Personally, I would not buy a JL. I have a 2013 JK that I wrench on myself.

Jeeps have never been known for reliability, but if you can fix stuff yourself it is tolerable. Do you have any Pics of this Jeep? Pics always help.

Do you know, or can you get a mechanic to fully check it out before you buy? That may help find some stuff you may miss.

Was it wheeled hard or just used to crawl at the mall? Crawl underneath and look to see scrapes, etc...

Good luck, and come back to let us know what you picked.

 

That's where I'm at I prefer to wrench on my own stuff now days. The newer jeeps look good but have corrosion issues and software issues. Plus if the motor ever goes I think the JK market has more options even though I would put a 3.6 back in.

Im not sure if this jeep has been wheeled hard or not, it's a 2013 with less than 40k miles 2 owners which has me sketched out. It's about a hour and a half from me I'm waiting on some pictures underneath before driving out. I'll probably pay for a quick PPI from a local mechanic there.

The AEV stuff I could take it or leave it, from my understanding the shop has a good reputation, not sure if this adds value or not. I'd like to change out the plastic fenders eventually.

Heres the link let me know what you think. EM Quality Motors

 

JK's are going to be easier to service and repair long term. Nearly 75% of the parts 2007-2018 stay the same, and 2012-2018.5 JK's are 90% the same, many years of the same parts makes parts availability much better compared to the MANY variations in the JL platform. With that, the JL is much more complex electrically using a STAR based system, where the JK uses a more simple CANBUS computer system.

 

Thank you Wolfslash16 for that insight on the parts I'm pretty sure I know my answer now stick with the JK.

 

I'll be the jerk. I have a 2012 JK and a 2022 JL 392. As much as I love my JK (and loved my TJ) and think of a Jeep as a 2 door without all that extra stuff....I prefer the JL. As background I bought my 2012 without a single option aside from AC. It didn't even have power. We built 90% of it to a bad a** rock crawler and I wheeled it for a good 5 years. I made fun of 4 door JKUs as "busses" and not real Jeeps. Then I drove a JL and realized I had to shut my trap. The horsepower on my 392 aside the transmission on JLs is significantly better, the ride is better and some of that extra "stuff" really makes it a better daily driver. And weekend dirt rig. Do you need heated seats? Absolutely not. Is having your bum nice and toasty on a winter day nice? Yup. Have you driven a JL?
If you asked this same question in early 2012 or 2013 when I bought my JK- this forum was littered with how AWFUL the JK was. It was the end of Jeeps as we know it. The 2012 left-head issue/ and the Pentastar was the signal of the end. Jeep added too many "gadgets" and the world was crashing down. It's important to realize that more and more people are on the internet and on forums. Look at how many people join forums TO complain or solve an issue never to be seen again. One person might post the same problem in multiple forums. More people own Jeeps and JLs than ever before. The JL isn't perfect and I do agree the JK is easier to wrench but I think the internet skews perception of just how "good" prior models were.
My JK had the head problem. My 392 had the transfer case problem. And corrosion has been an issue on every Jeep ever built.
It's Jeep thing. And I deal with it because I just love Jeeps.
(and before you ask- the left head issue was limited to the first 6 mos. of production in 2012. If you're really worried the engine build code is on the door and/or you can pull it by VIN)
That is a nice rig though.

 

I'm passing on this JK but I'm on the hunt for one still, this one looks good but the frame is rusted out and they spray painted all over it. For 30k miles and AEV I would expect it to be pretty mint and at 25k.

 

Probably a good idea to skip that one. I prefer a used vehicle not come from a state that salts it's roads or one that is on the ocean.

Looking at the carfax I see the AEV Jeep was owned in Illinois (salted winter roads) and Florida (salty air / ocean).
I contemplated buying a Jeep (identical to mine) while visiting Florida a couple years ago, it had rust all over it.

The Jeep I bought was a 1 owner vehicle out of Texas.

 

You may want to look for a stock, unmodified Jeep. You might not like the mods a previous owner has done and it can get very expensive fixing someone else’s mistakes.

 

Go with a stock JK. 18 and the least amount of miles, Doesn't mean 13's for example will be a no-no, but 18's are still within 6-7 years old so parts are fresher. They'll have better prices than JL's. simpler electronics, huge aftermarket that is not going anywhere, everybody knows JK's anywhere you go, less problems down the road with a pletora of things. My friend bought a 21 JLU Sport this year and i'm getting to mod it and know JL's without having one , I like that idea because eventually in 2028 i won't be able to say get a JK as now they'll be 10 years old and will have possible a bunch of miles. I like to buy used vehicles that are 2-3 years old than current newest model cause i'm not paying stupid MSRP, vehicle is broken -in already, and because i like going with low mileage i get to enjoy manfufacturer warranty without paying extras.

I picked my 18 JKU Sport S in 2021, had 30k miles, now has 67K miles or so. Zero issues and nothing but darn joy and mods so far.

