[kraigc3]

I’m struggling to understand why getting control arms would be better than just getting geo brackets. From what I understand the Rancho Geo Brackets are adjustable depending on what size lift you go with whereas control arms are fixed. Wouldn’t it make more sense to go with geo brackets so you can adjust as you add height to your jeep over the long haul?

I assume one drawback is the geo brackets are much bulkier and when crawling you’re going to make contact from time to time? They seem pretty beefy so I don’t think you would have to worry about damaging them correct? Obviously if you slide off a big rock directly down on the bracket that’s going to cause issue but just scraping and banging them shouldn’t be a big deal.

 

[Mocs123]

You can buy adjustable control arms.

The reason control arms are preferable to geo brackets (to some) is just what you said, the geo brackets are low hanging and can reduce clearance.

 

[GuzziMoto]

I’m struggling to understand why getting control arms would be better than just getting geo brackets. From what I understand the Rancho Geo Brackets are adjustable depending on what size lift you go with whereas control arms are fixed. Wouldn’t it make more sense to go with geo brackets so you can adjust as you add height to your jeep over the long haul?

I assume one drawback is the geo brackets are much bulkier and when crawling you’re going to make contact from time to time? They seem pretty beefy so I don’t think you would have to worry about damaging them correct? Obviously if you slide off a big rock directly down on the bracket that’s going to cause issue but just scraping and banging them shouldn’t be a big deal.

So, first off it really isn't a case of one being "better" than the other. It is two different answers, each one with advantages and disadvantages.
Geometry brackets will deliver a better ride, but they do reduce ground clearance a little and if you off road in rocks or other situations where clearance is key you may drag the brackets. Also, they use the stock control arms which aren't as strong as many aftermarket options, and some aftermarket options will also be a little freer with regard to articulation. Plus beefy after market arms look cool.
Control arms that are fixed length and longer are one option, they tend to give a fixed amount of additional caster and often they will be stronger and may flex a little easier. Also, they usually look cool.
Adjustable arms allow you to adjust how much caster they add, as well as being stronger and perhaps easier to flex. And the look even cooler than the fixed arms.
In my book the best answer is both adjustable arms and geometry brackets. But if you are only doing one and you aren't fixated on ground clearance I would recommend the geometry brackets.

 

[Wandell]

You nailed it. I went with the Rancho geometry brackets since there are no rocks to crawl in south Ga. LOL

 

[4Jeepn]

I have the brackets and yes if i don't pick a good line I can hit them.. but as stated they are beefy(have the rancho's).. as i see it the advantage is you don't have to dial in the adj control arm.. the geo's are for the most part pick the right bolt hole and be done..

 

[JTPhoto JK]

Adjustable control arms CANNOT do what Geo brackets do and that is correct the geometry.. This directly from the AEV website.. They hold the original design for the Geo brackets..


QUOTE
"
Geometry Bracket Key Benefits:

• – Improve front impact ride quality (expansion joints, ledges) – By reducing the operating angle of the front control arms, the suspension is allowed to work in a more natural state. This means that when hitting a bump, the force applied to the control arms is directed up into the springs instead of back directly into the frame. In effect an AEV 3.5″ lifted JK “thinks” its lifted only 1.25″.
• – Change the instant center to increase Anti-Dive for improved braking performance – By increasing the anti-dive geometry of the suspension, you’ll notice the front of the vehicle will barely drop under hard braking when the control arm brackets are used. By increasing force on the front wheels, traction is increased for better straight line braking and by reducing the shifting weight and inertia under braking in curves, handling is greatly improved.
• – Decrease the operating angle range of the front driveshaft – This one is often overlooked. Aftermarket double cardan joints do not have the torque rating (1850lb/ft for t a 1310 double cardan, 2150 lb/ft for the OE CV Joint) and they can’t run as smoothly so its advantageous for most JK use to keep the stock CV units. The Front Control Arm Brackets rotate the pinion up as the axle drops to eliminate torn boots on the CV for long life with a lifted application.
• – Eliminate the need for adjustable control arms or cam bolts for caster correction – We’ve been touting the benefits of using the stock control arms for a long time because of the pre-loaded rubber OE Bushings that the factory uses, and because that quality has yet to be rivaled in any aftermarket bushing. These new brackets allow for the proper caster ranges to be achieved.

