgraded or customized like the driveshafts. Looks like you're running into all kinds of headaches trying to convert.

Found some links with specs on the 2 transmissions, hopefully they'll help.

The Novak Guide to the Aisin-Warner AX5 Transmission

The Novak Guide to the Aisin-Warner AX5 Transmission

www.novak-adapt.com

The Novak Guide to the Aisin-Warner AX15 Transmission

The Novak Guide to the Aisin-Warner AX15 Transmission

www.novak-adapt.com

http://myplace.frontier.com/~chris83803/Bell_Housing_Info.pdf

 

2.5L--->AX15 swap update!

OK guys i know a few of you are interested in this. Most people say that an AX15 cannot be mated to a 2.5L in place of the weak ax5. Well thanks to a tip from Greg_5599. I decided to try this swap. WHat you need is a bellhousing from a 96-98 4 cyl dodge dakota. The dakota uses the same 2.5l...

www.pirate4x4.com

 

Status Update:

• Ordered the pilot bearing for the flywheel from Novak Conversions, this converts the AX5 0.59" pilot tip to the AX15 0.75" pilot tip at the flywheel.
• Ordered the clutch assembly from Novak Conversions. Its a conversion kit that has a 9-1/8" disk with matching pressure plate to mate-up to the AX15 transmission. The AX15 normally has a 10.4" disk, so this is one legacy issue to be aware if clutch work is needed in the future.

As always, one project leads to another, and another.....

Additional Project: My jeep has a 3" lift, so I'm deciding whether to add a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) Kit to my list of actions.
As part of the transmission conversion, I have to tear down the NP231 transfer case to replace the input gear (change from AX5 21-spline to AX15 23-spline input gear) and customize the drive shaft cut to fit the new transmission, so its a good time to install an SYE kit with only a little extra effort. There's several Youtube videos that walk you through the install, but I'm not sure if the conversion is worth the expense.

Additional Project: My oil pan leaks along all the edges, so while I'm under the Jeep I'm pulling the pan and replacing the gasket.

All other parts are "in the mail" or at least ordered, so next update after delivery.

 

Status Update: Opened the NP231 Transfer case and removed the input gear.

Needed to get actual dimensions, to get replacement 23-spline.

 

You have the opportunity to replace the rear main seal with the flywheel off. I personally think the SYE is a great idea as there are several benefits such as the transfer case not leaking fluid if you break the rear shaft, you can get rid of a transfer case drop to regain an additional 2" ground clearance, much stronger than the cheap thin wall slip yoke, and less chance of driveline vibrations.

 

Thanks, great idea. Rear seal is a definite. Ordered it.

 

Back in my younger days I converted a couple 300zx from auto to five speed
The auto had a steel alignment doughnut for the tit on the torque converter
I tried many days many tools including slide hammer all with no Success even drilled one out to let a bushing pass thru center but then I found this little tool and it made is super easy

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

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That is the EXACT tool I used to finally remove the outer ring of it successfully. By the time I got the tool, it was just the outer ring of the pilot bearing left, though. I ended up ripping out the inner ring and needle bearings with a slide hammer (after trying the bread and grease thing--it was pretty disgusting).

Incidentally, if I ever have to pull the bushing out, I'm probably screwed. It's longer than the pilot bearing was, and the jaws of that puller can't spread out far enough when it's inside to grip the back of the bushing. I checked before I put the transmission back in.

 

Question: Any advantage to replacing the NP231 transfer case 1-inch chain with a 1.25-inch and gears?

Found a used package for about $110 or $190 to include an upgraded planetary gear. I always think "bigger is better", but I've found that's not always best or worth doing. Any thoughts?

 

Changing both sprockets and coining to wide chain as found in 231dhd case is an upgrade but really not needed with a four banger

Changing from the three gear planetary to a cage with 4 or 6 planets (like found in 241c) can also be done but three works fine

When changing planets/cage be aware early vs late tooth profile as teeth in ring gear in case and planet gears and sun in input all must have same tooth profile to prevent self destruction of gears

Also when installing a SYE you loose the roller bearings between sprocket and output and if installing wide chain may have to remove both those roller bearings and the bronze synchro. Both of which are ideal to have with a cad axle


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Thanks, I was thinking it was more of a "nice to have" upgrade. But with the NP231 open, I wanted to at least investigate the upgrade. The existing Planetary has 6 gears and the 1-inch chain/gears are all in great shape, so I'll stay with the 1-inch chain. You're spot on with the early versus late gearing differences. My 1994 was still in transition to the later gearing and my JY appears to be an early type.