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Poor steering. Pulling left. Need help.

1.8K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  mav031  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey all. 2017 2dr JK. 3.5" lift. 35" tires.

Having lots of problems with my steering.
-While driving the jeep pulls to the left. I have to hold the wheel in order to drive straight. The wheel overall feels flighty/loose, and when braking from high speeds the wheel starts to shake a lot. Wheel alignment did not help (attached pic of the printout).

Tried doing a quick steer test. Looks like there is some up/down movement on the passenger side drag link/tie rod.


-What do you guys think? Tie rod? Drag link? Is it mandatory to replace both at the same time?

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

#2 ·
Pax side and driver side suspension slop. Play your video at 0.25X speed and you can see it.

Don't know when that alignment spec sheet was printed, but presumably not any time recently. It is misleading to post your alignment spec sheet from ## years ago. Please. No reputable shop would have let you leave like that. Unless you refused recommended service.

Get your Jeep to your nearest Tire / Brake / Shock type of shop and get it corrected. Cake work.
 
#4 ·
I would start with getting under the front and have someone turn the steering wheel left and right and look for play in any suspension components with front wheels on the ground. Obviously, please be careful. Could be many items, but tie rods ends and loose trackbar are suspect. Then I would get the front end off the ground, support at axles with jack stands. I would have someone step on the brakes and see if you can turn immediately each front wheel. You might have a brake dragging. This is very common. I'm thinking you have a collapsed front brake hose or hoses. Those metal brackets at the spring perch tend to rust on the inside and crush the hose. It will act as a one way valve. Brakes may release eventually as fluid slowly returns to master cylinder. Will cause nose diving and pulling hard to one side when braking at highway speed. Easy fix, by bending open the bracket and freeing the line, secure with some cable ties. Or get new hoses. Most use braided replacements without the perch bracket. Of course it could be multiple items also. Let us know what you find and we can make some suggestions. Good luck you will find it.
 
#11 ·
Start here, and adjust your budget. The Steersmarts for $390 would be my first choice then Synergy. If you are just getting rid of the jeep then by all means go cheap and inexpensive. Moog would be even a downgrade from stock, imo. OEM is fine but not when you start changing out the tires/wheels for wider and heavier replacements, plus lifting. All this adds strain and that's why you need to upgrade.

 
#12 · (Edited)
Start here, and adjust your budget. The Steersmarts for $390 would be my first choice then Synergy. If you are just getting rid of the jeep then by all means go cheap and inexpensive. Moog would be even a downgrade from stock, imo. OEM is fine but not when you start changing out the tires/wheels for wider and heavier replacements, plus lifting. All this adds strain and that's why you need to upgrade.
Thanks I will look into those.
Also, is it OK to change just the tie rod (and leave the stock drag link)? How would that affect the steering? Or is it kind of mandatory to change both at the same time?

Budget is a concern factoring in labor/wheel alignment (the MOOG kit with both bars is the same price as the steer smarts tie rod). So it would be like $400 for both MOOG bars, or $400 for just the YETI tie rod.
 
#13 ·
I will 2nd Steer Smart components, as I've had lengthy, good luck with them.

But, like AndyE emphasizes, take it someplace reputable. 99% of the time, you should get an alignment after changing these parts.
 
#15 ·
I will 2nd Steer Smart components, as I've had lengthy, good luck with them.
Does the Steer Smarts Yeti tie rod include everything? (The tie rod ends, adjusting sleeve, damper bracket)? I've been seeing some parts that are incomplete.
 
#18 · (Edited)
In your video we can only see the passenger side of your steering, both the DL and TR ends are moving in a way they should not be moving (up/down) They should only rotate backward/forward as they have a built in misaligment so it should be safe to say both ends on the passenger side of your DL and TR are toasted.
You should also be checking your BJ's for play, if they move up/down as well they're toasted.

If you have couple of tools and measuring tape you can do this work yourself (change DL and TR). It's simple and the alignment is easy as well. You're only adjusting toe. if you know how to turn a wrench is half day job taking your time since it'll be your first time :) If you're NOT doing rocks, OE steering will work with 35's but you want to at least replace what you have with something that will last. I've tried Moog and Crown and they're 100% trash, 1 year at most and you'll be replacing these parts again.. Mopar at least will last but i understand it's expensive for what it's. HD aftermarket is more expensive but you should get the piece of mind and many trouble free miles.

The Rockjock currectlink is $668 is a a simple install. Better ends than anytthing Moog does and beefier bars. This is an upgrade from the OE stuff but the tierod is not rock proof just in case.

For something a lot more heavy duty I like Synergy steering but it's more expensive as well. They've have been in business forever and their rod ends are simple and robust, their bars are made to last, Made in USA components.

Not a fan of the aluminum steering but you have options in that camp as well and cheaper too depending on components
for example


Or if on a budget OE stuff from Crown and the like is cheaper, again this is not HD at all, is OE stuff. Nothing in the OE aftermarket last as long as Mopar does, it's cheaper yes but that's all. I've tried this stuff. This is crap for a year at best, but if you need something now and cheap and you're not doing rocks this will do just fine. It came handy for me once, i'm cheap what can i say :)
 
#20 ·
Thanks man. I appreciate this informative reply. Correct. No rocks with my Jeep. Only over landing/dirt roads and such.

Quick questions:

1. Why against aluminum? My Jeep is pretty heavy as it is. Wouldn't this lighten the weight a bit?

2. Just to get one more opinion. If you had a budget of around $400 for the part, would you get:
-The cheaper set of both DL and TR? Cheaper, but both are brand new.
-Or would you get the Steer Smarts tie rod only (heavy duty/high quality, but keep the stock DL)? At least for the time being and will replace down the road.

Thanks.