Please note: Adjustable Control Arms are not a replacement for drop brackets – Its often misunderstood that higher priced adjustable control arms have the same effect as AEV’s control arm brackets and that the brackets are just a cheaper option than providing adjustable control arms. Nothing could be farther from the truth, both components do separate and different things and both have their place under a Jeep. Both products can adjust the castor angle which is where much of the confusion stems from.
AEV’s drop brackets change four distinct parameters:

1. – Lowers arm angle for ride quality.
2. – Lowers the instant center for better braking (antidive).
3. – Decreases operating angle of the driveshaft by reducing the range of travel.
4. – Corrects caster angles.

Adjustable control arms can certainly allow the proper caster angle to be dialed in, however they are incapable of all the other parameter changes, and in fact make the instant center, ride quality and driveshaft angles all worse than stock. Adjustable control arms can do some things that the drop brackets can not:

1. – Move the axle position forward or aft which may be required with aftermarket HD axles.
2. – Change the pinion angles for aftermarket Cardan or Double Cardan driveshafts.
3. – Correct minor deviations in suspension geometry after an accident with mild frame damage."

 

[jetlau3]

I started with the rancho geo brackets . Dragged them over everything on every trail and also damaged my control arms. Went to adjustable front lower control arms, dialed caster, and haven’t looked back .

I upped my lift from 2.5 to 3.5 and went from 33s to 35s to 37s .. dams adjustable control arms .

Buy once cry once . I should have .


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[JeepHerz]

It sounds like you're looking at adding arms or brackets. If you're looking at lifts don't discount a fixed arm designed for your lift height. It's not rocket science to determine what length of arm is needed. I've had the (old version) Mopar 3" for over 5 years- it came with fixed arms. At release everyone ripped the fixed- yet not a SINGLE person with that lift had problems. Lots of people said fixed arms were bad- yet no one could cite an example.
That said...adding them to an existing lift is more of a crap shoot. I'd go adjustables if you wheel; brackets if you don't.

 

[GuzziMoto]

Fixed arms can be great. When you have a lift and it is known that a given fixed arm works great with that lift it can be a good choice. They can offer the added strength of an aftermarket arms, while correcting caster and adding the cool looks factor. I went with them when I started lifting. But the arms I went with were a little long for the lift I had. So I ended up with too much caster. So I did what any normal person would do, I spent a bunch of money on adjustable upper arms to counter the too long lower arms. It actually worked great, until we swapped axles and all the numbers changed. Then the upper arms had to be adjusted so long to get the caster where I wanted it that the tires rubbed the back of the front bump under extreme articulation. So then I replaced the longer lower arms with adjustable lower arms and moved the axle back to where it should be. But fixed lower arms can be a great option. Just buy the right ones. Don't buy them based on which ones looked the coolest (Who, me?).

 

[kraigc3]

I started with the rancho geo brackets . Dragged them over everything on every trail and also damaged my control arms. Went to adjustable front lower control arms, dialed caster, and haven’t looked back .

I upped my lift from 2.5 to 3.5 and went from 33s to 35s to 37s .. dams adjustable control arms .

Buy once cry once . I should have .


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This is my biggest concern. I'll probably only be offroad 2 or 3 times a year but when I do it will be in Moab on moderate trails like Fins or Hells multiple days in a row. I'm stock now and I only scraped my skid two or three times on my last Moab trip which is why I'm only adding a 2 inch lift.

I can't imagine I'll be doing trails much harder than I've already done in the next couple of years but I also don't want to negate that extra clearance I'm adding with the geo brackets which is why I started looking at control arms.

Honestly the geo brackets are probably overkill anyway from what I've read about lifts of 2 inches but as my DD I figured it can't hurt.

 

[jeep63]

I'm satisfied with my fixed TeraFlex sport front LCAs. They put my Jeep back into the 'sweet spot' after installing the TeraFlex 2.5" lift. I do wheel and Geo-brackets, no matter how tough, will hang down and get beat. The whole reason to lift is to raise, why install something that then is lower; makes not sense to me. Now, if you don't wheel I see no reason not to install a geo-bracket.

 

[jadmt]

Adjustable control arms CANNOT do what Geo brackets do and that is correct the geometry.. This directly from the AEV website.. They hold the original design for the Geo brackets..


