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Do these fuel trims look normal at idle?

27K views 50 replies 8 participants last post by  0_0juan0_0  
#1 ·
I’ve been dealing with some bad gas mileage for a while. 2008 3.8 2 door JK 135k miles with the automatic transmission 3.73 gears and 255/75/17 bfgoodrich mud terrains. I was on jscan and was looking at these fuel trims at idle and I wasn’t sure if these were where they should be? I was leaning towards new o2 sensors but i wanted some confirmation first. i also have no loss in power and baby the throttle.
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#6 ·
Trims can and will fluctuate all the time, Sure they should be zero in their most optimal situation but if you're pumping Gas with 10% ethanol they will never be zero, manufacturers have baked a new stoich ratio in some vehicles to account for the E10 stuff. 10-11% is a little high at idle but not bad, they can go + or - 25% max, past that range you get a too lean or too reach codes. are they settling down closer to zero when you're driving around ?
 
#8 ·
Sure they should be zero in their most optimal situation but if you're pumping Gas with 10% ethanol they will never be zero,
Rsmrangler, can you clarify? This statement belies experience. I've verified fuel trims on various vehicles, and most have settled around a LTFT of zero or slightly above (under 5%). I currently run 10% ethanol gasoline in my Wrangler, RX350, and Land Cruiser. With the exception of the Lexus, LTFT remains steady around zero. Lexus is currently somewhere between 4 and 7. I've observed no noticeable difference in trims moving from an area where we had access to non-ethanol gasoline to an area that doesn't.

In addition, it would seem strange that later model vehicles, whose engineers anticipate heavier use of ethanol blends, would exhibit higher trims using e10, but old TJs and Land Cruisers wouldn't.
 
#12 ·
Nice. With your fuel trim numbers and cleaned throttle body and MAP, I'd rule out a vacuum leak next.

Regarding O2 sensors, what kind of numbers are you getting on them?
i don’t think i’m able to pull o2 sensor data on jscan? how would i check for a vacuum leak? would i just use a smoke machine on the vacuum line where the brake booster goes? how many vacuum lines are there?
 
#14 ·
You may have to change the MAP. I didn't know this:

"On engines that use a manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor to determine airflow, a vacuum leak does not affect fuel trim because the extra air (pressure) in the manifold is still measured by the MAP sensor."

I hope we can get someone with experience in diagnosing fuel trim anomalies on MAP systems.
 
#16 ·
So that rules out a vacuum leak, I kind of figured it wasn't that. So no possibility of it being the o2 sensors? it does have 135k miles. Is there anyway of cleaning them out if anything? I don't mind replacing them if I have to but it'd have to wait until after the holidays unfortunately.
 
#19 ·
To illustrate: when the downstream O2 sensor of my Land Cruiser failed, it was reading between 0.01 and 0.20 and averaged 0.04 on a two hour trip. All of the other O2 sensors fluctuated freely between 0.10 and 0.90. Under these conditions, only bank 1 fuel trims were affected; and even then, they never reached double digits.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Also from the OP jscan print screens while the LTFT's are showing 10% the STFT's are 0 or negative. He has also stated the Jeep is running good without any issues. OP you can do a simple thing for now, reset your battery. Just disconnect the + terminal for say 30 min or so. What we're looking is to reset your fuel trims so next time you start the Jeep they're at 0% and they'll start learning again. Also to keep in mind your o2 sensors have 135k miles so they're not exactly new. they're a key component that make your fuel trims. You can monitor their voltage but without a way to see that voltage in a diagram to see how fast or slow they cycle up and down i don't know if you can make a determination of whether or not they're tired already or not.
 
#36 ·
You have confirmed the trims may be a little more normal for your year model though on both vehicles used for the test have over 100k miles and the o2 snesors tend to react slower with miles and you may see some drifting towards the lean side.

Confirm your fuel trims after doing the battery reset and take a look at both stft and ltfts. You didn't have to change the MAP unless you were getting a MAP DTC.
You may just need basic tune up stuff, new plugs, new wires, new o2 sensors, new air filter, do an injector cleaning, etc.
Also going from MT to AT makes a nice difference.
 
#37 ·
You have confirmed the trims may be a little more normal for your year model though on both vehicles used for the test have over 100k miles and the o2 snesors tend to react slower with miles and you may see some drifting towards the lean side.

Confirm your fuel trims after doing the battery reset and take a look at both stft and ltfts. You didn't have to change the MAP unless you were getting a MAP DTC.
You may just need basic tune up stuff, new plugs, new wires, new o2 sensors, new air filter, do an injector cleaning, etc.
Also going from MT to AT makes a nice difference.
new plugs, wires, filter, pcv valve,full synthetic oil and mopar filter about 1k miles ago so i guess only thing left is o2 sensors.
 
#40 ·
Yeah that is not good, especially with no other changes. Just asking because I have seen people on here put different size tires on their rig and lose some MPG's and not take into account the different tire sizes. The fact you know what fuel trims are tells me your not in the same boat. I was just curious if you were talking going from 20 -18 or something more drastic, I would say 9-10 is more drastic.......I lose about 2 mpg's each winter with our winter blend fuel.
 
#45 ·
i checked my EGR commanded and EGR error and they stayed at 0 until about over 1.5k RPMS which is when my fuel trims start to get closer to 0, after 1.5k rpm’s the egr commanded ranges from about 35-69 with an ever age of about 45 and the egr error will be all over the place from -3 to even 99 with an ever age of about 30 or so.