Regarding the 21 JL, i've been at my friends house for the past 2 weeks giving that Jeep a jump start. Now i'm aware of the stupid issues among others with the aux battery on the new Jeeps and i know how to bypass it. This JL has Fox 2.5 Performance Elite shocks, 1.5" lift, Method 17x9 with GY Territory in 315/70/17, 2.0T engine and 8 speed trans. I like this combo and in a future i wont be opposed to having a JL eventually, but that time is 100% not now. Not happy for example with having to pony up $2500-$3000 for underbelly skids, and the factory ones on the JL suck just like they did in the JK's with the exception of the TC skid, so most of the aftermarket dudes think you will want to spend that kind of money on the full on skids. There are only 2 companies that offer them individually for the JL, you can piece what you want out of the JK aftermarket , JK's don't have alum knucles that break granted you get the good ones with the JL Rubi, but you get the chitty ones with every other model. I could go on and on, JK for the win for now. Eventually they'll get too old like TJ or older Jeeps did. Until then enjoy what a JK can offer.

 

If I was looking again and wanted something ready to go, I would look for a 2018 Recon. Better front axle and the most recent versions of all parts.

 

2015 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon for sale in Anderson, SC - CARFAX

Make a more informed buying decision at CARFAX by first viewing vehicle history on this 2015 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon.

www.carfax.com

Considering buying this one, no rust CA rig has some small stuff wrong. 24k

 

Pics didn't work for me.

I contemplate trading in my 2019 Ford F150 for a Gladiator Rubicon every so often. I went and looked at a used Gladiator this past Sunday. While it had a nice set of 37 inch MT's on it, the steering components, and cheap Rough Country suspension lift were rusty. Which I find kind of scary for a what is at most a 5 year old vehicle.

I figure any used vehicle is going to required additional maintenance. Also I wouldn't pass up a low mileage Jeep that is already lifted. Unless it has a gold Metal Cloak lift on it, I would plan to change the lift to which ever lift I wanted on it.

 

if was spending money on a trail jeep it would be a built tj for 25k. Found one in Utah that had a lot done been a trail jeep 100% all its life and has 40 k miles..But a life on the rocks.. on 4.0 has supercharger. Comp cut stretched to 112" WB. on 40s that are Trepador sticky comp( those cost $1300 each) d60s ARB rear is triangulated 4 link, front is three. full hydro. doubler tcase. Coilovers etc etc....Thing looks very clean.

Dont need a jeep for street. would rather drive a full size truck myself or if a SUV the wifes 4x4 Excursion 7.3TD is the king of the SUVs. Back when they had 1 ton axles 4x4. full frame and a V8 TD that was a real legend. 7.3 going 300k is nothing really. wifes has near 270k on the 7.3 Never needed anything other then normal stuff. No rockers failing/ head issues or overheating etc....

our 12JKR has been a trail jeep all its life as well, no one will want it. Has top end parts but has ran so many rock trails in its 12+ years. all over AZ, cali and Utah. Things has ran laps on Rubicon with 9 runs now and that trail is 740 miles away. Has Rock rash all over it. worst is under it really. Rock wears metal. I wonder what my junk is worth? Only has 41k miles as well. I bet maybe 10k if that. But for the many hundreds of trails its ran. Was worth it really.

Jeep is for this, been jeeping since 1975. Wentworth, Rubicon, not many go in this way today. They think the trail starts at loon. Long ago Loon was the escape trail, so you did not have to run the whole trail to toms. Paved today most of it.

 

Yeah I was actually going to buy that 15 rubicon that afternoon for 24k it was clean had some small issues with evap system and gas cap. Nothing that couldn't be fixed, but I had to step out for my kids practice for 2 hours. Came back and they had someone sitting there buying it, they probably had them at a higher price then what I would have paid.

Im still on the hunt for one, it's not going to be my DD just a fun weekend warrior or grocery getter TBH. I might wheel it if given the opportunity on some light trails.

Im looking at cheaper Rubicon Recons now I'd prefer stock, this way I can know what's been done.

Funny you mention EX I sold my 2005 6.0 earlier this year and kicking my tail cause of it. It was mint frame no rust clean interior, but I was scared of 6.0 things and it was lifted 6inches just was really impractical for my use case. I still look everyday for a 7.3 but I'm not paying 30k for rusted rockers with 280k miles

 

My check engine light is on right for a evap code / leak. It's a pretty common thing for Jeeps. Pretty much everyone I know that owns a JK has their check engine light on for that code.
You can ignore solid check engine lights. While Missouri does have vehicle inspections, they don't do emissions. Plus you can turn off the CE light using a programmer right before the inspection. It's not worth getting it fixed.

 

Yeah I'm in SC they don't inspect anything here, you can do whatever you want as long as it's not some stupid squatted truck