QUOTE
"
Geometry Bracket Key Benefits:

• – Improve front impact ride quality (expansion joints, ledges) – By reducing the operating angle of the front control arms, the suspension is allowed to work in a more natural state. This means that when hitting a bump, the force applied to the control arms is directed up into the springs instead of back directly into the frame. In effect an AEV 3.5″ lifted JK “thinks” its lifted only 1.25″.
• – Change the instant center to increase Anti-Dive for improved braking performance – By increasing the anti-dive geometry of the suspension, you’ll notice the front of the vehicle will barely drop under hard braking when the control arm brackets are used. By increasing force on the front wheels, traction is increased for better straight line braking and by reducing the shifting weight and inertia under braking in curves, handling is greatly improved.
• – Decrease the operating angle range of the front driveshaft – This one is often overlooked. Aftermarket double cardan joints do not have the torque rating (1850lb/ft for t a 1310 double cardan, 2150 lb/ft for the OE CV Joint) and they can’t run as smoothly so its advantageous for most JK use to keep the stock CV units. The Front Control Arm Brackets rotate the pinion up as the axle drops to eliminate torn boots on the CV for long life with a lifted application.
• – Eliminate the need for adjustable control arms or cam bolts for caster correction – We’ve been touting the benefits of using the stock control arms for a long time because of the pre-loaded rubber OE Bushings that the factory uses, and because that quality has yet to be rivaled in any aftermarket bushing. These new brackets allow for the proper caster ranges to be achieved.

Please note: Adjustable Control Arms are not a replacement for drop brackets – Its often misunderstood that higher priced adjustable control arms have the same effect as AEV’s control arm brackets and that the brackets are just a cheaper option than providing adjustable control arms. Nothing could be farther from the truth, both components do separate and different things and both have their place under a Jeep. Both products can adjust the castor angle which is where much of the confusion stems from.
AEV’s drop brackets change four distinct parameters:

1. – Lowers arm angle for ride quality.
2. – Lowers the instant center for better braking (antidive).
3. – Decreases operating angle of the driveshaft by reducing the range of travel.
4. – Corrects caster angles.

Adjustable control arms can certainly allow the proper caster angle to be dialed in, however they are incapable of all the other parameter changes, and in fact make the instant center, ride quality and driveshaft angles all worse than stock. Adjustable control arms can do some things that the drop brackets can not:

1. – Move the axle position forward or aft which may be required with aftermarket HD axles.
2. – Change the pinion angles for aftermarket Cardan or Double Cardan driveshafts.
3. – Correct minor deviations in suspension geometry after an accident with mild frame damage."

rumor has it that AEV copied Rubicon Express which is kind of funny because AEV does not like anyone copying them

 

[GuzziMoto]

This is my biggest concern. I'll probably only be offroad 2 or 3 times a year but when I do it will be in Moab on moderate trails like Fins or Hells multiple days in a row. I'm stock now and I only scraped my skid two or three times on my last Moab trip which is why I'm only adding a 2 inch lift.

I can't imagine I'll be doing trails much harder than I've already done in the next couple of years but I also don't want to negate that extra clearance I'm adding with the geo brackets which is why I started looking at control arms.

Honestly the geo brackets are probably overkill anyway from what I've read about lifts of 2 inches but as my DD I figured it can't hurt.

The brackets only have two points that end up being lower that matter, the two lower control arm rear mounting points. Those two pints are right behind the front tires and are in line with the frame rails. It is not like a large part of the bottom of the Jeep ends up lower, it is just two points really. It is not going to negate the extra height you got with your lift. But it is up to you.
Most people would be better off with the brackets but I think far more people go with the arms because they think they need the clearance. I know, I was one of them. It was the wrong choice, but it isn't the end of the world. And with a lower lift like the Rancho 2" lift the brackets would make less of a difference compared to a typical 2.5" lift (that actually gives you 3" of lift up front).
If it is a DD I would get the brackets. Ours is for off roading, a weekend toy. We went with the arms. Some day I hope to add the brackets with the arms as it will drive better.

By the way, with the Rancho 2" lift and brackets you will be fine on trails like Fins and Things and Hells Revenge. If the brackets do drag, just adjust your line a little and it will probably be fine. If not, let the brackets drag, they are tough.

 

[JTPhoto JK]

rumor has it that AEV copied Rubicon Express which is kind of funny because AEV does not like anyone copying them

Not sure about that but AEV has been producing them since 2007-08. Hadn’t seen them from Rubicon Express until about the same time Rancho came out with theirs.


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[Nemo Consequentae]

I started with the rancho geo brackets . Dragged them over everything on every trail and also damaged my control arms. Went to adjustable front lower control arms, dialed caster, and haven’t looked back .

I upped my lift from 2.5 to 3.5 and went from 33s to 35s to 37s .. dams adjustable control arms .

Buy once cry once . I should have .


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I went the other way. I installed adjustable lower arms to fix the almost DW magnitude caster shimmy I was getting. Worked great! But the ride on road where I spent 99% of the time was significantly harsher. This is because of the angle of the arms and the fact they had johnny joints at both ends rather than rubber bushes.


After a few months & bought some AEV geo-brackets, (they were the only ones that were on the market at the time), and put the OEM lower arms back in. Ride was much improved, & while they have scraped a few times, I haven't been rough enough on them to cause any damage*. My lower back & 2 dodgy disks greatly approved!


I have them on the setting for the lowest change in angle as I only have a ~2" lift, but no shimmy & ride is great. The lower arms are now horizontal so there is none of the transfer of vertical momentum when I hit bumps that I got with the adjustable LCAs.




*The transmission crossmember, is a whole other story. That cardboard item got replaced with a heavy duty PS one, since it was bent & buckled from the PO's driving before I got the JKU, and they seemed to have been mostly beach areas. Then I made it worse, even as careful as I usually am. Same driving with the PS one & it just lost a little paint.

rumor has it that AEV copied Rubicon Express which is kind of funny because AEV does not like anyone copying them

Yeah, and if you believe that rumor, I have a bridge to sell you...


When I bought my AEV brackets, no one else had them on the market. There was one option for them only, and that was AEV. Others started showing up for sale a few years later.

 

[jadmt]

I ain’t lying. RE had geo brackets long before jk’s were even out. I have visited with the owner of aev many times and I drive by his r&d shop nearly every day. Check the date on instructions.
Yucca-Man: Rubicon Express RE9900 Drop Brackets

 

[jetlau3]

I went the other way. I installed adjustable lower arms to fix the almost DW magnitude caster shimmy I was getting. Worked great! But the ride on road where I spent 99% of the time was significantly harsher. This is because of the angle of the arms and the fact they had johnny joints at both ends rather than rubber bushes.


After a few months & bought some AEV geo-brackets, (they were the only ones that were on the market at the time), and put the OEM lower arms back in. Ride was much improved, & while they have scraped a few times, I haven't been rough enough on them to cause any damage*. My lower back & 2 dodgy disks greatly approved!


I have them on the setting for the lowest change in angle as I only have a ~2" lift, but no shimmy & ride is great. The lower arms are now horizontal so there is none of the transfer of vertical momentum when I hit bumps that I got with the adjustable LCAs.




*The transmission crossmember, is a whole other story. That cardboard item got replaced with a heavy duty PS one, since it was bent & buckled from the PO's driving before I got the JKU, and they seemed to have been mostly beach areas. Then I made it worse, even as careful as I usually am. Same driving with the PS one & it just lost a little paint.







Yeah, and if you believe that rumor, I have a bridge to sell you...


When I bought my AEV brackets, no one else had them on the market. There was one option for them only, and that was AEV. Others started showing up for sale a few years later.

Makes sense for a 2” lift and east coast non rocks wheeling . Out here in Cali almost no one in my club runs them . In fact most go with rockstars evo mounts to move the shocks up 1.5” in the rear. At 3.5” of lift, my front lower control arm mounts which I’ve skidded up are pretty beat up

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[JTPhoto JK]

I ain’t lying. RE had geo brackets long before jk’s were even out. I have visited with the owner of aev many times and I drive by his r&d shop nearly every day. Check the date on instructions.
Yucca-Man: Rubicon Express RE9900 Drop Brackets

They just didnt have Geo brackets for the JK before AEV is all I'm sayin'.

 

[Muffin Top]

I'm stock now and I only scraped my skid two or three times on my last Moab trip which is why I'm only adding a 2 inch lift.

I think the consensus view is that geo brackets require 2" bumpstop extension (at least JKS admits to this), so you won't be gaining any uptravel if using brackets

 

[Nemo Consequentae]

I ain’t lying. RE had geo brackets long before jk’s were even out. I have visited with the owner of aev many times and I drive by his r&d shop nearly every day. Check the date on instructions.
Yucca-Man: Rubicon Express RE9900 Drop Brackets

They may have had them, but they didn't have them available on the market, that I saw. Which means either they had them, but just not for the JK, or their marketing really sucked because they didn't have them visibly for sale anywhere online.

Makes sense for a 2” lift and east coast non rocks wheeling . Out here in Cali almost no one in my club runs them . In fact most go with rockstars evo mounts to move the shocks up 1.5” in the rear. At 3.5” of lift, my front lower control arm mounts which I’ve skidded up are pretty beat up

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I'm on the east coast all right, but the east coast of a completely different continent & live in the mountains. While we don't have many boulder fields like that pic, some of the trails are still as rough.